Neighbourhoods
Collingwood
This former light-industry hub is now the locus of Melbourne’s creative sector.
Collingwood is best defined by Smith Street. If the major artery is doing well, the neighbourhood will be too – and at the moment, Smith Street is thriving. Start your visit in the morning on the street’s southern end with a bagel at Masses. This will also put you close to three of the area’s retail standouts: Double Monk shoe shop, womenswear designer E Nolan and The Searchers, which sells new and vintage records. Wandering down Smith Street will take you past (or near) a number of excellent eating and drinking options. Depending on the time of day, Smith Street Alimentari, Shop Ramen, Above Board and Terror Twilight all deserve a visit.
Turn right at Johnston Street and keep going until you spot the Keith Haring mural next to legendary live-music venue The Tote. Then make sure that you enter the Collingwood Yards precinct, which includes gems such as Stefanino Panino e Vino, Dua Bakehouse and Hope Street Radio. Explore Collingwood’s backstreets, where you will find everything from remixed Aussie pub Goldy’s and craft brewery Molly Rose to revered cafés such as Proud Mary and Cibi.
Carlton North and Brunswick East
These two adjoining suburbs were once the quiet counterparts to Carlton and Brunswick. Now they’re the main event.
Hop off the tram in Carlton and head to Rathdowne Street, where you’ll find Bar Bellamy and its neighbour, Melitta Next Door. After, head for the leafy streets of Carlton North and Rathdowne Street Village. There are a number of quaint businesses in this area but the best of the bunch is Florian, which has a real case for being the best café in Melbourne. And make sure to check out Florian Home, its sibling retail space. You could venture up Rathdowne Street to stop by tiny viennoiserie Crescent or The Great Northern Hotel, a classic large-scale Melbourne pub, and it’s also worth crossing over to Lygon Street to visit local icon Gerald’s Bar.
Continue up Lygon Street where you’ll cross into Brunswick East, which in recent years has become one of the most exciting dining strips in town. For a drink, look no further than Waxflower or the perennially packed Bahama Gold. To eat, your dilemma will be between neighbourhood diner Etta or its newer, more casual offshoot Daphne.
North Melbourne
What was once one of inner Melbourne’s most neglected suburbs is now one of its most engaging, with a clutch of new operators joining established favourites.
It’s strange to think that North Melbourne never used to be cool. Before you make your way there, stop by the Queen Victoria Market (). While you wander its halls, grab some jam doughnuts – a Melbourne classic – from American Doughnut Kitchen, which has been at the market since 1950. Then saunter up to North Melbourne via Victoria Street. You’ll likely be waylaid by the excellent food options on the way, such as Sanhe Congee, Udom House, 279 and Kare Curry. Local craft-beer hall Benchwarmer does a roaring trade and its izakaya-style menu is worth spending some time with but save some room for what’s to come on Errol Street.
The suburb’s main drag has never quite taken off in the same way as its correlates in other neighbourhoods but that’s changing. There is intriguing retail, such as an outpost of Melbourne-born Aesop, as well as a fast-growing collection of excellent restaurants. Mauritian diner Manzé and its wine-bar sibling Boire are chief among them. Plenty more options abound nearby, from classic cafés such as Auction Rooms to new-school wine bars and bakeries, including Whitebark and Bread Club.
