The British Fashion Council’s new CEO wants to give London its groove back
The non-profit organisation’s summer party was held on Tuesday at the Serpentine Pavilion. Laura Weir, who has been leading the council since April, spoke candidly about her goals for the industry.
The annual July gathering of London’s designers, editors and retailers at the Serpentine Gallery’s summer pavilion has been a longtime tradition for the British Fashion Council (BFC). It’s a moment to toast the end of the fashion season before everyone disperses for their month-long Mediterranean holidays.
However, in recent years, designers were noticeably absent and smiles were forced. Conversations revolved around the post-Brexit issues plaguing the UK fashion industry, with some brands having to scale back operations, while others have shut up shop completely or migrated to cities that promise better infrastructure, such as Milan and Paris. Yet this week, when I walked into the Serpentine Pavilion – a long, timber structure by Marina Tabassum – the mood seemed to have shifted. Aside from the upbeat music, flowing rosé and colourful cakes by Sophia Stolz (who cooked in a surrealist Louis Vuitton gown), there appeared to be renewed hope and even excitement that London might finally get its groove back.
The refreshed outlook and ambition shared by Laura Weir, the BFC’s newly appointed CEO, has spurred a change in spirit. Designers clapped with enthusiasm when she announced plans to waive participation fees at London Fashion Week and to double investments in a guest programme that will help bring back international editors, retailers and cultural commentators. As of now, the most important players in the industry have been flying straight to Milan, given the British showcase’s lack of commercial appeal. Weir – a former journalist and editor – is also turning her focus toward education and finding talent beyond the capital. With increased scholarship funding and a new programme that will take established designers back to their old schools throughout the UK, she hopes to show young people living outside London that a career in fashion is possible for them too.
These are all promising first steps – but what truly reignited faith was Weir’s refreshing honesty. She acknowledged that she has been given a “Herculean” task; that the country’s creative sector is in trouble; and that competition is getting stiffer. “I’ve had conversations with government representatives from Hong Kong, India and the Middle East, and what strikes me is how these superpowers are investing in culture as they build their strategic positions on the global stage,” says Weir. “Some are meeting me to find out more about London Fashion Week and then their governments are funding millions of pounds in building their own. They understand that investment in culture leads to the commercial and reputational success of entire nations. We have all of that in spades – the fashion week, the creativity, the ambition – and yet we are losing talent to Paris, Milan and Berlin because of a lack of infrastructure to support our designers.”
To convince the creative crowd to return to London, nurturing up-and-coming brands is no doubt a vital part of the solution. But a greater link-up with the hospitality and design sectors, which will help make “brand London” more appealing, is equally important, as is spending the same amount of effort to support the journalists, photographers, stylists and CEOs working behind the scenes. Weir’s task is not just Herculean – it’s epic.
