Retail

For nearly 600 years the Grand Bazaar has been Istanbul’s commercial heart, the place where gold is traded, jackets can be made to measure, rare antiquities are bought and sold and, often, tourists are strong-armed into purchases. Don’t let that put you off: a day spent strolling this labyrinthine complex, with its domed stone ceilings, rowdy salesmen and singular atmosphere, is a must. Plan your trip beforehand. The bazaar is actually an entire district encompassing 66 streets, five mosques, 17 workshops and about 4,000 shops, which are divided into sections like a department store. March straight through the tourist traps on the main drag and seek out the antiques, leather and fabric sections, where there are plenty of unique and well-priced finds to be nabbed.
Beyazit, Fatih

At the heart of any Istanbul community sits the carsi (high street). In Kadikoy, two long pedestrian streets and adjoining passages are stuffed with fish and vegetable stalls, charcuterie, bakeries, coffee houses, trinket shops, confectioners, herbal medicine vendors, fortune tellers and anything else you might need. It’s the best place in the city to pick up culinary souvenirs and shop as the Turks do. As well as olive oils, dried fruits, Turkish delight, nuts and jams, you can also find places selling classic Turkish crockery and coffee pots. If you’re feeling peckish, pop into delicatessen Gozde and pick from its huge selection of mezze, which you can eat on its tiny terrace or take to the nearby corniche for a picnic.

Every Sunday a covered market in a drab corner of inner-city Istanbul transforms into a cavern stuffed with treasures. There are 450 stalls at Ferikoy antiques market, offering everything from flea-market finds to vinyl records and rare furniture. It’s an institution for new arrivals to Istanbul who are looking to furnish an apartment in a suitably eclectic style. There’s plenty to covet here, including old leather suitcases, delicate glassware and sumptuous chandeliers. But for more transportable trinkets there’s a bounty of jewellery, pipes and old coins. A great place to seek out one-off gifts and get a feel for the unique style of the city.
Cumhuriyet, Semt Pazari No 8, 34380 Sisli

Modern Istanbul’s response to the Grand Bazaar, the Zorlu Center is a sprawling Gotham-like complex of glass towers perched on a hillside next to the Bosphorus. Inside, there are luxury boutiques, restaurants and bars, one of the city’s biggest music venues, offices, apartments and a Raffles hotel. Alongside international brands, there are plenty of Turkish names worth checking out. Have a look in Vakko, Ipekyol and Beymen for clothing and Pasabahce for glassware. Keep an eye on the events schedule: you can often catch international acts playing here, as well as the biggest Turkish and regional stars.
Levazim, Vadi Caddesi Zorlu Center No 2, 34340 Besiktas