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From Anchorage, Alaska, it’s another three hours of flying over white-capped volcanoes, frozen tundra and the Bering Sea before reaching the remote Aleutian island outpost of Unalaska. It’s mid-January – the start of the snow crab, cod and pollock season – and the canneries and fish processing plants are bringing in their seasonal workers. The 30-seater Pen Air turbo-prop planes that fly eight times a day in high season to Unalaska’s Dutch Harbor Airport are packed.

Our plane stops to refuel for the second time in two hours at Cold Bay, an almost…



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