Bars and restaurants

Plonk, Cuauhtémoc
Plonk’s terrace off Avenida Amsterdam is always inviting. Chef Flor Camorlinga’s menu is compact, creative. Opt for a glass from the extensive wine list and pair it with Camorlinga’s standout udon dish.
Ultramarinos Demar, Cuauhtémoc
The old-school service – white jackets and all – is offset by playful, modern dishes and a lively, unpretentious mood. The confident blend of tradition and creativity makes this a firm favourite with in-the-know chilangos and stylish out-of-towners.


Cicatriz Café, Juárez
A fun-loving natural-wine bar in Juárez. Don’t come for a quiet evening: expect packed tables, bold flavours and crowds spilling into the square. The interior is the perfect combination of cool and warm accents, and the kitchen doesn’t take itself too seriously.

Xel-Há Bar, Condesa
A no-frills cantina in Condesa with a big heart and even bigger flavours. Go for the Yucatán staples: cochinita pibil and sopa de lima.
Marea, Condesa
For some serious seafood in a sleek setting near Chapultepec, Marea delivers. Don’t miss the house esquites – they’ll change how you think about corn. It’s all elegantly plated, impeccably fresh and far from fussy.
Rosetta, Roma
Elena Reygadas’ Rosetta is a must. The Italianate house, flower-strewn plates and reverent but convivial mood lend this restaurant a timeless charm rarely found elsewhere. It’s the kind of place that makes every meal feel consequential, no matter the occasion.

San Angel Inn, Álvaro Obregón
An old-world estate in the city’s south, San Angel Inn serves classic Mexican fare with quiet grandeur. Sip a margarita in the courtyard among capital notables. There’s also plenty of historic charm, from the tiled fountains and the white-linen service to its genteel afternoon hum.
Covadonga, Cuauhtémoc
A thrum of dominoes, debate and draft beer defines this classic Roma cantina. It’s chaotic, convivial and faithful to its roots. The tortilla española is always worth ordering.
Casa del Fuego, Cuauhtémoc
Tiny but mighty, Casa del Fuego serves excellent breakfasts and Mexican coffee with Japanese-style precision. The baristas know their stuff, the food is generous yet nourishing and the mood is relaxed.
Café Avellaneda, Coyoacán
Still among the best in Coyoacán, this early pioneer of Mexico City’s speciality coffee scene offers top brews in a tucked-away spot off the main square. Seating is limited but that’s part of the charm. This hole-in-the-wall is ideal for a quick refuel before strolling the cobblestone streets nearby.