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Claus Meyer arrives hot foot from Sweden, where he has been scouting for peas to turn into vinegar, and bursts into the drawing room of his grand villa in a leafy side street of Frederiksberg, which he shares with his wife and four children.

“I first moved here 22 years ago,” he says as we head out onto Gammel Kongevej, the area’s main shopping street. “Back then it was very conservative. It’s a lot more vibrant now.”

After a quick scone at the Rein van Hauen organic bakers we head for the nearby Meyers Deli which, when it opened five years ago,…



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