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At the Tadich Grill in San Francisco, tradition is king. Founded in 1849, serving rice custard since the 1920s and having a loyal staff of 36 (a Croatian called Tony Vrcic has been waiting tables since 1982) why would the Tadich change anything if its 110 seats are always full?

The oldest restaurant in San Francisco, Tadich is a classic American dining room. There are seven mahogany booths where solicitous waiters wearing white jackets serve seafood dishes. In the centre, swivel chairs are stationed around a long bar. Tadich started out on a wharf…



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