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Suomenlinna may be a military base and only have a population of about 850 but it attracts around 700,000 tourists a year, among them Helsinki residents who come to roam the meadows, sniff the sea air and wander the historic cobbled streets. The islands are accessible via a 20-minute ferry ride that runs from Kauppatori (Helsinki’s market square) or a service boat that leaves from the Katajanokka neighbourhood. Since 1973 The Governing Body (part of the Ministry of Education) is in charge of the islands’ conservation (the fortress is a unesco…

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