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Food & Drink

Like a surgeon— Germany

Preface

With wild sturgeon disappearing from the Caspian Sea, sustainable caviar production from farms is taking over. At Desietra in Germany even the much sought-after Beluga caviar can now be produced. And it’s winning over the fussiest chefs.

Caviar

Ten large sturgeon of the species Acipenser Gueldenstaedtii swim slowly around in a Jacuzzi-sized tub full of icy water – the cold temperature relaxes the fish. A white-aproned, welly-wearing fishmonger picks a sturgeon up and with a precise knock on the head puts an end to its six to seven-year-long life. With a sharp, hook-like knife he slits the fish’s stomach open and lifts out the valuable roe. This sturgeon weighs 11.3kg and is carrying 2.27kg of roe, which will be turned into caviar following a simple process. We are in Fulda, an hour’s…

Monocle 24

× The Continental Shift

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