Neighbourhoods
Kamo River
Explore the expansive Kyoto Imperial Palace gardens before making your way to Seikosha Books, a beautifully curated bookshop east of the palace. Pick up some titles to browse over coffee at the nearby Kamogawa Café or peruse the art at Kojin Kyoto before wandering down to the Kamo River. The river’s calming presence is woven into city life: it hosted the first kabuki performances, Kyo-yuzen textiles were once washed in its waters and its stones are crushed to glaze kuro-raku tea bowls. Venture north to the stepping stones at Kojin and Kyoto Prefectural University of Medicine – one of Japan’s oldest – before reaching the Kamogawa Delta, a popular hangout spot for students from the nearby Kyoto and Doshisha universities.
Just off the west bank you’ll come across the Demachi Shotengai and saba-zushi (mackerel sushi) favourite Masugata-ya, while the east bank is home to a number of historic sites. There’s the well-preserved Old Mitsui Family Shimogamo Villa, dating back to the Meiji period, as well as the 2000-year-old Shimogamo Shrine, its main approach leading through the Tadasu-no-Mori Forest. Wrap up your walk with some sweet mitarashi dango from Kamo Mitarashi Chaya, the teahouse believed to have created the beloved dessert.
Shinmonzen & Okazaki
Start your journey at the Shijo Bridge, passing the statue of Izumo no Okuni – the entertainer credited with creating kabuki theatre – and head north to Shinmonzen-dori. Known for its art and antiques, the street is home to Nonaka-Hill and other galleries; Yoshioka, a natural textile dyer with five generations of history; and The Shinmonzen, a Tadao Ando-designed hotel with an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works. On the ground floor, you’ll find a tea shop by Ogata. More art can be found nearby: Sokyo presents contemporary ceramics and crafts, while Shibunkaku specialises in Japanese fine art.
Continue your walk along the Shirakawa Canal, lined with weeping cherry trees and old machiya (townhouses). The newly opened Com-ion complex, with a café-cum-shop, an all-day restaurant and a ceramic studio, provides the perfect spot for a break. Just around the corner is the leading Kyoto-based, Nordic-leaning restaurant Lurra. Wander on towards Essence Kyoto, where craft wares and original teas are on offer. Just across the road, the Okazaki Park area features a cluster of cultural institutions. The National Museum of Modern Art Kyoto and Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art are among those shining a light on the past, present and future of the city’s arts and crafts.
Murasakino & Nishijin
Imamiya Shrine, known for warding off illness, marks the start of your walk through the inner-northern neighbourhoods of Murasakino and Nishijin. Pick up some snacks at the nearby Kazariya, an aburi-mochi stand since 1637, then follow Imamiya Street past Donoma pottery studio to the 23-hectare Daitokuji temple complex. Founded in 1319, the temple played a central role in the development of Japanese tea culture through its association with tea master Sen-no-Rikyu. Among the many subtemples, the dry gardens of Daisen-in and the bonsai of Hoshun-in are worth a stop.
Venturing south from Daitokuji, you’ll find some charming shops scattered throughout the streets of Nishijin. Pop into Lifetime for gardening gear and Kamisoe for printed paper goods, before taking a relaxing break at Funaoka Onsen. The heritage-listed bathhouse dates back more than a century and retains its retro charm. And no visit to Nishijin would be complete without its renowned textiles, so make a stop at Orinasukan. Dedicated to Edo-period handwoven textiles, the small museum honours the area’s craft heritage. Complete your journey with a meal: Tenki is renowned for its tempura and kaiseki cuisine, and if you’re looking for a bowl of ramen, try Nabura or Rennosuke.
