Retail
Rinascente, Via Tritone (Centro) and Piazza Fiume (Salario)
Rinascente’s two impressive sites at Via Tritone and Piazza Fiume might make it seem as though Rome has always had a selection of top-notch department stores. The 14,000 sq m Tritone shop, however, only opened in 2018. The company’s Piazza Fiume branch, whose postwar building was designed by Franco Albini and Franca Helg between 1957 and 1961, was recently spruced up by Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli and his Milan-based studio 2050+ in 2022. The revamp respects Albini and Helg’s vision while introducing innovative features such as a panoramic rooftop dining area.
Strategic Business Unit, Piazza Navona (Centro)
When brothers Cristiano and Patrizio Perfetti opened their shop near the foot of Via del Governo Vecchio in 1993, this corner of Rome was still under the radar. Nowadays it’s one of the city’s hottest shopping destinations – and the Strategic Business Unit (SBU) remains its anchor. This is the flagship for the Perfetti brothers’ own label, offering everything from minimalist tailoring to denim: Japanese fabrics cut and finished in Italy.
Federico Polidori, Pantheon (Centro)
Self-taught leather artisan Federico Polidori learned his craft after being inspired by his grandfather, a saddlemaker who supplied gear to Italy’s legendary butteri – the cowboys of Maremma and northern Lazio. His intimate workshop-cum-boutique is lined with wallets, belts and an impressive range of bags, all crafted from vegetable-tanned Tuscan hides and finished with solid brass hardware. From cutting to stitching, Polidori works entirely by hand. Off-the-shelf and made-to-order designs are available.
Chez Dede, Campo de’ Fiori (Centro)
Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla opened this intimate and well-stocked space in 2015 to establish both a physical presence for their branding agency and a place to explore their other passions. Printed and hand-drawn illustrations by Ferolla line the walls, alongside Chez Dede’s trademark accessories; leather totes and clutches are particularly sought after. Despite insisting that they “aren’t really shopkeepers”, the duo have a knack for retail and the eclectic selection of fine goods sourced from near and far indicates otherwise.
Battistoni, Piazza di Spagna (Centro)
The late Guglielmo Battistoni’s studio – now run by his children, Gianni and Simonetta – has been one of Rome’s finest tailors since 1946. The courtyard studio on Via Condotti has served as the company’s headquarters for more than 70 years and looks more like a gentlemen’s club than a boutique. The ready-to-wear collection includes exquisitely cut shirts, colourful yet tasteful beachwear and chic suits in greys and blues, paired with a selection of silk ties and leather goods.
Schostal, Piazza di Spagna (Centro)
Located just a short stroll from the Spanish Steps, Schostal is a Roman institution for anyone who takes their loungewear and beachwear seriously. Founded in 1870 by two Viennese brothers, this family-run boutique has been crafting high-quality pyjamas, shirts, socks and knitwear for more than 150 years, combining artisanship with pared-back elegance. The classic striped forest-green shorts set makes for the perfect beach or poolside attire for him or her.
Mondelliani, Campo de’ Fiori (Centro)
Just a short walk from Campo de’ Fiori, this boutique is as much a design space as it is an optician. Now run by Federico Mondello, who took over from his father, Giancarlo, the shop is known for its curated selection of independent eyewear brands and meticulous lens craftsmanship. Whether you’re after statement sunglasses or timeless optical frames, Mondelliani is just the place to find something truly special.
Porta Portese Market, Trastevere
If Rome has a queen of markets, it’s Porta Portese. Held every Sunday morning, this legendary flea market stretches for 1.5km and spills onto the surrounding side streets, making it the city’s largest and most famous. Expect to rummage through a bit of everything: secondhand clothes, vinyl records, antiques, furniture, books, collectables, bric-a-brac and the occasional dubious knock-off handbag. Yes, there’s plenty of tat but there are also treasures for those willing to dig. The early hours are best for serious bargain hunters, while late-morning visitors can simply soak up the atmosphere and people-watch over a coffee nearby.
Piazza di Porta Portese, 00153
Valentino, Piazza di Spagna (Centro)
Designed by David Chipperfield with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, Rome’s Valentino flagship channels the elegance of a Roman palazzo with its marble atrium, terrazzo walls and sweeping staircases. Next door is the Palazzo Gabrielli-Mignanelli, Valentino’s historic HQ and design studios. This is the brand’s largest location worldwide, offering men’s and women’s collections, accessories and a Rome-exclusive: a made-to-measure denim service.
Almost Corner Bookshop, Trastevere
This shop stocks a vast array of English titles, particularly works by US and UK authors with narratives set in Rome, so it’s a great source of books that will help you to achieve peak cultural immersion. There is also a wide range of Italian cookbooks. Sadly, the bookshop’s founder, Dermot O’Connell, passed away in 2023. Since then, his trusted friend, Rome-based Iranian-American poet Jahan Khajavi, has been diligently and imaginatively keeping the selection up to scratch.
Via del Moro, 45, 00153
