Neighbourhoods

Three verdant spaces that represent the city’s diverse character.

Estrela
A quiet quarter with a host of independent cafés
Named after the lush garden at its heart, Estrela is one of Lisbon’s more tranquil historic districts. Perched atop one of the city’s eastern hills and just a short distance from the bustling centre, Estrela remains a haven of local life. It’s no surprise that many expats have chosen to settle here. Start off with coffee and a pastry at the counter of Boutique Doce, a tiny pastry shop that has been serving this area for more than 20 years. Then, head to the Jardim de Estrela. Depending on the time of day, you might find joggers, people sunbathing, children at play or locals enjoying a beer at one of the two kiosks. After a leisurely stroll through the tropical greenery, climb the Estrela basilica’s stairs for breathtaking city views.

Houses in the Estrela district in Lisbon, with the view of the river Tagus in the horizon

For lunch, Chef is a beloved deli with a daily rotating selection of homemade food. If you prefer to order from a menu, Keffi, serves tasty Greek cuisine and offers the rare luxury of a late lunch. Nearby, Madragoa showcases contemporary art in an intimate setting, while Jahn und Jahn gallery exhibits international artists such as Georg Baselitz, Gerhard Richter, Per Kirkeby and Fred Sandback in a restored historic building. For an excellent selection of natural wines, visit Pinot, before heading to dinner at Senhor Uva, which offers creative vegetarian dishes in a warm, inviting space. Alternatively, leave the neighbourhood by walking down Rua de São Bento to browse antique shops and end the night with a lively meal at Bar Alimentar.

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Avenidas Novas
Modernity meets history with a mix of smart retail and fresh restaurants
Avenidas Novas represents Lisbon’s leap into modernity at the turn of the 20th century. Designed as an elegant extension to the old city, its wide avenues, grand townhouses and leafy boulevards were inspired by the great European capitals. Start your day at Linha d’Água, a serene café hidden behind the Amália Rodrigues Garden, where you can sip coffee by the reflecting pool. From there, head down to El Corte Inglés, Lisbon’s premier department store. Skip the upper floors and head straight to the supermarket in the basement, which boasts aged São Jorge cheese, rich port and artisanal canned fish in beautifully designed tins.

For a dose of print, stop by Under the Cover, where you can pick up an independent magazine before heading to the Gulbenkian Garden. Here, among lush greenery and tranquil ponds, find a quiet spot to flip through your new read or take in the collection inside. For lunch, visit Cacué, a simple establishment serving Portuguese comfort food, or head to Go Juu, an intimate Japanese restaurant that operates like a private members’ club from Thursday to Saturday evenings.

Under the Cover shop Lisbon — Under The Cover

After lunch, check out the programme at Culturgest, an institution focused on visual and performing arts, music and cinema. Wander over to the recently opened Good Company Books, a thoughtfully curated bookshop where you can browse English-language titles or unwind with a coffee or wine at the bar. If the weather is pleasant and you rather stay outside, enjoy an imperial at Galveias Quiosque, a hidden spot in a peaceful courtyard sheltered from the busy streets. Finally, wrap up your day at Galetto, a Lisbon institution where you can indulge in perfectly roasted, crispy-skinned chicken.

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Príncipe Real
A leafy enclave with art at its heart
Príncipe Real is one of Lisbon’s most charming neighbourhoods. Independent retailers and restaurants have breathed new life into its grand 19th-century buildings while preserving its quaint atmosphere of hidden alleyways and leafy gardens. Start your day by strolling along Rua da Escola Politécnica, the main shopping street. Stop by Embaixada, a stunning neo-Arabesque palace housing several Portuguese brands, before visiting Bernardo Atelier, a concept shop filled with stylish womenswear and home decor.

For a caffeine fix, Betina Corallo serves some of the best coffee and chocolate in town, made with cacao sourced from São Tomé and Príncipe. Then, take a break under the majestic cedar tree at Príncipe Real Garden, the perfect spot to soak in local life or get a ticket to tour the Botanical Gardens, a hidden oasis with an impressive cactus garden. If you’re in the mood for art, head to ArtRoom, a small but dynamic gallery showcasing local creatives. For lunch, head to Praça das Flores, a tranquil square where both Magnolia and Café Tehran offer excellent options overlooking the garden. Wander the surrounding streets, stopping at Odile Collective for beautifully crafted womenswear or Flores Textile Studio, an interior-design brand specializing in beautiful throws and pillows. O Palmeiral’s spacious, sun-dappled terrace is an ideal spot for a pre-dinner drink as the sun sets.