Bars & Restaurants
Il Sorpasso, Prati
Romans travel across town to eat artisan cheese and prosciutto from Sorpasso’s charcuterie room but there’s more to enjoy: coffee and pastries at the bar in the morning, cocktails at night and a small daily menu in the buzzy dining room. The serious action, however, takes place on the street, where regulars double-park their scooters and congregate over glasses of bio falanghina and trappizini (toasted sandwiches made from pizza dough). To add to the party atmosphere, staff wearing T-shirts declaring “Life is too short to drink cheap wine” hand out aperitivi from large platters.
Drink Kong, Monti
Named after cinema’s most famous gorilla and inspired by 1980s Japanese and Italian pop culture, Drink Kong has become a fixture of Rome’s nightlife. Founder Patrick Pistolesi is serious about cocktails and his efforts have earned global recognition. In 2023, he opened Nite Kong, a stylish nightclub featuring a bespoke bar by London’s Tayēr + Elementary and Norwegian studio Behind Bars. Expect inventive drinks, a buzzing crowd and a space where design and cocktails go hand in hand.
Ristorante Nino, Piazza di Spagna (Centro)
Deciding where to eat in Rome can be difficult. If you want a white-tablecloth ristorante experience, head to Nino just off the Piazza di Spagna. The dark mahogany and etched-glass panels transport you back to when the restaurant opened in the 1930s. Just make sure not to wear shorts, T-shirts or flip flops. Sophia Loren, Michelangelo Antonioni, Anna Magnani and Audrey Hepburn were all past diners. Today the people-watching at Nino’s is excellent, with coiffured signori abound.
Il Vinaietto, Campo de’ Fiori (Centro)
This winery between Largo di Torre Argentina and Campo de’ Fiori has been a local institution for more than 25 years. Occupying a former vini e oli shop – the Roman precursor to the convenience store – Il Vinaietto oozes with effortless charm. What the place lacks in size, it makes up for in its excellent wine selection and cosy atmosphere. The small main room next to the bar has floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with dozens of bottles. You can try a glass before you buy and stand outside to enjoy your tipple, where chatter fills the evening air.
Via del Monte della Farina, 38
Pianostrada, Trastevere
The remarkably hospitable women who run this lauded restaurant will ply you with wine and house-made potato crisps on the street while you wait for one of their prized barstools. Chiara Magliocchetti and Paola Colucci held corporate jobs before opening their “laboratorio di cucina” in 2014 with Colucci’s daughters, Flaminia and Alice. A handwritten menu papers the wall, while chefs turn out reimagined street food from the open kitchen, including burrata with mint and dried tomatoes on focaccia and “il baccaburger” – a squid-ink panino with baccalà.
Ristorante Salumeria Roscioli, Campo de’ Fiori (Centro)
Brothers Alessandro and Pierluigi Roscioli turned their grocery shop into a deli-cum-restaurant in 2002. Their establishment offers hundreds of cured meats and cheeses, along with some of Rome’s best pastas. Getting a table can be challenging but all is forgiven once the food arrives. Keep it simple: order one of the fresh pasta dishes, such as the carbonara or alla gricia, and savour the wine list, which features bottles from all over Italy. And don’t forget to fare la scarpetta (“mop up the pasta sauce”) with the house bread, which is made around the corner at the family’s bakery, Antico Forno Roscioli.
Santo Palato, San Giovanni
Santo Palato, the bad boy (or bad girl, more appropriately) of Roman dining, is back bigger and bolder after an extensive refit. Since 2017, chef Sarah Cicolini’s trattoria has redefined tradition, serving offal, pasta and Jewish-Roman classics with a modern twist. After a major redesign by studio Naessi, the restaurant interiors are as considered as its food: the ground floor features raw-walnut tables and red metal inlays, while downstairs, the Santa Cantina wine cellar doubles as an events space for tastings and collaborations.
Neve di Latte, Flaminio
Ermanno di Pomponio’s all-natural gelati and sorbetti are so good that one regular confesses to limiting himself to one visit a week. Pristine produce such as lemons from Amalfi, Basilicata pistachios, Viterbo hazelnuts or aged balsamic vinegar mixed with wild berries ensure intense flavours.
Giulio Passami l’Olio, Via dei Coronari (Centro)
This informal little restaurant and wine bar near the river has outdoor seating that’s perfect for balmy nights. The wine list features hundreds of Italian vintages (many bottles line the wood-panelled walls). Enjoy traditional Roman fare such as the cacio e pepe prepared with tonnarelli pasta, which also has a tasty version with truffles. Pair it with a well-balanced red wine from Lazio.
Piperno, Ghetto Romano (Old Jewish Quarter) Centro
Dating back to 1860, Piperno sits on a small hill in the historic Jewish quarter of Rome. The quiet charm of its secluded piazza – an outdoor setting put to good use in summer – carries into the dining area lined with wood panelling and 19th-century art. Traditional Jewish-Roman fare is the name of the game and while old staples such as carbonara are on the menu, the main attraction is widely known to be the carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichoke). The fried stuffed zucchini flowers are also scrumptious.
Pasticceria Regoli, Esquilino
Since 1916, Pasticceria Regoli has been Rome’s temple of unapologetic indulgence, drawing locals to line up for its pile-high trays of pastries. The star of the show is the maritozzo, a pillowy bun sliced open and filled with whipped cream – a Roman breakfast classic that’s practically a rite of passage. In 2014, Regoli expanded with a café next door, so you can enjoy your pastry with a proper cappuccino any day of the week. Arrive early if you can because its most popular treats often sell out before lunch.
