Palazzo Massimo, Esquilino

Palazzo Massimo presents ancient Roman interiors by using original frescoed interior walls. Removed whole from Roman bed chambers, dining spaces and kitchens, they’ve been hung in rooms of the same proportions. Stepping into Livia’s garden room is like being outdoors – its walls depict such horticultural details that you can almost hear birdsong. Still more intimate is the room-by-room recreation of a villa of the Augustan age. It’s a reminder that ancient Rome was a riot of colour and was often more alien than we imagine.

1 Largo di Villa Peretti, 00185
+39 06 684 851

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Regola

Irish-born curator O’Neill opened his contemporary gallery in 2014. Although the whitewashed space is small it is no indication of the artists exhibited within. Names include Tracey Emin, Anselm Kiefer and Richard Long, as well as Italians such as sculptor and painter Luigi Ontani. O’Neill chooses the artists based on personal appreciation rather than theme or movement. “There is often a long-standing relationship between Lorcan and the artists,” says gallery assistant Vasco Forconi. “First the person, then the art.”

3 Vicolo dei Catinari, 00186
+39 06 6889 2980

Galleria Sala Uno, Monti

Passionist friar and sculptor Tito Amodei opened Rome’s first exhibition space for experimental art in 1970, despite some opposition from the Vatican. Today, director Mary Angela Schroth continues to realise his vision. “His aim was to show works that would not normally be welcomed in commercial galleries and museums,” she says. A collaboration with director Shahroo Kheradmand in 1997 resulted in the establishment of Sala Uno Teatro, a dedicated theatre and music space.

10 Piazza di Porta San Giovanni, 00185
+39 06 700 8691

Images: Claudio Morelli

Go back: Rome


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Monocle 24

00:00 01:00

  • The Atlantic Shift