Neighbourhoods
Innere Stadt
The capital’s old town
No visit to Vienna is complete without a proper wander through the 1st district – the city’s historic heart, encircled by the mighty Ringstrasse. Start at Heldenplatz, sprawling before the Hofburg Palace. Beyond, the Burggarten houses Palmenhaus, a grand greenhouse-turned-restaurant and bar – ideal for a lunch stop. Afterwards, head to the Unesco-listed Spanish Riding School to watch its famous Lipizzaner horses in action. Exit onto Michaelerplatz, admire the modernist Looshaus by Adolf Loos (now a bank), and amble up Kohlmarkt towards the Graben. From here you’ll already be able to see the spires of St Stephen’s Cathedral – crowded, yes, but unmissable. Nearby, Loos American Bar is a great spot for a cocktail or coffee (always busy but that’s part of the charm). For a grand finale, head to Figlmüller on Bäckerstrasse, reputedly the birthplace of the original veal Wiener schnitzel. If the queue proves too long, its nearby kiosk, Brioche und Brösel, serves mini schnitzels in bread buns.
Josefstadt and Neubau
Small in size, big in culture
The 8th district, Josefstadt, is Vienna’s smallest but it more than compensates for this with its rich cultural offerings (the Theater in der Josefstadt is Vienna’s oldest, for instance). Stroll down Lange Gasse to Lerchenfelder Strasse, stopping at Nguyen’s Pho House and the Ribelli pizzeria at the 25hours Hotel. Take a durchgang (a through way) at number 13 and you’ll emerge in the neighbouring Neubau (the 7th district). Head up to Sankt-Ulrichs-Platz, home to a splendid baroque church and well-preserved burgher houses. Ulrich, on the east side of the church, is a top pick for both lunch and dinner. For coffee, drinks and vintage clothing, there’s Burggasse 24, and for yet more drinks, the 1950s-style Espresso. Further along, excellent burgers await at XO Grill, while the nearby Neubaugasse is filled with shops such as Calienna for plants; VIU for glasses; and Habari for Japanese crafts.
Freihausviertel
A tight-knit neighbourhood with fine fare to match
The Freihausviertel is a pocket of Vienna’s 4th district (Wieden) that borders the famous Naschmarkt and serves as a small but lively cultural hub. Begin at the top of Schleifmühlgasse, home to several fine galleries, including the street’s anchor, Georg Kargl Fine Arts. Across the street is Blumenkraft, a luxurious, high-ceilinged florist designed by architect Gregor Eichinger. Cross Margaretengasse and sustenance awaits at Vollpension (Schleifmühlgasse), an intergenerational café where grandmothers do the baking. Try to save some of your appetite for the Naschmarkt. There, you’ll find food stalls aplenty, selling everything from fresh fruit and fish to spices and locally made Gegenbauer vinegar. Exit at the far end of the market, pausing to admire the façade of the Secession building. Just behind it, seek a final dose of art, this time from the Old Masters. The 1877 Academy of Fine Arts building holds canvases by Rembrandt, Cranach and Rubens.
