01Jupe’s hand- embroidered ties
02Morrison Fair Isle knitwear
03Taylor Supply’s military-influenced range
04Capsule was set in a converted car park
05Rocky Mountain gilets
07Knitted hat from Raffaello Bettini
08Brooks has brought back retro cycle accessories
10Quai de Valmy’s fine leather collection
11Raffaello Bettini has introduced a male line
12Trade fair stand
14Taylor Supply’s Christophe Hascoat
Stars of the show
Quai de Valmy
Launched three years ago by Henri-Georges Zaks of Seraphin, QdV enlists the talents of Isaac Reina to “educate a new generation in luxury”. Using Norwegian shearling and baby crocodile skin, each piece gets around three hours of hand finishing.
Dating back to 1866, Brooks is best known for solid, well-sprung bike saddles. Up until the mid-1950s, it was also a producer of cycle garments and accessories. Working with British tailor Timothy Everest, it has revived these forgotten lines.
Rocky Mountain was a solid stand at Capsule. Now under Japanese ownership, the jackets and gilets use 70-denier nylon, while retaining Rocky Mountain’s distinctive single-sheet leather yoke.
Bringing the best Shetland Fair Isle knitwear to Paris (by way of Antwerp), Morrison was one of the stars of the show this season. Siblings Jan and Patrick Olyslager work with tiny Scottish companies of 15 people or less.
Taking early 20th-century America as a starting point, designer Christophe Hascoat broadens the look with a military edge (minus the formality). The new outerwear uses quality wax fabrics, high twist twill and corduroy.
Described as “a virgin with more than 40 years experience” by Ma.strum representative Matthias Lemcke, the brand was founded in 2008 drawing on the extensive Massimo Osti archive of more than 50,000 fabrics. Headed by Donrad Duncan, Ma.strum pioneers a hybrid of technical apparel and sportswear.
Having specialised in women’s hats since the 1930s, this Italian brand launched a men’s line in 2009. It combines traditional shapes with innovative materials, such as knitted wool and acrylics, and has been popular in Japan.
Founded in 2010 by Jackie Villevoye, Jupe’s slim ties are intricately embroidered by hand in India – a process that can take up to eight hours. The Amsterdam-based designer makes ties for men and women.
Q&A - Edina Sultanik Silver
Why did you decide to go to Paris with Capsule?
The fashion and trade shows happen at the same time; they aren’t divided like Pitti and Milan. Also the city’s fashion profile is somewhat more experimental than Milan and Florence.
Who is Capsule for?
Ninety per cent of our visitors are buyers and 10 per cent are press. Fostering the community around our show is very important to us.
What was new for Paris this season?
Billy Reid showing for the first time – a big deal. And others included Simon Miller Jeans, Brooks from England, DS Dundee and even Jack Spade.