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René Redzepi walks out of the kitchen with a handful of raw carrots and introduces himself while munching on one. “I hope you don’t mind if I snack,” he says. “I eat all the time – I just love food.” His comment might sound like a cliché, especially coming from someone who’s regarded as the best chef in the world (Redzepi’s restaurant, Noma, has two Michelin stars and was recognised as the best restaurant in the world for three years straight at the San Pellegrino 50 Best awards, the Oscars of the culinary scene).

But in fact there was a time when…

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