The shows to watch at Milan Fashion Week
The Olympic circus might’ve packed up its skiwear but the arrival of Milan Fashion Week means that the eyes of the world are still on the Lombard capital. Here are the shows to look…
Italy’s style capital barely had time to catch its breath after a triumphant Winter Olympic Games before athletes of a different sort descended on the city: those with the stamina for multiple back-to-back runway shows and a diet of champagne and canapés. Yes, Milan Fashion Week is back. And perhaps more than any other stop on the fashion calendar, Milan is the place to watch for its number of notable debuts.
The past few seasons have been a revolving door of creative directors joining and leaving the major houses – a telling sign of fashion’s uncertain economics. In Paris, the goodwill towards the first collections from Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Jonathan Anderson at Dior hints that steadier times might be ahead. For now, however, Milan is where the next round of appointments will be tested. Here are three brands to watch.
Fendi
One of the most anticipated moves is Maria Grazia Chiuri’s return to Fendi as chief creative officer. Chiuri began her career at the house in the 1990s, working alongside the founding Fendi sisters before making her name at LVMH stablemate Dior, where she reportedly quadrupled sales during her nine-year tenure. The question is whether she can repeat that feat this time around. Wednesday’s show will offer the first clue.
Gucci
Demna, the creative director known for divisive designs and marketing campaigns that nonetheless drove sales at Balenciaga, is already raising eyebrows at his new home, Gucci. Ahead of Friday’s show, the brand has released AI-generated promotional imagery for the collection – a provocation that has split opinion online. The stakes are high for parent company Kering: Gucci’s revenue has roughly halved over the past four years. If the images are anything to go by, Demna will keep making headlines; the test will be whether he can turn noise into desirability at the till.
Marni
Belgian designer Meryll Rogge will present her first collection for Marni on Thursday, undoubtedly with some pressure from owner OTB. Marni garnered a devoted following under previous creative director Francesco Risso, who built a brand known for its wit, playfulness and left-field design. Commercially, however, it has struggled to cut through alongside more mainstream labels. Unlike LVMH and Kering, OTB is betting on a relative newcomer, though Rogge’s eponymous unisex label has been gaining traction thanks to a slew of accolades. Expect a lively mix of colour, craft and sharp tailoring – and watch for how she evolves Marni’s eccentric codes.
