Far from a shopping spree, Pitti puts menswear on a pedestal
It’s a satisfying feat of historical continuity that Florence plays host to Pitti Immagine Uomo (or Pitti for short), the biannual menswear trade fair that concludes today. The Tuscan city first made its fortune in the 12th century by trading wool and later expanding its textile expertise to silk and brocade during the Renaissance.
Since the 1980s, Pitti has been taking place at the sprawling Fortezza da Basso, a former military fortress built by the Medici in the 1530s. It is here that a complex of pavilions is divided into loose themes and given names reminiscent of Eurovision Song Contest entries, including “I Go Out” for the outerwear brands and “Dynamic Attitude” for clothes that fall under the streetwear category. More than 750 brands have participated in the January 2026 edition, more than half of them hailing from Italy.
Pitti acts as a barometer for the attitudinal shifts that can be felt from season to season. This January, the existentialism surrounding Donald Trump’s tariffs and the luxury industry slowdown seems to have dissipated and turned to resolve. German, French and Spanish buyers have been out in force while the US and China no longer represent the market goldmines they once were. Meanwhile, Japan offers a curious case study: while the weak yen means the country’s economic might has somewhat waned, it still yields an outsized influence when it comes to aesthetic sensibility and reputation for excellence. Two of this year’s guest designers, Soshi Otsuki and Shinya Kozuka, are Tokyo-based.
“Pitti is akin to the aperitivo before the men’s fashion weeks in Milan and Paris,” the founder of Paris-based accessories brand Bonastre (below, left), Fernando Bonastre de Celis, tells Monocle when we stop by his booth. “We don’t really receive orders here anymore but it’s a good way to make sure that there’s follow-through later down the line.” Many of the exhibitors echo this sentiment. The days of buyers signing off orders in Florence are almost over but establishing a presence at Pitti remains an important marketing exercise, one that lends prestige within a tightknit community of menswear enthusiasts.
Over a glass of chianti classico at Trattoria Cammillo, a collocutor at the neighbouring table tells me that he’s been coming to Pitti for more than 30 years to find new stock for his family-owned Chicago boutique, Burdi Clothing. Around us, Pitti veterans loudly greet each other over clanging plates. Cream cashmere jumpers remain miraculously unstained despite the copious amount of spaghetti alla carrettiera that is being consumed. Coats perched just-so on men’s shoulders finally come off, a signthat the 109th edition of the fair is approaching its finale. But it is these moments on the well-tailored hems of the trade show that represent Pitti at its best – stylish and besuited men gathering to see, sell and sport quality menswear away from the avant garde runways that dominate the season ahead. And while there has been talk of luxury market headwinds – a thriving Pitti is always an auspicious sign for the industry.
Want to know the spots frequented by Florence’s fashion crowd? Try these restaurants
This is Italy. Any deal worth making should be done correctly, meaning over a bistecca alla fiorentina with copious amounts of chianti classico. But which trattorias attract the Pitti set? Here are three industry favourites.
1.
Il Santo Bevitore
The Tuscan dishes at Il Santo Bevitore (pictured) are reimagined for the 21st century in an atmospheric setting complete with vaulted ceilings and dark-wood panelling. Make sure to stop by the restaurant’s lively enoteca, Il Santino, which is conveniently located next door, for an aperitivo or a digestivo.
Via Santo Spirito, 64/r
+39 55 211264
2.
Trattoria Cammillo
This family-owned restaurant is a year-round favourite of the fashion crowd – and for good reason. The trattoria has been serving up a straightforward menu of reliable Italian dishes including tagliatelle, fried zucchini and scaloppine since it opened its doors in 1945.
Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r
+39 55 212427
3.
Trattoria Sostanza
This pared-back trattoria might be small but it is mighty. Its butter chicken and strawberry-topped meringues have attracted high praise since 1869. Pitti pros know to book a table well in advance.
Via del Porcellana, 25/r
+39 55 212691
