Ones to watch
Rocky Mountain Featherbed
Showing for the first time at Pitti, this range of padded vests has a heritage going back to 1960s Wyoming. Having met its demise in the late 1980s, the American heritage brand found a saviour in the form of Kinji Teramoto, who brought the brand to Japan in 2005.
The materials used in Bologna-based Ten C’s range of field jackets are a revelation. Fusing a resin-treated Japanese jersey cotton outer layer with a polyester nylon lining, they are light but hardwearing and are incredibly soft to the touch.
Designer Shindai Usuki took inspiration from classic sports brands such as Champion when starting Riding High in 2001, with casual hoodies in washed pastel shades updated with detailing such as chunky zips. Exploring the international market for the first time this season, the brand has a solid fanbase at home.
This Biella-based brand works closely with the region’s small textile-producers to create a collection of just four colours – Bordeaux, navy, khaki and light blue. With echoes of 1940s classic tailoring, designer Stefano Ughetti adds twists such as oversized elbow patches, and trousers with elasticised cycling ankles.
Another new Italian brand is 10A, based in Vicenza. Set up three years ago, it originally made just 10 pairs of trousers a month. Antwerp-trained designer Daria Dazzan and creative director Matteo Cibic have since created a functional and clean collection, collaborating with Italian brand Marcoliani this season.
Launched in 2007 by veteran Hideto Suzuki, this cycling inspired collection uses a blend of technical fabrics and fine wool or sashiko judo cloth. It features subtle reflective detailing, high-backed trousers and deep pockets.
Father and son team Dario and Matteo Marangon launched Redux in 2010 to take Italian jeans into a more stylish denim niche dominated by Japanese producers. Redux uses heavy weaves and three-stitch seams for a pure workwear product.
Fortela was launched in 2010 by Italian retailer and designer Alessandro Squarzi to bring some much needed style and tailoring back to the denim market. It’s made in Italy, stitched by hand, and uses top quality Japanese fabrics.