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Places are meant to have a pulse, aren’t they? Cities have a heartbeat and hum you a tune, they say. Naples sings to the buzz of the Vespas on its streets, clicks its fingers to the crash of crockery and chatter of waiters in its restaurants and brags and sings and laughs down at the docks and the market, outside churches and ice-cream parlours, from within calm, wrought-ironed courtyards, in bars, on boats. From Bagnoli to Vesuvius, it’s never quiet in the Bay of Naples.

The blood that courses – and it courses – through the heart of the city is…

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