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There’s a meme going around. It features US secretary of state Marco Rubio facing an improbable future as the president of Venezuela, the leader of Cuba and the shah of Iran – all at the same time. It’s a cheeky take on the current political condition but one that reflects the former senator from Florida’s unexpected position as the most powerful man in Washington, besides his boss of course.
 
Rubio is now far more than a mere senior cabinet member – he’s the physical manifestation of the most muscular foreign policy agenda since the Cold War. This week’s workout? He’s trying to lift the mineral-rich island of Greenland out of the Danes’ hands. It’s heavy stuff. Indeed, despite campaigning as a president to “end wars”, Trump has become one of the most aggressive and adversarial American leaders since Ronald Reagan. And he has Marco Rubio, in many ways, to thank for it. Trump even suggested the US strike on Venezuela might have been “Marco’s revenge” against Maduro, who had lavished the communist regime in Havana with vast supplies of oil. Even if this betrays barely a shred of truth, the level of antipathy felt by Cuban Americans such as Rubio to Havana makes him ideally suited for the White House’s new hawkish course.

Succession watch: Heirs apparent Rubio (centre) and Vance (on right)

The question is how much of this is Trump and how much Rubio? The likely answer is a whole lot of both. And as Iran continues to convulse – and Trump threatens to attack drug cartels in Mexico as he has done off the coast of Venezuela – can Rubio contain his boss’s ambitions amid an increasingly outraged global community?
 
There are few more seasoned politicians in the Trump administration than Rubio, the son of Cuban immigrants who spent a quarter of a century in public service. At just 54, he is among the elder statesmen in Trump World and a clear political rival to vice-president JD Vance, more than a decade his junior. The pair have been engaged in a not-so-subtle pas de deux over who will next assume the Oval Office and carry on Trump’s Maga legacy. 
 
Rubio has shown impressive restraint and consummate team player deftness in allowing Vance to stand as Trump’s presumed successor. But Rubio’s highly prominent public profile suggests his ambitions are far more aggressive than his baby-faced demeanour might reveal. Rubio is the modern incarnation of Henry Kissinger but whereas Kissinger was barred from the presidency owing to his foreign birth, Rubio seems like the most organic fit possible.
 
Despite his impressive wins, Rubio’s most difficult days are still ahead of him. Hamas might be vanquished and Nicolás Maduro imprisoned in New York but the new Iranian revolution has only just begun and Denmark – if not all of Nato and the EU – will not stand idle as Trump eyes Greenland. Claudia Sheinbaum, Mexico’s leader, has repeatedly declared that she will not tolerate a US violation of Mexican sovereignty and Colombian president Gustavo Petro – despite recent signs of warming – has yet to back down from the White House’s posturing. 
 
Rubio has so far managed to get most things right. But even a mild military confrontation with an American neighbour – and an existential crisis within the country’s most strategic military alliance – would be both unprecedented and perhaps insurmountable. Worst of all, both would be highly unnecessary, raising the spectre of a still pliant global community fully turning its back on Trump’s borderless land grabs. 
 
The US, of course, is too powerful to become a nation isolated or alone. But even powers that cannot be ignored by the global community can be shut out of the rites and rhythms – look at Israel following the war in Gaza. Considering that he has essentially declared that he is beyond international law, Trump might not care. But ultimately, it will be Rubio who’s dispatched to do the dirty work. His goal will be to keep his hands clean as the world order shifts. It’s not an easy task and it’s likely that Trump sees him as a potential scapegoat for any problems along the way. If he can avoid calamity, he will be rewarded handsomely in 2028.
 
Kaufman is a New York-based journalist and regular Monocle contributor. Read more from him here.

Mongolia-born designer Oyuna Tserendorj hosted her first fashion show last year in Paris to present her eponymous label’s autumn/winter 2025 collection – a cosy line-up of cashmere coats, lightweight knits and loose trousers in earthy honey hues, crisp winter whites and deep blues inspired by dark skies. The striking colour palette was developed in collaboration with Pantone, the global authority on colour trends, which has partnered with companies as wide-ranging as Barbie, Bentley and Roman fashion house Valentino. 

Staying true to her brand’s timeless ethos – and her own gentle nature – Tserendorj did things her way: she hosted an intimate, salon-style show at a friend’s Left Bank apartment overlooking the Seine. Models walked barefoot and a family-style dinner was served shortly after the show. The inspiration behind her new collection, dubbed “Caravan”, was the journey of a nomadic Mongolian family moving to its next base for winter and observing the changing natural landscapes along the way. 

Here she tells Monocle about the process of working with Pantone to find the colours that perfectly matched her vision, the importance of manufacturing in Mongolia and her new winter residence on London’s Savile Row. 

Flying colours: Oyuna Tserendorj

Talk us through the creative process for your new autumn/winter 2025 collection. 
I always start with a concept. Sometimes it’s something abstract, the idea of dualities, for example, but this time I was thinking about a nomadic family transitioning from autumn to winter. I looked at images of Mongolia during the changing of the seasons – I had the vision of a family on horses moving from golden autumnal landscapes into colder winter ones.  

Given the collaboration with Pantone, it made sense to talk about the richness of colour. But there were also other elements such as belting, inspired by Mongolian nomads who often need to pack up their lives in minutes and keep moving.

What role did Pantone play?
The idea was everything to me, so we colour-matched the images that I had in mind to Pantone shades. I never used colour charts in the past – I would go to flea markets or ribbon shops to find [inspiration for] colours to use – but when you have a specific vision, Pantone charts can give you a much broader spectrum of choice. It’s interesting to see the business opening up and supporting smaller, more niche brands.   

Can you share more about the silhouettes that were chosen for the season? 
It’s all about having a really nice drape, so that each piece can work on any figure and the wearer can make [the design] their own. I look at clothing as shields. There is this cliché about wearing cashmere to sit on your sofa with a cup of tea – sometimes it’s nice to do that but my designs are about bright colours and wearing them out in the world and bringing about change. It’s connected to Mongolia, where people are always engaging with the outdoors, with animals, with nature. 

How important is it for you to champion Mongolia and manufacture your collections in local factories?  
Mongolian cashmere is so well known but up to 85 per cent leaves the country as raw material – that is why it’s important for me to produce my collections locally. But it’s becoming challenging. There is a major workforce shortage: Mongolia might be a big country but its population is only a little more than three million, so the talent pool is very limited. 

Tell us about your new winter residence on Savile Row. 
We have been around for 23 years now, so I felt that it was to put our name out there with a central location. When we moved in [to the space], we tried to experiment and do a lot of things by ourselves, including repainting a series of repurposed office desks in a soft grey to match the autumn/winter collection. I also painted some of the cabinets cobalt blue – Mongolia is a country of blue skies, so I always try to incorporate different shades of blue into my work. 

Finally, what are the biggest factors to consider when buying cashmere? 
I would recommend buying something light that can be layered and worn year-round. Also, remember that cashmere is a natural material so it loves fresh air and sunlight. You don’t need to wash your cashmere after every wear – sometimes all you need to do is leave it outside.

It’s Saturday midday in Zürich and it’s snowy, blustery and comfortably cosy. My mother and I just boarded the Swiss LX 160 to Tokyo Narita, mom is across the aisle and I’m looking forward to a few days of work mixed with mama-son time. Mom hasn’t been to Japan for about 10 years so it’s going to be a few action-packed days of good bites, shopping, coffees, sunny days on the terrace at the Palace Hotel and late nights at private restaurants. If you want to do something similar with your mama, here’s my top ten for Tokyo:

1.
Use up all your points and treat mom by flying first class. If you’re not hooked up with a carrier that still has first-class cabins, then the lady deserves business at the very least.

2.    
It’s always good to start with a little surprise on arrival. I have my dear friend Noriko picking us up at Narita.

3.    
We’re doing two nights at the Palace to start. Since the Park Hyatt closed for renovations, this has been my new address. To spread the love, we’ll do two nights there and two nights at the recently reopened Park Hyatt. Stay tuned for the review. 

4.    
Winter is the best time to hit Tokyo. Forget sakura season and autumn leaves as Tokyo is rammed with muppets in polar fleeces and bad trainers. January is good but February is great as spring/summer collections start hitting the rails, so you get big sunny skies, fewer tourists and the best shopping.

5.
Lunch at Shiseido Parlour is a mama pleaser. I grew up going to department stores where an elegant lunch was part of the Saturday programme and Shiseido Parlour still captures this with its calm dining room, perfect dishes, fine wine list and generally Japanese clientele. Most visitors wouldn’t get it but that’s the whole point. It’s from another time, has a menu of classic yoshoku dishes and perhaps the best Caesar salad in the world. 

6.
Who doesn’t like going a bit Wako? In a similar spirit to Shiseido Parlour, Wako has become my favourite department store in the world. An anchor in the heart of Ginza and part of the extended Seiko family, it has shades of old school Henri Bendel and Montreal’s Ogilvy from its golden years. The store has many things that you might need and zero tat. Indeed, it’s like a very good magazine – exquisitely edited, beautifully presented and there’s always something to discover. Sound familiar?

7.
And who doesn’t like a second surprise, all in the same day? Noriko is well sorted with a group of private restaurants and it’s always a treat to visit one of her establishments and be treated to pretty much whatever you fancy. Fancy a tiny filet made with the finest beef from Hokkaido? Tick. A crab croquette with a tangy sauce? Tick. A plump tomato from Kyushu with the skin removed and soaked in a delicate vinaigrette? Double tick.

8.
Mom loves a well-assembled burger and she still remembers our trip to Golden Brown all those years ago. This will be repeated. For sure there are many places with a better burger in Tokyo but the location in Omotesando Hills is hard to improve on, so that’s on the cards for Tuesday or Wednesday. 

9.
After burgers there will most definitely be a little Aoyama tour and this will include a trip through the Nezu Museum, some grocery shopping at Kinokuniya and hitting a few bookshops as well. Dinner at Appia Alta is also in the diary. 

10.
I am looking forward to my return to the Park Hyatt on Tuesday. The withdrawal during the Covid years was bad enough (can we pause for a moment and reflect on how ridiculous that period was?) but the closure for renovation has been agonising. Anyway, I cannot wait to sample room 4701 again and treat mom to a dazzling eve at the New York Grill on Wednesday. Tune in to Monocle on Sunday and I’ll let you know how we’re getting on.

Enjoying life in ‘The Faster Lane’? Click here to browse all of Tyler’s past columns. 

New York has always been a bibliophile’s city. Most jobs at newspapers, magazines and publishers in the US are here, and despite the eye-watering rents, it remains one of the best places in the world to make it as a writer. No wonder, then, that the city also teems with savvy booksellers.

While bricks-and-mortar bookshops in New York don’t enjoy particular tax breaks or subsidies, they do have the advantage of sky-high foot traffic by people generally keen on browsing. Thanks to the city’s literary reputation, tourists often gravitate towards books as souvenirs. Plus, it doesn’t hurt that bookshops can be some of the quietest places to escape to in Manhattan.

There are the big chains and the used-books juggernauts but once you’ve been to The Strand, take the time to explore some smaller, more specialised addresses. Here we pick ten of our favourite of the lesser-known outlets, including an artists’ bookshop, a bookshop for children, a culinary bookshop, a bookshop for French-speakers and even a bookshop in a private living room. The beauty of New York is that almost any niche, no matter how off-centre, can find enough adherents to support a brisk business. 


1.
Three Lives & Company

Set on a quaint corner of the West Village, Three Lives & Company packs plenty of literary clout into its 60-odd sq m. With a small display of new releases that reflects the tastes of the historically bookish neighbourhood, this is where you will reliably find the novel that is about to become the talk of the town.   

Three Lives & Company book shop in New York
(Image: Courtesy of Three Lives & Company)

Three Lives was founded in 1978 by three women: the couple Jill Dunbar and Jenny Feder, and a friend, Helene Webb. In 2001, it was taken over by Toby Cox, who worked in publishing and had been a regular at the store. “At the time of my realisation that I wanted to switch to bookselling, they told me that they were looking to sell,” he says. Cox has preserved the store’s old fixtures, as well as the refined but generalist selection on the shelves. 

Mainly because of spatial constraints, Three Lives only organises book signings at breakfast time, with authors and readers mingling over coffee and scones. Guests have included Zadie Smith and Ocean Vuong, while Karl Ove Knausgaard is stopping by in January. “These are authors that pack a big hall,” says Cox. “They seem to love it here.”

Neighbourhood trivia: The team once made use of roadworks outside to bury a Penguin Classics edition of Gertrude Stein’s Three Lives under the sidewalk.

Most anticipated new releases: This is Where the Serpent Lives by Daniyal Mueenuddin and Vigil by George Saunders, both January 2026.   

Recommended novel by a West Village writer: Mitz by Sigrid Nunez, from 1998.      


2.
Mast Books

This East Village bookshop intentionally defies easy categorisation. In the spare, glassed-in space, there are no labelled sections or promotional signs. The selection ranges from a memoir of a graffiti artist to a survey of photographer Luigi Ghirri, and from a manifesto on the art of listening to a tome on colour in 1970s interiors. The main through line is the personal taste of co-founder Bryan Leitgeb. “If you like one thing in the store,” he says, “there’s a good chance you’ll find a way to like almost everything.”

Together with his wife, James McKee, Leitgeb founded Mast in 2010. Today, the split between old and new titles is about 50-50, with both self-published artists’ books and choice titles from established publishers in the mix. The shelf space is tightly curated and always changing. “It is edited down so that each book speaks to the others,” says Leitgeb. “At its best, the store can create narratives just by the way that it’s organised.” It works: Mast is frequented by the young and culturally keen who spend hours poring through the titles and rarely walk away empty-handed. 

Number of books on display: About 1,000.   

Highlight of new publications: Greer Lankton: Could It Be Love from Magic Hour Press.   

Good to note: The shop has decent opening hours: noon to 20.00, seven days per week.   


3.
Peter Harrington

Fourth Avenue below Union Square was long known as Book Row, for the used-book shops that lined the street. While those businesses are largely gone, the city still has a large antiquarian trade – it has just migrated north, into townhouses on the Upper East Side. The latest addition to this rarefied world is Peter Harrington, the longstanding London dealer that opened a Manhattan outpost in September.   

In a third-floor walk-up on 67th Street that was once inhabited by Audrey Hepburn, the shop contains a treasure trove spanning seven centuries of print. “We brought over the cream of what we have in London,” says manager Ben Houston. The inventory runs from handmade booklets from Hogarth Press, the publishing house founded by Virginia Woolf, to books bound by William Morris and all the way to 17th-century Shakespeare folios. There’s also plenty of Americana, including the first photocopy of Jack Kerouac’s typewritten manuscript of On the Road

Peter Harrington is far from the stereotypical dusty antiquarian: the books all have price tags and visitors are welcome to sit down in a Hans Wegner chair to leaf through them. “People tend to stay for a long time,” says Houston. “Everyone can find something they love.”

Number of employees worldwide: 80

Most expensive item on display: Shakespeare’s Third Folio from 1664, priced at $1.35m (€1.15m).   

Gift recommendation: A first edition of Joseph Heller’s Catch-22.


4.
Albertine Books

New York’s premier address for French literature is tucked inside a Gilded Age mansion on Fifth Avenue. Villa Albertine, named after the love interest in Marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time, has been the cultural arm of the French embassy since the 1950s. A bookshop for Francophone literature opened in 2014 after the last one in the city closed. Covering two floors in the back of the building, the serene space – with a hand-painted night sky gracing the ceiling – has become a sleeper hit in New York.   

Albertine Books - book shop in New York
(Image: Courtesy of Albertine Books)

Albertine Books stocks about 14,000 titles, the majority of them in French, with a sizeable children’s section on the second floor. (A bronze statue of The Little Prince, seated on a wall facing Central Park, serves as advertisement out front). There is also a robust selection of translated French literature, as well as novels by James Baldwin, Ernest Hemingway and other writers with a strong connection to the country. Albertine hosts a monthly book club, with works always available in translation to accommodate French-speakers of all levels. “We necessarily have a limited audience,” says director Miriam Gordis. “But it’s a close-knit community.”

Pick of the 2025 rentrée littéraire: Les Forces by Laura Vazquez.   

Best book for French learners: L’Etranger by Albert Camus.   

Most popular event hosted: A talk with Annie Ernaux coincidentally took place two days after she won the Nobel Prize. “The line went down the block,” says Gordis.   


5.
Kitchen Arts & Letters

This shop on Lexington Avenue claims to be the oldest in the country to specialise in cookbooks and food-related literature. Founded in 1983 by anthropologist Nach Waxman, Kitchen Arts & Letters has always taken a wide remit within the niche. “We want people to walk in and find things they didn’t even know existed,” says managing partner Matt Sartwell. “This shop is a cure for potential food ennui.”

Kitchen Arts & Letters book store in New York
(Image: Courtesy of Kitchen Arts & Letters)

Kitchen Arts & Letters caters to chefs of all stripes: Julia Child was an early customer, but there are also cookbooks for amateurs, with a focus on smaller, independent publishers. Just as extensive is the literature related, even tangentially, to food. There are classics of the genre from Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin and MFK Fisher but also a book about the linguistics of menus and a zine about lampredotto, the Florentine tripe sandwich. The back room contains a reference archive of rare books that is only opened for special requests. 

The shop’s speciality is a boon, as cooking has become one of the fastest-growing areas of publishing in recent years. “Books are forgiving,” says Sartwell. “If I spill something on the counter, it’s easier to replace a 35-dollar book than an 800-dollar phone.”

Books in stock: 11,000-12,000

Most-recommended cookbook: Cucina Fresca by Evan Kleiman and Viana La Place, a 1984 recipe book for make-ahead vegetable dishes that is still in print. 
  
For food-adjacent literature: The Oysters of Locmariaquer by Eleanor Clark. “As if William Faulkner wrote a book about living in an oyster village in Brittany,” says Sartwell.


6.
Head Hi

Most bookshops pride themselves on their sheer quantity of books but Head Hi takes the opposite approach. Only a small number of publications are displayed at any one time; mostly brand-new releases on architecture and design that are stocked in very limited quantities. “It becomes a snapshot of contemporary culture,” says Alexandra Hodkowski, who founded the space with her partner, artist Alvaro Alcocer. “We’re both obsessed with what is happening right now.”

Head Hi was founded in 2018 after Alcocer, an artist and musician, and Hodkowski, a curator, came across a vacant space a block from their home in Fort Greene. The focus on the built environment reflects the industrial surroundings of Brooklyn Navy Yard, where many artists, architects and woodworkers have their studios. But the space welcomes a broad audience. “We tell people that you don’t have to be an architect to like architecture,” says Hodkowski. The eclectic programming includes listening parties and performances, as well as a biannual lamp show. 

“We always loved record shops, bookshops and places where you pick up flyers and run into friends,” she says. “These alternative art spaces add so much cultural value to a city.” 

Number of books on display: 150

Favourite publishers: Arquine, Lars Müller, Park Books.   

From the in-house press: Days Without Number: New York City, a compendium of street photography by Giovanna Silva, published by Head Hi and Mousse Magazine.   


7.
Books Are Magic

When Emma Straub and Michael Fusco-Straub opened Books Are Magic, a neighbourhood bookshop in Cobble Hill, the couple also had a one- and a three-year-old to take care of. “A big part of it was, ‘Where do we bring our children?’” says Straub. From day one, the bookshop catered to readers of all ages, with a kids’ section not much smaller thanthe one for adults.

Books Are Magic is a popular stop on the high-profile book launch circuit – recent guests include Margaret Atwood and Patti Smith – but the most-loved events at the shop are story time sessions for kids. Any child who enters is welcome to write a so-called “shelf talker”, a handwritten recommendation that draws attention to a book. “The bar for entry is enthusiasm,” says Straub. “The key is not to talk down to kids but to treat them as full people, which they are.”

Books Are Magic now has a staff of about 30 and a second shop in Brooklyn Heights opened in 2022. Both shopfronts are easily recognisable with their colourful signage painted directly on the brick façade, as well the huddle of strollers parked out front. 

Events hosted in 2025: 264, with a total of 16,496 attendees.

Children’s picture-book recommendation: Du Iz Tak by Carson Ellis.   

Authors from the neighbourhood: Isaac Fitzgerald, Molly McGhee, Hernan Diaz, Jia Tolentino.   


8.
Printed Matter

On 12 December 1975, a group of seven artists sent out a letter to their friends asking whether they had ever made an artists’ book, specifying that they didn’t mean catalogues. The packages they received in return became the basis for Printed Matter, which opened the following year. The shop and publishing press posited that books can, in themselves, be an art form too.   

Inside Printed Matter book shop in New York
(Image: Megan Mack/Courtesy of Printed Matter)

The first books included John Baldessari’s Throwing Three Balls in the Air to Get a Straight Line (Best of 36 Attempts), and Sol LeWitt’s Four Basic Kinds of Lines and Color, both simple and sublime works that have become classics of the genre (with collectors’ prices to match). Exactly 50 years later, Printed Matter still receives half-a-dozen submissions a day from artists around the world. The Chelsea shop lives up to its name: every available surface is covered with print.

Printed Matter also organises annual book fairs in New York and Los Angeles, which have grown into the main industry jamborees for the beguiling world of artists’ book publishing. “We understand how far-reaching our work has been,” says head of distribution Craig Mathis. “But in a weird sort of way, we still feel very scrappy.”

From the in-house press: Just in Case by Taysir Batniji.   

Archival gem: LA Air by Bruce Nauman, which depicts blue and smoggy skies in Los Angeles, sold for $10 (€8.50) in 1976 and is now listed for $500 (€427). 
  
Favourite publishers: New York-based Khajistan Press, which publishes material that is taboo in the country it is sourced from, and Independent Paper Consortium, a French collective of zine- and book-making artists.   


9.
McNally Jackson

McNally Jackson is the rare thing: a retail chain that has held onto its indie character. In 2004, Canadian-born Sarah McNally opened the first shop on Prince Street in Nolita. The company has since expanded into Rockefeller Center, South Street Seaport and two locations in Brooklyn. Many of the business strategies that McNally pioneered –   giving staff the freedom to curate displays, paying as much attention to the backlist as to new releases and prioritising the sheer quantity of books – have been emulated by booksellers across the board.   

Included in this literary empire are an in-house press that resurrects out-of-print gems, more than a dozen different book clubs (McNally’s own is wading through Infinite Jest, about 100 pages at a time) and a biannual book festival held for the first time this year. Crucially, in every shop there are tens of thousands of books, neatly lined up on hardwood shelves and deep leather armchairs to encourage getting lost in them. 

Number of locations: 5

From the in-house press: New York Sketches by EB White.  
 
2025 bestseller: I Regret Almost Everything by Keith McNally (no relation).   


10.
High Valley Books

Inside a baby-blue clapboard house in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, is a mecca of print for the fashion designer, decorator, photographer or anybody aesthetically inclined. Its owner, Bill Hall, who lives upstairs with his family, started selling second-hand books more than 25 years ago. Today the home is packed to the rafters. There is one wall for fashion, one wall for photography, a nook each for architecture and interior design and a cellar crammed with back issues of Vogue and obscure German typography magazines. “When I dreamt of having a bookshop, I thought it would be art and literature,” says Hall. “Pretty soon, I was seduced by the decorative arts.”

High Valley Books is open by appointment but the living room still gets crowded, creating an informal salon for serendipitous encounters. Celebrities occasionally pop in – one recent incognito visitor turned out to be Frank Ocean. Everybody rummages through the same overstuffed bookshelves and piles of arcana. “This is fed by people in the creative industries,” says Hall. “It could only exist in New York.” 

Underappreciated out-of-print magazine: Viva, published 1973-1980, with a young Anna Wintour as fashion editor.   

Advice for aspiring book dealers: Keep your own collection away from the business. “Do not sell what you love out of penance for not succeeding right away,” says Hall.

Ballpark amount of inventory: More than 50,000.

Read next: Monocle’s complete city guide to and map of New York

There’s an unspoken agreement on our epic Christmas drives from London to Palma. Wait, what am I on about, it’s very spoken. The other half makes it clear that he wants to do most of the driving and for me to manage the snacks, the dog and the music. He claims that it’s because he’s a bad passenger. What he means is that my driving strikes the fear of God into him: lane drift, looking at the passing landscape, not knowing what any of the buttons do. He’s harsh. But just before Christmas, as we came to the final stretch of day one, he admitted to needing a break and suggested that I do the non-motorway section to get us to our hotel in the town of Montluçon.

The town has, it transpires, used many road-design devices to slow down its urban traffic, including a system of chicanes featuring high-kerbed traffic islands. I know this because I hit one. With ambition. The car swerved but somehow no harsh words were said. A night at the Château Saint-Jean hotel was enjoyed. The following morning, a valet returned our car and we were off, with me not even pretending that I was getting anywhere near the steering wheel.

Andrew Tuck reading a map while his car gets new tyres

We pulled on to the motorway. “There’s a funny sound; can you hear it?” asked owl ears. I couldn’t but I needed to restock the snacks (it’s vital work) and the dog said that she wanted a croissant, so we pulled into the next service station and I did a car check. Oh dear. There was a blister on the tyre that had kissed the kerb. Don’t imagine a diddy thing on your toe, think plague-like bulla, a gargantuan pustule the size of an on-heat baboon’s radiant bottom.

We did some Googling (“your tyre might blow and you might die”). There was a call to our expensive breakdown cover provider (“bad luck, you must phone the police if you are on a French motorway. Bye.”). There was a family debate. It was a Sunday, just before Christmas but we were not far from the city of Clermont-Ferrand, home of Michelin, so surely we could drive slowly and find a tyre shop? It seemed that there was one which, via Whatsapp, we ascertained would be able to replace our warty ring of rubber. We limped along, lazy hedgehogs undertaking us on the hard shoulder.

The tyre “centre”, however, was a bit of a surprise. It was a van, with broken wing mirrors drooping like dislocated limbs, parked on a road in an industrial part of town. In the back of the vehicle was squeezed a contraption capable of removing tyres from their hubs, another for balancing wheels. Oh, and the tyre that we would be purchasing was second-hand. We had no choice. Some two-and-a-half hours later (there were others in the same predicament ahead of us in the queue), we were on our way again. Our old tyre added to a pile by the repair truck.
 
Now we had a hard deadline for completing this second day of driving – a place on a ferry departing from Barcelona that evening. But even with the lost time, we would still be at the port two hours before it departed. Except that, after a few kilometres on the motorway, we hit a diversion. All the traffic was being siphoned off to a road that, judging by the satnav, would take us cross country – and for some distance. Back to Google, “Protesting French farmers are blocking the highway.”

Over the next two hours, we eased along narrow tracks, drove convoy style through forests and saw villages that I dearly hope never to see again. Every time that it looked like we might be about to rejoin the highway, the slipway was barricaded by bags of manure and piles of old tyres (I have a suspicion of who might have been supplying the farmers). Though not a single person was defending the barriers – there wasn’t a rustic rebel bearing a muscular arm and a pitchfork in sight.
 
Finally, there was a tyre-free motorway access point but by now the satnav said that we would arrive in Barcelona port only 35 minutes before the ship left and our ticket said that you needed to be there 90 minutes ahead of schedule. “We can do this,” said the other half bravely, before adding, “but no coffee stops, no loo breaks”. I looked at the dog. We crossed our legs.
 
And so, we drove. We wove. We began to make up time. We crossed the border into Spain. Signs for the port appeared. The dog’s and my legs were clenched like nut crackers. And, suddenly, there we were on a winter night in Barcelona joining the back of a line of cars snaking into the belly of a ferry. In the cabin we opened a bottle of champagne.

To read more columns by Andrew Tuck, click here.

Berlin’s authorities struggled to disguise their helplessness after an arson attack on a cable bridge on 3 January that plunged parts of the city into darkness and cold. Many neighbourhoods were left without electricity or heating for days and with winter temperatures well below seasonal norms, the timing could hardly have been worse. Several hospitals were forced to be evacuated and schools faced closures.

A left-wing, extremist anarchist group claimed responsibility for the fire, framing the attack as part of a global struggle against “climate destruction, digitalisation, artificial intelligence, the arms industry and capitalism”. It said that it sought to disrupt the lives of the city’s wealthy residents, later conceding that cutting power, heating, warm water and even mobile-phone reception for approximately 100,000 people went far beyond its intent, issuing apologies to less well-off Berliners.

For many Germans, the attack was an unsettling reminder of how brittle the systems underpinning everyday urban life have become. Yet the blackout resonated for reasons that go beyond infrastructure and highlighted the country’s increasingly deep-seated divisions.

Merz during a cabinet meeting in the Berlin Chancellery (Image: Imago/Alamy)

After the collapse of the so-called “traffic-light” coalition between the Greens, Social Democrats and liberal FDP in 2024, Friedrich Merz, leader of the Christian Democratic Union, promised a Neuanfang – a fresh start intended to stitch the country back together. Instead, Germany’s political fault lines appear to have widened.

This week the far-right Alternative für Deutschland (AfD) party topped national opinion polls, a sobering marker in postwar German politics. Merz, meanwhile, has struggled to command authority beyond his core electorate. His approval rating stands at just 22 per cent – the lowest of any chancellor in the country’s history and hardly the profile of a conciliator.

To critics on the left, Merz is the embodiment of corporate privilege: a wealthy former Blackrock executive perceived to be out of touch from everyday realities. To the right, he is dismissed as hesitant and insufficiently conservative; too attached to the centrist consensus to address cultural anxieties but accused of borrowing the AfD’s rhetoric without offering a coherent agenda of his own.

The arson attack also exposes a long-standing blind spot in German politics. While the nation has invested heavily in confronting right-wing extremism, violence from the far left has not been dealt with in the same way. This asymmetry is rooted in the fear that taking a firmer stance against the radical left could fracture alliances that are deemed essential in the wider struggle against the radical right.

In a country already anxious about economic stagnation, ageing infrastructure and geopolitical vulnerability – compounded by fears of foreign sabotage, particularly from Russia – this selective vigilance deepens the impression that control is slipping. Merz attempted to counter that narrative in his New Year’s address, insisting that “We are not victims of circumstance. We are no one’s geopolitical plaything. Our hands are not tied. We are responsible for our own security and we live in a safe country.”

Germany’s strength, he added, rests “on social cohesion, above all”. But a recent study by the Technical University of Dresden suggests that such cohesion is in short supply. More than four in five Germans say that they perceive the nation as being deeply divided. Yet the research also offers an interesting insight: beneath the rhetoric of polarisation, many positions remain less entrenched than public debate implies.

The tone, however, has indeed hardened. Whether Merz can translate reassurance into resolve will depend, in no small part, on his own – something that he has previously struggled to find. His response to moments such as Berlin’s blackout will shape not only his legacy as a leader but Germany’s ability to steady itself at a time when solidarity has become both the nation’s most invoked ideal and its rarest resource.

“The last straw was when gangs started holding up ambulances.” That’s what a Venezuelan ambulance driver told me eight years ago, while queuing with his family in front of a church in Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago, waiting to process an asylum claim. Hijackers put a gun to his head and made him an unwitting chauffeur. He fled soon after.

His story – and those of several other Venezuelans I met on that 2018 reporting trip – have been at the front of my mind as Latin American heads of state have condemned the US operation to extract Nicolás Maduro. Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Mexico, Spain and Uruguay issued a joint statement insisting that the region remains a “zone of peace” and appealed to the United Nations Charter. Their top diplomats made forceful speeches denouncing the White House’s unilateral action at hastily convened meetings of the Organization of American States and the UN Security Council, citing the principles of territorial sovereignty, non-intervention and international law.

Up against the wall: US intervention sets up a pivotal moment for Latin America
Up against the wall: US intervention sets up a pivotal moment for Latin America (Image: Getty)

I put this rhetoric to one of the Venezuelans I met in Trinidad and Tobago, who fled after participation in opposition protests put a target on his back. “The ends justify the means,” he said, countering that none of Washington’s critics succeeded in ousting Maduro after his 2013 rise turned dictatorial. Every peaceful means had been exhausted, he added, from street protests to sanctions.

Thus, the Trump administration’s deployment of the Monroe Doctrine’s Theodore Roosevelt Corollary. As Roosevelt put it in 1904, “Chronic wrongdoing… may in America, as elsewhere, ultimately require intervention by some civilized nation.” There’s a strong case that Maduro is guilty of chronic wrongdoing, presiding over an economy in shambles ravaged by hyperinflation and stealing the 2024 election. Though whether the US is capable of – or even wants to – restore a prosperous democracy buoyed by oil wealth is entirely opaque.

What’s clear is that diplomacy has failed in a region that prides itself on a nearly impeccable track record of avoiding armed conflict between states. But what could we have done differently and what can we do now instead?

Brazil’s Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva thought that he was playing tough in 2024 by vetoing Venezuela’s Brics ascension after Maduro refused to release election records. A reasonable diplomatic censure but hardly one that would evict Maduro from Caracas. Even Bolsonaro didn’t exceed the Biden administration’s tepid pressure campaign. As the US amassed an armada in the Caribbean, Latin America’s most powerful military could have mustered a larger force on its 2,200km shared border with Venezuela and tipped the scales for Maduro to have accepted a comfortable exile in Turkey or Qatar.

But hypotheticals make for easy punditry, so here’s a next step that puts a novel spin on Mexican president Claudia Sheinbaum’s mantra “co-operation yes, subordination and intervention no.” She should reverse course and invite the US military to conduct air strikes on fentanyl factories, provided that the Mexican armed forces can join in and learn from their northern counterparts on how to wage a more effective war against the cartels. Invite other countries struggling with narco violence, such as Colombia, Ecuador and Peru, and you have the makings of a reconstituted Inter-American Peace Force, the multilateral unit deployed to quell the Dominican Republic’s 1965 civil war.

The prospect would be a hard pill to swallow for the region’s diplomats but it will win hearts and minds among beleaguered citizens craving action over abstraction.

Gregory Scruggs is Monocle’s Seattle correspondent. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.

For five decades, Syrians were reminded of their despotic rulers every time they reached into their wallets. The faces of Bashar al-Assad and his father, Hafez, adorned banknotes, which, since the currency crashed under sanctions, Syrians have been forced to carry around in huge stacks. Now, however, they are getting a fresh start, with new notes that have had two zeros removed from their nominal value: each new Syrian pound is worth a hundred old ones. The central bank began issuing the redesigned notes on 4 January, the first working day of 2026. The move is a promising sign for the long-suffering country.
  
The change of currency will bring psychological relief to Syrians. The Assads were omnipresent through the pictures of them that were hung on public buildings and stared down from behind every shop counter. Those images were removed and defaced after Bashar al-Assad fled the country for Moscow in December 2024, bringing his family’s 54-year dictatorship to an end. The new notes will remove a lingering reminder of the old regime – and turn the old notes into collectors’ items.

Syria’s old (left) and new banknotes
Cash out: Syria’s old (left) and new banknotes (Image: Nabiaha al Taha/Anadolu via Getty Images)

Crucially, the move is an important step in stabilising the economy. The almost 14-year civil war plunged most Syrians below the poverty line and wrecked what was once a middle-income economy (the World Bank reclassified the country as low-income in 2018). Profiteers with regime connections sucked much of the wealth from Syria throughout the war and billions in assets were spirited out of the country by Assad before he fled. Thankfully, the new rulers managed to protect the Central Bank’s vaults from looters during the chaotic transfer of power.  
  
Embargoes that were aimed at punishing the regime inflicted extra pain on the population, particularly after 2019, when the US imposed measures in response to evidence of the industrial torture and murder taking place in Assad’s prisons. The lifting of international sanctions has brought foreign investment back into the country and the promise of US, Turkish and Gulf backing has boosted confidence. In June the government hiked public service salaries by 200 per cent, though the price of bread and fuel has also increased significantly. With much of the nation’s housing stock destroyed, rents in the capital remain sky high.  
  
Obstacles are to be expected but the signs for Syria are positive. On Tuesday, Israel and Syria agreed to set up a joint mechanism for de-escalation and intelligence-sharing during US-mediated talks. It was an extraordinary step towards normalising relations. If the talks continue, Syria will be one of the few states in the Arab Middle East to maintain relations with Israel.  

Entrepreneurs and businesses might soon be able to move beyond cash too, as the EU and US sanctions that severed the nation from international payment systems were lifted last month. Facilitating electronic transfers will be key to allowing businesses to begin operating fully again in 2026, particularly for those traders who brought Syrian products to much of the Middle East before 2011.
  
It’s quite the turnaround. Until Assad’s fall, Syria was firmly part of the Russia-China-Iran power bloc that Donald Trump now appears to have in his sights. Venezuela, like Assad’s Syria, fell within that sphere of influence until US special forces moved into Caracas on 3 January. Syrians watching events in Latin America and the ongoing protests in Iran will be relieved that their country has moved firmly into Washington’s sphere – and looking forward to the year ahead with a rare sense of optimism and opportunity.
  
Hannah Lucinda Smith is Monocle’s Istanbul correspondent.  She joined a flight from Istanbul packed with returnees and Turkish investors just after the fall of Bashar al-Assad to discover how the nation’s future is shaping up. You can watch the film  here.

Read next: The effort to rebuild Syria: Life after the fall of the Assad regime

Every September the Westfalenhallen conference venue – known for darts tournaments and dog shows – is transformed into Intertabac, the world’s largest tobacco fair. It is billed as a “global meeting place of the industry” – a space to clear the air over how the market worth more than €1trn annually is plotted, priced and branded for acceptability over the year ahead.

The crowd is a curious mix: cigar purists in linen jackets, vape bros in streetwear and a small army of tight-lipped lobbyists huddled in side rooms over Powerpoint decks on FDA rulings and EU directives, muttering about the possibility of a UN plastics treaty.

It’s a strange and sometimes unsettling scene when you consider the proven ill effects of much of what is sold here (and the questions around what is yet to be proven). Cohiba cigars from Cuba are displayed as if they are objets d’art, start-ups peddle candy-flavoured vape juice from neon booths (Grandma’s Apple Pie, anyone?) and nicotine pouches are branded like wellness products. But something is strangely absent: the condemned ancestor to the smoking industry – cigarettes. 

The nicotine market is undergoing its biggest rethink in decades. At British American Tobacco, the manufacturer of Pall Mall and Lucky Strike, an aspirational banner unironically declares “Building a smokeless world”. The company unveils an e-cigarette with an app that tracks every puff and allows users to fine-tune their vapour clouds with a feature cheerfully called Cloudcontrol. “You can even set a limit for when it stops,” says representative Joshua Bakker, pitching self-quantifying nicotine intake with the breeziness of a clued-up personal trainer.

Next door, Philip Morris International (PMI) is showing off the newest iteration of its Iqos device – the name being an abbreviation for “I quit ordinary smoking” – now with a touchscreen and a pause mode that is “perfect for when the pizza guy arrives,” says spokeswoman Beate Kunz. The company has poured some $14bn (€11.96bn) into the device’s development over the past two decades and its research effort is still largely bankrolled by Marlboro sales. Iqos, Kunz says, is designed to be about 95 per cent less harmful than traditional cigarettes because it heats tobacco rather than burning it. PMI, however, has no plans to end the sale of cigarettes. “Pulling the plug overnight would just tank our business while competitors keep selling – we wouldn’t have ‘saved’ a single smoker,” she adds.

A smoke-free future is marketed as a moral project but it’s also a business plan. The gadgets on display at the fair are proof of strategy. With cigarette sales shrinking across major markets due to higher taxes and growing stigma, Big Tobacco has found in vapes and heated-tobacco devices not only fresh profits but a new narrative to cast itself as part of the solution rather than the problem. Its fiercest rival isn’t other tobacco brands but Elfbar, the Chinese vaping powerhouse. Its candy-coloured, highlighter-like devices are banned in its home market but in Europe, the company is doubling down with even more flavour blends planned for next year, its distributor tells Monocle.

Some countries, including the Netherlands, have already banned flavoured liquids – a move that Philip Drögemüller, head of the German lobbying group Alliance for Tobacco-Free Enjoyment, calls a serious mistake. “Flavours are what get adult smokers to switch in the first place and banning them just fuels the illegal market,” he says. It’s a persuasive point, though one that conveniently ignores the reality that the same fruit and candy flavours are what make vaping so appealing to teenagers. Drögemüller cites his own success story. “I quit smoking after 20 years because of vaping. Fruit liquids made me lose the craving for tobacco completely. There really is no good political reason not to support it.”

Behind the glossy booths, side rooms hum with strategy sessions where lobbyists and executives plot their next moves. Panels with titles such as “Switching evidence on trial” and “Navigating the EU tobacco product directive” parse rulings, court cases and the next rounds regulation. There is talk of whether filters could be banned entirely under new environmental rules, what the UN plastics treaty might mean for cigarette butts and how to keep flavoured products in circulation despite looming restrictions. It feels a bit like a crisis summit where the industry quietly co-ordinates its survival strategy, trying to stay one step ahead of regulators.

The fight is no longer just about profits but about legitimacy and the industry’s right to remain a serious voice in policy debates even as its core product faces mounting political and social pressure. At the fair’s opening press conference, associations struck a combative tone, warning that planned tax hikes would push smokers to the black market, drain state coffers and wipe out mid-sized manufacturers. Germany, for example, is preparing to align with new EU rules by raising its comparatively low cigar tax by as much as 1,000 per cent. “That is nothing short of a war of annihilation by the EU Commission against our industry,” says Bodo Mehrlein of the German Cigar Manufacturers Association.

The shift is rippling through the entire smoking ecosystem. Zippo, the lighter brand that kept generations of GIs and rockabilly kids flicking, now offers a vape insert that slips neatly into any classic case. OCB, best known for its rolling papers, is reorienting toward cannabis smokers, partly because roll-your-own tobacco faces a steep tax hike. Even Nuremberg-based heritage pipe maker Vauen reports that its Lord of the Rings-style churchwardens (the very kind used in the films) are now its most popular line, beloved by cannabis smokers for the same reason hobbits prized them: you can sit back and puff in peace.

There are hi-tech twists on old rituals too. Air, calling itself the “global leader in social inhalation”, presents a coal-free shisha device: Nespresso-style capsules slot in and an NFC chip adjusts the heat profile to the chosen flavour for a perfectly calibrated draw. Nearby, Dr Karsten Behlke unveils what he calls the first true pocket-sized shisha. “Our development actually comes from medicine,” says the lawyer-turned-entrepreneur. “It’s a genuine shisha that uses real tobacco – no vape liquid like the fake ones.” Rather than burning the tobacco, the device heats an air stream, cutting out many of the harmful by-products still present in vapes and water pipes. “But the main selling point is really the size. Most shisha smokers aren’t exactly worried about their health,” says Behlke.

The newest star of the so-called “reduced-risk” market is the nicotine pouch – banned in some countries, barely regulated in others and a clear darling of this year’s fair. “The market is exploding,” says a Chinese manufacturer of pouch-making machines. “In Europe, you currently have to wait a year for a new machine. We can deliver it in two months.” Exhibitors tout faster nicotine hits with lower doses that “bring flavours to life and improve mouthfeel” while others present “pouches designed with your mouth in mind”. Panels promise insights into “smooth, satisfying nicotine delivery over 45 minutes” and strategies for “where the oral nicotine market is headed – and how to stay ahead of the curve”.

With cigarettes barely visible on the show floor, you might think the coffin lid has been nailed shut – but not quite. Esse, a super-slim cigarette brand from South Korea that has sold nearly a trillion sticks since its 1996 debut, has just expanded to Germany. “Demand is on the rise,” says Christopher Lim of Korean tobacco giant KT&G Corporation, the label’s producer. At the fair’s own Intertabac Stars award show, it was crowned cigarette of the year. “Cigarettes still command a considerable market share, especially outside Europe,” says Atanas Doychinov of KT International, the Bulgarian outfit born from the state tobacco monopoly. Akin to other manufacturers who will only say so off-record, KT International is looking toward rapidly growing markets in Africa and Asia-Pacific. “We’ll see a big increase in these developing markets throughout the next few years,” adds Doychinov. Why no vapes? “For us, as an independent company, it’s too risky to put large investments in a market that is still fairly unregulated,” he says. “We‘ll wait until things are sorted out.” The “smoke-free future”, it turns out, might still be a long way off.

Clearing the air
With more than 800 exhibitors from 70 countries, Intertabac bills itself as the world’s largest trade fair for all things tobacco – from cigars and rolling papers to vapes and new gadgets. This year, though, the headlines weren’t only about product launches: port authorities uncovered a record number of tax violations. According to Dortmund’s customs office, 22 exhibitors were caught with untaxed goods – a sharp rise from just five in 2019. “In one hall we charged everyone,” a spokesperson says, noting that seizures included cigarettes, rolling tobacco, e-cigarettes and liquids. Criminal proceedings have been opened for tax evasion and approximately €59,000 in security deposits were collected on the spot.

After US forces captured Nicolás Maduro, members of the Venezuelan diaspora in Brazil gathered in central São Paulo to celebrate the downfall of a man widely seen as corrupt, brutal and dictatorial. The occasion was joined by many Brazilians, particularly those from the right, who have long lamented the degradation of once-wealthy Venezuela under Maduro and his socialist predecessor, Hugo Chávez.

The impromptu celebrations, however, were at odds with the prevailing political climate across much of Latin America, where leaders expressed shock over the White House’s casual readiness to intervene in the region. Not only was the operation against Maduro an affront to national sovereignty but it raised the spectre of military conflict in a region that – despite its many other problems – has for decades been peaceful at the nation-state level.

Sign of the times: Protestor outside the US Consulate General in Rio de Janeiro
Sign of the times: Protestor outside the US Consulate General in Rio de Janeiro (Image: Mauro Pimentel/AFP via Getty Images)

In Brazil, president Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva condemned the intervention as crossing an “unacceptable line” and the “first step toward a world of violence, chaos and instability.” But it was Gabriel Boric, the outgoing leader in Chile, who addressed the elephant in the room: “Today, it’s Venezuela. Tomorrow, it could be anyone.” He pointed out that the US’s blatant coveting of strategic resources is hardly confined to Venezuela. In this case, it is oil. But in Chile, it might be copper, which is essential for AI infrastructure. In Brazil, it could be rare earths, critical for next-generation military technologies. In Paraguay, it might be access to bountiful hydroelectric power for data centres and other digital infrastructure. The list goes on.

The US has a long history of interference in Latin American politics, including the support of brutal Cold War-era military dictatorships in Chile, Argentina, Brazil and elsewhere. The return of gunboat diplomacy and military adventurism in Venezuela is, for many Latin American leaders, a return toward a dark past. And US officials have done little to assuage anyone in the region of such concerns. A day after the Venezuela strikes, Trump told reporters that he liked the idea of a military operation against Colombia, calling left-wing president Gustavo Petro a “sick man”. The US has also openly threatened Cuba and made veiled threats against Mexico. And if the intention of the White House was not clear enough, a cartoon image posted to an X account linked to the US president showed Trump as a colossus standing astride North and South America, brandishing a large baton.

While the prospect of fresh military strikes might currently preoccupy Latin American leaders, another potential avenue for US adventurism in the hemisphere is upcoming elections. This year, Brazil, Peru and Colombia will head to the polls and leaders there will need to be on guard for signs of electoral interference. Argentina, Ecuador, Paraguay, as well as the incoming administration in Chile, are already sympathetic to the Trump White House. If Brazil, Peru and Colombia swing in that direction this year – either with or without interference – Washington will be one step closer to its dreams of overt US hegemony in the Western Hemisphere.

Bryan Harris is a journalist based in São Paulo. You can read more of his pieces here. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.

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