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The butter of choice in the French president’s Elysée Palace and Michelin-starred restaurants around the world comes from a small cooperative dairy in Echiré, a tiny village near Poitiers, in western France. They’ve been making butter here for more than 100 years and the dairy has built up an international business that today generates a €35m annual turnover.

The secret seems to be the quality of the milk – which all comes from nearby farms. The particular quality of the local terroir is what produces the butter’s unique flavour. This milk is…



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