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“We built this place ourselves,” says Mark Labrooy of Sydney’s latest breakfast hotspot, a few blocks from the surf in beachside Bronte. “Everything is recycled or secondhand, and we grow our own tomatoes and herbs out the back. We want to be as low-impact as possible.”

Labrooy, 30, first met up with co-owners Sam Reid-Boquist, 25, and Chris Sorrell, 29, on a surfing holiday. “There we were sitting around on a beach in Morocco, complaining about the ‘evil multinationals,” recalls Labrooy, as he cuts metre-long mats of golden Turkish bread into…

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