Bars and restaurants
A Wong, Pimlico
The first and only Chinese restaurant outside of Asia to have been awarded two Michelin stars, A Wong introduces the uninitiated to heightened interpretations of familiar classics. A three-hour tasting menu explores multiple regions of China but less theatrically inclined diners can also pop in for à la carte dim-sum. Order xiao long bao dumplings with soup and black vinegar, siu mai with pork crackling. For dessert? A steamed duck-yolk custard bun.
The Arlington, St. James’s
Regal restaurateur Jeremy King returned in 2024 with a new restaurant exactly where his old one sat – down a lane in the shadow of The Ritz. Le Caprice is dead. Long live the Arlington. This sequel with nostalgia for the 1980s original is all monochrome shimmy between the mirrored bar and the black-and-white David Bailey portraits; plus an easy transatlantic menu of dressed crab, steak tartare, rib-eye and lobster Thermidor soufflé.
The Dover, Mayfair
Martin Kuczmarski’s instant-classic Mayfair joint is a low-lit, sultry favourite for Italian American classics and cocktails. Behind the heavy velvet curtains is a blur of bartenders overseeing the slender bar, booths and walnut-lined dining room that’s all swoops and curves by Milanese architects Quincoces-Dragó. Come for the zucchini fritti, spaghetti meatballs, hamburgers and beef arrosto. Stay for the Dover Martini.
Mount Street Restaurant, Mayfair
This charmingly restored Edwardian pile was built in 1888 by the man who designed the pavilion at Lord’s Cricket Ground. The place was redone by Artfarm, the hospitality arm of Hauser & Wirth. Mount Street Restaurant (upstairs) and The Audley (a ground-floor pub) has a collection of painting to rival the nearby galleries of Cork Street and service down to a fine art. There are also four private rooms for hire.
Kol, Marylebone
Chef Santiago Lastra’s menu is full of the sort of surprises and unexpected combinations that made it the UK’s first Michelin-starred Mexican restaurant. Scallop, horseradish, lovage and sea lettuce ceviche followed by a dessert of Tunworth cheese ice cream, sea buckthorn and ancho chilli, anyone? It’s not as tricksy as it sounds. For those wanting a more casual bite, try the restaurant’s Mezcaleria for a wagyu tostada and the house twist on a mezcal sour.
The River Café, Hammersmith
Co-founded by the late Rose Gray and the inimitable Ruthie Rogers, the latter of whom still runs it, this classic started more than 30 years ago as an office canteen for Rogers’ late architect husband, Richard Rogers. Today, diners still spill out onto the outdoor terrace to enjoy menu staples such as chargrilled squid with chilli and wild rocket. For pudding, don’t forget to order the chocolate nemesis cake.
Brawn, Columbia Road
Central London’s destination restaurants are under siege from low-key reliable neighbourhood numbers. One charming East London favourite is Brawn: Ed Wilson and Josie Stead’s quaint two-room restaurant on the fringes of Columbia Road (closed Sundays when the flower market takes over the Victorian parade). Sometime options on the ever-changing daily menu include: pappardelle smothered in an unctuous pork-and-fennel ragu; the velvety burrata with courgette, basil and hazelnut; and the Cantabrian anchovies. Best of all? No arduous “concept” in sight.
Camille, Borough
Clare Lattin and Tom Hill’s French bistro is a good base from which to explore Borough Market or to visit in its own right. The UK restaurateurs (behind Soho’s Ducksoup and Dalston’s Little Duck) know about creating Anglo-French fare that people flock to. In unconventional French-bistro style, diners are encouraged to share (share!?) a seasonal selection of (not-so) “small plates” from helpings of crab toast accompanied by nutty pied de mouton mushrooms and a polished potato pavé with a concertinaed, accordion-like profile.
Brutto, Farringdon
The late Russell Norman’s Tuscan-inspired restaurant’s name may mean “ugly” but his creation is a beautiful thing indeed. Not enough people appreciate the importance of haphazardness in Italian cuisine, you see. Here, the fluffy coccoli (a deep-fried dough dumpling) are served with a mound of prosciutto crudo and a slobbery pool of melted stracchino cheese. On the menu, the penne alla vodka is a kitsch blast from the 1980s and, like the red chequered tablecloths, plays with the chaotic flavours and fun of Italy – as opposed to the neater, simpler narrative.
Rochelle Canteen, Shoreditch
Hidden within the Victorian walls of a converted school just off Arnold Circus (itself of interest for being London’s first social-housing project, completed in 1896), the spot is tricky to locate but once buzzed through its secluded courtyard offers a laid-back retreat from the busy East End. Kiwi chef Margot Henderson’s menu changes daily as the team favours market fresh ingredients and experiments with new recipes – usually executed with a simple French elegance.
