Hong Kong is a city of many identities: a place where global flagships sit next to independent cafés; where steel towers dwarf old shop houses that are home to multiple generations of a single family. One moment you will be walking along a busy street, the next you’ll be on a remote and quiet mountain trail. There is much more to Hong Kong than its sea of skyscrapers. Read on to discover a different side to this complex and ever-changing city.

Need to know

Get to grips with the basics

  1. Taxi tactics: Affordable and abundant, Hong Kong’s taxis may not be the most charming in the world but they’re an efficient way to get around the city.
  2. Quick Cantonese: While you’ll be able to get around Hong Kong with relative ease using only English, knowing a few key Cantonese phrases will come in handy (and may win you some respect).
  3. The big smoke: Hong Kong’s temples are hubs for each community, where incense sticks and coils are lit to honour the dead and the gods.
  4. Come rain or shine: The weather here can be as dramatic and changeable as the skyline. If you’re caught without an umbrella the city’s myriad convenience stores always sell them.
  5. Dignified approach: Be sensitive to the pride that many people here take in their unique culture and history. Many identify themselves as Hong Kongers first and Chinese second.

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Hospitality at its finest

  1. The Peninsula, Tsim Sha Tsui

    Old-school appeal

    There are but a few places in Hong
Kong that can drum up the
city’s romance and history like The Peninsula, the iconic hotel that opened in 1928 overlooking Victoria Harbour from Kowloon’s shoreline.

  2. Pentahotel, San Po Kong

    Contemporary cool

    At the heart of the hotel is the Penta lounge, a multifunctional space that houses an open marketplace-restaurant-bar-café where guests can order Hong Kong street-food classics.

  3. The Pottinger, Central

    Local design champion

    The rooms reference old Hong Kong design and many display work by Fan Ho, who shot iconic images of the city during the 1950s and 1960s. The Envoy roof bar serves great cocktails too.


Local lingo

  1. Beeh-tzao: Beer
  2. Ciu Bao: Very cool
  3. Ding ding: Street trams
  4. Gei dor chihn ah?: How much is it?
  5. Ho Muhng: Very cute
  6. Jo San: Good morning
  7. Ng-goy: Thank you
  8. Sap Sap Soy: No big deal

Food and drink

Smart bites and top stops

  1. Ho Lee Fook, Central

    Chinese cuisine with a twist

    Taiwanese-Canadian chef Jowett Yu is in Hong Kong to explore his version of modern Chinese cuisine with his restaurant Ho Lee Fook.

  2. Hoi On Café, Sheung Wan

    Worthwhile journey

    Hoi On was opened in the 1950s and its name means “safe voyage” in Chinese. Check out the traditional wooden booths and be sure to try the French toast.

  3. Mido Café, Yau Ma Tei

    Cinematic backdrop

    Much loved by the city’s directors and actors for its well-preserved interiors, little has changed here since the 1960s. The Mido Café has been the backdrop for many Hong Kong films, photo shoots and TV shows.

  4. Yan Toh Heen, Tim Sha Tsui

    Modern dim sum with a view

    Yan Toh Heen provides a ringside seat
of Victoria Harbour and the cityscape while offering the chance to savour 
some of the best Cantonese
 food in town. At lunch, dim sum reigns supreme: if you’re dining alone the seafood dumpling trio – grouper, crab leg and scallop – is 
a particularly good choice.

  5. Duddell’s, Central

    Rooftop respite

    This beautiful two-storey space designed by Ilse Crawford houses a Chinese restaurant, art gallery and salon for cultural events. But above all it’s a civilised spot for sundowners, especially the leafy terrace on the upper floor.


Shop talk

  1. Kapok, Wan Chai

    Future classics

    The St Francis Yard outpost focuses on fashion including homegrown womenswear label Berayah and shoes by Common Projects, while the Sun Street location stocks up on homeware such as trays by Hay from Denmark.

  2. Woaw, Central

    Everything under the sun

    Woaw is one of the city’s best concept stores, stocking everything from tech accessories designed by Hong Kong’s Native Union to toiletries from Malin + Goetz.

  3. Loveramics, Causeway Bay

    Tableware with an edge

    Loveramics is an urban loft-style china-tableware shop set up just off Leighton Road in 2009. William Lee founded the company with his wife Grace Ching and the couple take pride in the timelessness of the products they design and sell.

  4. Kubrick, Yau Ma Tei

    Between the covers

    Housed inside the beloved arthouse cinema Broadway Cinematheque in Yau Ma Tei, Kubrick bookshop doubles as
a café, recordshop and gallery, where works by artists are for


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