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Japan is into chocolate in a different way to most of the world. Mars bars and Hershey’s Kisses are here, but they are not really what the Japanese think of as chocolate. In the land where the gift for one’s colleagues is a fundamental courtesy, the art of producing and presenting perfectly formed and packaged little sweets is way more important than grabbing a quick sugar rush on the run.

Japan’s chocolate market is much smaller than Europe’s (2006 per capita chocolate consumption was 2.2kg, whereas the British ate 10.3kg and the Danish 7.7kg per…

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