Neighbourhoods
Prati
Rome away from Rome
Though the meadows that this expansive neighbourhood’s name refers to no longer exist, its wide viali (avenues), small squares and gardens make this a welcome green antidote to the packed and largely treeless historic centre. Prati, though better connected to the rest of the city than most areas (there are three Metro stations on Line A), feels like a world unto itself; its 19th and early 20th-century planned grid system gives it an urban allure. At its southern edge stand two of Rome’s great landmarks – St Peter’s Square and Castel Sant’Angelo – but head north and the mood softens as the streets grow quieter. A coffee stop should be made at Sciascia Caffè 1919 and, at Castroni, you’ll find Rome’s favourite speciality food shop. If you are lucky, you can tie your visit to one of the few occasions that futurist master Giacomo Balla’s house museum is open – it’s well worth an attempt at booking a ticket.
Monteverde Vecchio
A green residential quarter for unhurried mornings
Monteverde Vecchio is Rome’s leafy hilltop escape, perched just above Trastevere yet a world away from its touristy bustle. This elegant residential quarter is covered in tree-lined streets and handsome villas (or villini) but also boasts sweeping city views, making it a favourite spot for Sunday strolls. At its heart is the vast Villa Doria Pamphilj, Rome’s largest landscaped park, where locals jog, picnic and laze on the grass. The neighbourhood itself has a calm, lived-in charm, with cafés, bakeries and family-run trattorias tucked among its residential blocks. It’s ideal for a slow morning: grab a coffee and cornetto at a corner bar, then wander through the parks and discover baroque fountains and shady paths before descending to Trastevere for lunch. Monteverde Vecchio is not a place for sightseeing checklists – it’s where you go to breathe, recharge and see Rome at its most serene.
Esquilino
Discover the city’s lively cosmopolitan neighbourhood
Esquilino is one of Rome’s most layered neighbourhoods, where archaeology, papal grandeur and city life mingle in evocative fashion. In the centre is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, Rome’s largest square. Framed by Turinese-style arcades and dotted with tall palm trees, it almost has an exotic feel. The neighbourhood is crowned by the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the city’s four papal basilicas and now the resting place of Pope Francis. Beyond the basilica, Esquilino hums with everyday life: its Nuovo Mercato Esquilino overflows with spices, vegetables and ingredients from around the world, a reflection of its large immigrant community. The area is also home to hidden gems such as the enigmatic Porta Alchemica (Magic Door) and remnants of Roman aqueducts. Esquilino rewards slow exploration – it’s a place to wander, eat well and glimpse a side of Rome that feels at once ancient, worldly and very much alive.
