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Jakarta

Ambitious and cosmopolitan, Indonesia’s capital is a city that surprises. Gridlocked streets give way to leafy enclaves brimming with understated luxury, where craft, music and culture all thrive.
Light Rail Transit (LRT) construction in Kuningan area of Jakarta.

Jakarta is a loud, relentless and impatient city. The sprawl, the traffic and the weather can be daunting but those who find their way around uncover a metropolis in motion.

In quieter parts of Jakarta, the largest city on the main island of Java, some people still live the way all Jakartans used to: conversations happen over afternoon tea and to the soundtrack of slow-turning ceiling fans. Time runs unhurriedly. Elsewhere, a new generation is turning crumbling corners into creative spaces, reinventing classic Javanese cuisine and rediscovering the archipelago’s ancient drinking culture. Boozy evenings start over dinner in old colonial-era mansions and stretch into the early hours at grown-up, often smoke-filled cocktail bars and late-night drinking dens. I’ll take a simple iced kopyor, please.

Jakarta is not the easiest city to love but for those who get it, it’s electric.

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