thumbnail text

“I enjoy cosy places more than luxury restaurants. If you are paying a lot of money you expect to be excited, and most food offered in elite restaurants is not exciting, it’s just expensive. So I prefer to come somewhere where I’m thrilled by the atmosphere. In the warmer months I come here with friends and we eat outside; sometimes we go swimming in the river too. And every year on 19 ­January [the Russian Orthodox date of the Epiphany] we come to cut holes in the ice, swim in the river and then return inside to have some brandy.

For my last meal…



Drag me