Bars and restaurants
Canalha, Ajuda
After more than a decade in fine dining and nomadic projects exploring Portugal’s diverse culinary traditions, chef João Rodrigues opened Canalha as a tribute to the country’s rich produce and culinary heritage. His vision? To revive the classic neighbourhood restaurant – the sort of unpretentious, family-run restaurant that has been disappearing from Lisbon’s streets. The menu is refreshingly democratic: fresh fish, meat and seafood that can be grilled, sautéed or cooked to the customer’s preference, accompanied by traditional sides. To start, there are more inventive small plates for sharing, such as squid in sheep’s milk butter, adding creativity to a nostalgic dining experience.
Gambrinus, Baixa de Lisboa
Since 1936, Gambrinus has offered visitors a quiet, polished perch to indulge in authentic Portuguese food amid the hustle and bustle of central Lisbon. Sumptuous seafood platters are served within wood-panelled rooms but for those seeking a quicker meal, a seat at the bar is highly coveted; order the famed croquettes.
Pinóquio, Baixa de Lisboa
Shaded by green-and-white umbrellas, Pinóquio’s ample terrace has occupied a corner of Lisbon’s hectic Praça dos Restauradores since 1982. Lunch is always busy but the turnover is surprisingly fast. The pica-pau – diced meat sautéed with plenty of garlic – is one of the house’s specialities – and deservedly so. It can be shared as a starter.
Café de São Bento, São Bento
Café de São Bento belongs to a special strain of Lisbon: establishments known for their discretion. Away from prying eyes lie dimly lit wood-panelled interiors and a world of late-night dining. The centrepiece of this restaurant’s menu is the bife à Café de São Bento, a succulent sirloin accompanied by hand-cut fries reputed to be the best in town. The restaurant is close to Portugal’s parliament, so politicians are not an uncommon sight at lunch. But come dinner, served until 01.00, the MPs are replaced by a well-dressed crowd on dates or darting in for food after a trip to the theatre.
Santa Joana, Pena
Santa Joana is the flagship restaurant of Locke de Santa Joana hotel. Led by acclaimed Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes – known for his work at Chiltern Firehouse and Viajante in London, as well as several projects in his home country – the restaurant is housed in a magnificently restored former convent. Portuguese designers and artisans were invited to decorate the bright and ample interiors, giving the elegant setting a playful twist. The menu reflects contemporary Lisbon: eclectic, dynamic and deeply connected to its past. While most of the produce is proudly Portuguese, inspiration comes from far and wide. Expect mouthwatering dishes to share, including a whole section on raw food, with fish and beef tartares, oysters from the Sado river and Algarve shrimp.
A Taberna do Mar, Graça
This 23-seat, no-frills spot is known for its ever-changing menu of creative small bites – think tempura-dusted choco frito (fried cuttlefish) and the house speciality, sardine nigiri, a playful nod to Portugal’s beloved fish. For those looking to explore a wider range of flavours, the restaurant offers an affordable tasting menu.
Da Noi, Madragoa
This neighbourhood restaurant might be small but it is always lively. The boisterous atmosphere often spills onto the street, where guests gather by the entrance, drinks in hand, while waiting for a table. Beyond the convivial setting, Da Noi’s draw is the modern Mediterranean-inspired menu, which highlights Portugal’s freshest produce in dishes such as lobster rolls, white bean cacio pepe and scallop carpaccio.
Prado, Baixa de Lisboa
Rumour has it that the idea behind Prado’s design came from the building itself. When head chef and owner António Galapito first came to see the premises – formerly an abandoned factory – plants had wrapped themselves around the pulley system and were hanging from the ceiling. Today the chef hopes that the restaurant continues to be a verdant inner-city enclave. Expect a leafy setting and farm-to-table dishes focused on seasonal produce.
Procópio, Amoreiras
Tucked away in a hidden alley off Amoreiras Garden, Procópio is a time capsule. Step into its dimly lit, bric-a-brac-filled interior, and – helped by a few cocktails – you might easily lose track of the time, or even the decade. Opened in 1972 by Luís Pinto Coelho, a visionary entrepreneur who shaped Lisbon’s nightlife with his eccentric, character-filled bars, Procópio remains a family-run institution. Like any good family affair, it’s a place of traditions where guests are more likely to be deep in conversation than glued to their phones.
Liquid Love, Pena
After honing their craft in bars from London to Sydney, Cheila Tavares and Semi M’Zoughi opened Liquid Love in 2022. Inspired by 1980s Milanese bars, the interiors feature warm terracotta tones and arched ceilings, with a terrazzo counter at the centre. While the food is Italian-inspired bites (think focaccia sandwiches and salami boards), the duo’s diverse heritage – Portuguese, Cape Verdean, Angolan, Italian and Tunisian – shines through in their cocktails. Signature drinks include I Mille, a mix of Campari, clementine juice and Cape Verdean grog; and A Night in Tunisia, featuring tequila infused with Tunisian ras el hanout.
