Food & Drink

Nordic soul— Copenhagen


Claus Meyer, writer, food campaigner and part-time vinegar maker, shows us his favourite food haunts around Frederiksberg, a unique municipality in the heart of the Danish capital.

Egefeld organic market, Mayers deli, Purpa Pasta, Summerbird

Claus Meyer arrives hot foot from Sweden, where he has been scouting for peas to turn into vinegar, and bursts into the drawing room of his grand villa in a leafy side street of Frederiksberg, which he shares with his wife and four children.

“I first moved here 22 years ago,” he says as we head out onto Gammel Kongevej, the area’s main shopping street. “Back then it was very conservative. It’s a lot more vibrant now.”

After a quick scone at the Rein van Hauen organic bakers we head for the nearby Meyers Deli which, when it opened five years ago,…


Frederiksberg is a separate municipality from Copenhagen. It’s traditionally thought of as more aloof than its neighbours, Vesterbro and Nørrebro, but in recent years it has shaken off its stuffy image thanks to an influx of specialist food shops, restaurants and art galleries. The large 19th-century apartments tend to be popular with families and older people. Outsiders like to come to picnic in Frederiksberg Have, a leafy park overlooked by an 18th-century royal palace, built by the king after whom the quarter was named, Frederik IV.

Address book

Restaurant Mêlée
Martensens Allé 16, 1828 Frederiksberg
+ 45 35 13 11 34

Gammel Kongevej 113, 1850 Frederiksberg C
+ 45 33 28 20 20

Summerbird chocolaterie
Værnedamsvej 9, 1819 Frederiksberg C
+ 45 33 25 25 50

Copenhagen Roaster
Dronning Olgas Vej 30, 2000 Frederiksberg
+ 45 38 11 12 80

Rein van Hauen
Gammel Kongevej 177, 1850 Frederiksberg C
+ 45 33 21 25 03

Anker & Genz
Slagtehusgade 46, 1715 København V
+ 45 33 25 77 99

Wheat your apetite

Puglia, Italy

Since its launch last October, artisanal Swiss-owned but Italian-made pasta brand Ppura has been satisfying the appetites of pasta purists. Set up by two childhood friends who wanted to recreate the steaming pasta pots their Italian mothers used to cook, the firm’s small production factory in Puglia uses methods from the 19th century.

Founders Cemal Cattaneo and Maurizio Floccari spent more than 15 months scouring Italy for ingredients. The duo sourced the perfect durum wheat from the bread-making region of Altamura, which gives Ppura its unique nutty taste. The range of six types of pasta includes the sculptural capricci, fettucce and farfalle. Serve with Ppura’s three types of pesto, including the sweet, spiky Pomodori Salentini that was chosen after the founders tasted over 100 tomato varieties.



Jelmolí Gourmet Factory, Switzerland
Seidengasse 1, Zürich, jelmoli.ch

Feinkost Käfer, Germany
Prinzregentenstrasse 73, Munich, feinkost-kaefer.de

Julius Meinl am Graben, Austria
Am Graben 19, Vienna, meinl.com

Eataly Torino, Italy
Via Nizza 230, Turin, eataly.it

La Grande Epicerie, France
Rue de Sèvres 38, Paris


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