Editor’s letter
Our editor in chief introduces our Austria special and reveals what kindled his love for the land.The opener
Disputes over Mozart’s chocolate balls, a Viennese editor who never falters and why the Austrian lifestyle is not always as it seems.Weighing in
Two mavericks still check the mittel-rifts of Austrians with the scales empire. Our correspondent steps on the plate.Trapp door
The family that inspired ‘The Sound of Music’ moved to the US to open a hotel. As Tomos Lewis discovers, even away from Austria the hills are still alive.My cabinet
Almhof Schneider is a fourth-generation hotel in Lech that’s gone from rustic barn to elite destination.Cosy corner
Producers Kruder and Dorfmeister enjoy the peace and quiet of their unique HQ.Austria for beginners
Need to pass for a local? Look no further than our illuminating line-up of facts and anecdotes about this prolific nation. Just don’t forget to drop in a cheeky innuendo or two for good measure.
Out with the old
A nation once known for being at the cultural avant garde is reasserting its revolutionary status.Leading lights
An unlikely coalition government has put Austria on a new path. And even with an illustrious history to maintain, it is moving with the times.Empire strikes back
Georg von Habsburg, son of the last crown prince of Austria-Hungary, still identifies as a Central European. And he believes that his family’s legacy is vital to the region.Flexible friends
Change is coming to Central Europe as liberal-leaning mayors challenge their more autocratic-minded national governments. And Budapest’s Gergely Karacsony is looking to Vienna for inspiration.Growth area
In the small province of Vorarlberg, 26,000 businesses power Austria’s economy. We visit three that flourish among the mountain scenery.Fresh start
Tyrol’s capital Innsbruck is synonymous with idyllic alpine charm but its enterprising mindset makes it fertile ground for budding businesses and energetic entrepreneurs too.Having a ball
Vienna’s world-famous party season has been a feature of life in Austria’s capital for two centuries. We meet the businesses keeping the tradition alive.Radio royalty
Its role is changing but Vienna's Funkhaus remains an icon for broadcasting culture and tradition.Leader of the pack
Transcending the worlds of fashion and music, DJ Wolfram Eckert is bringing Austrian music back into the spotlight. He tells us about his globetrotting adventures.Object lesson
From makers who continually hone their craft to curators who amplify their work, Austria is a world leader in practical and elegant design.Sweet spot
Vienna’s Kaffeekultur is world famous and so are its teeming cake counters. We meet the folk behind the city’s best Mehlspeisen and ask how the capital cornered all things confectionery.Case studies
Austria’s fresh, lower-alcohol wines are at last winning global acclaim. We meet five wine-makers across the nation and offer some suggestions on the best bottles to bring home.Dressing the nation
We always have a little room in our wardrobes for Trachten and Dirndls – but there’s more to Austrian fashion than initially meets the eye. We visit three brands that are putting a new spin on age-old manufacturing traditions.Worth its salt
Crowd-pleasing Salzburg is a city so toothsome that we’re singing its praises too.
Politics Briefing
Austria’s new “super ministry”, a pledge to protect the Arctic and a newly oil-rich nation holds elections.Diplomacy Briefing
Austria’s UK ambassador on life after Brexit, rubbish diplomacy in Canada and Libya’s intractable conflict explained.Defence Briefing
A multi-ethnic memorial in Slovenia, India's new navy and Singapore’s growing air force.Cities Briefing
Croatia’s Kvarner Bay in the limelight, Buenos Aires’ mayor stands his ground and China’s cities experiment with recycling.Business Briefing
Business big-hitters, how Austria’s retail landscape is evolving and selling tea to coffee lovers in Italy.Food & Drink Briefing
Our editor’s global food finds from Toronto to Tokyo and beyond.Fashion Briefing
Tights titan Wolford and our pick of the jumpers to buy this spring.
More than Mozart
Who are the contemporary heirs to Austria’s artistic heroes? From darkly poetic films to specialist record shops, here’s a selection of distinctively Austrian cultural highlights.The Ten
Let there be light: Oklahoma Contemporary is clad in undulating aluminium to reflect the prairie sun and the Sydney Biennale is spotlighting overlooked stories from artists around the world. Plus: Caribou’s most personal album and a new definition of ‘bathroom reading’.Key openings
A launch in Kuala Lumpur, an art-filled guesthouse in Geneva, and an Austrian hotelier on the up – here is our selection of intriguing new places to lay your head.
Steely resolve
A once-overlooked industrial city, Linz has become a hub for art and architecture.South facing
How Graz marries world-class culture and architecture with a relaxed, Mediterranean vibe.Top of the shops
Too many nations have lost touch with their craft and manufacturing heritage, but Austria’s hands-on culture is clear from its products. Here we eye up a few highlights and tasteful takehomes, from ceramics to Styrian gin.
Why Austria? This smallish landlocked central European nation is quietly offering global lessons in everything from diplomacy to design (not to mention around the dining table). Our dedicated special takes an in-depth looking into everything from its Alpine attractions to entrepreneurial clout and hands-on craft culture. Our journalists unlock everything from how the Habsburg’s changed history to hospitality and fresh lessons for the rest of the world.
Issue 131
March 2020
At the front
Editor’s letter
Our editor in chief introduces our Austria special and reveals what kindled his love for the land.The opener
Disputes over Mozart’s chocolate balls, a Viennese editor who never falters and why the Austrian lifestyle is not always as it seems.Weighing in
Two mavericks still check the mittel-rifts of Austrians with the scales empire. Our correspondent steps on the plate.Trapp door
The family that inspired ‘The Sound of Music’ moved to the US to open a hotel. As Tomos Lewis discovers, even away from Austria the hills are still alive.My cabinet
Almhof Schneider is a fourth-generation hotel in Lech that’s gone from rustic barn to elite destination.Cosy corner
Producers Kruder and Dorfmeister enjoy the peace and quiet of their unique HQ.Austria for beginners
Need to pass for a local? Look no further than our illuminating line-up of facts and anecdotes about this prolific nation. Just don’t forget to drop in a cheeky innuendo or two for good measure.
Report
Out with the old
A nation once known for being at the cultural avant garde is reasserting its revolutionary status.Leading lights
An unlikely coalition government has put Austria on a new path. And even with an illustrious history to maintain, it is moving with the times.Empire strikes back
Georg von Habsburg, son of the last crown prince of Austria-Hungary, still identifies as a Central European. And he believes that his family’s legacy is vital to the region.Flexible friends
Change is coming to Central Europe as liberal-leaning mayors challenge their more autocratic-minded national governments. And Budapest’s Gergely Karacsony is looking to Vienna for inspiration.Growth area
In the small province of Vorarlberg, 26,000 businesses power Austria’s economy. We visit three that flourish among the mountain scenery.Fresh start
Tyrol’s capital Innsbruck is synonymous with idyllic alpine charm but its enterprising mindset makes it fertile ground for budding businesses and energetic entrepreneurs too.Having a ball
Vienna’s world-famous party season has been a feature of life in Austria’s capital for two centuries. We meet the businesses keeping the tradition alive.Radio royalty
Its role is changing but Vienna's Funkhaus remains an icon for broadcasting culture and tradition.Leader of the pack
Transcending the worlds of fashion and music, DJ Wolfram Eckert is bringing Austrian music back into the spotlight. He tells us about his globetrotting adventures.Object lesson
From makers who continually hone their craft to curators who amplify their work, Austria is a world leader in practical and elegant design.Sweet spot
Vienna’s Kaffeekultur is world famous and so are its teeming cake counters. We meet the folk behind the city’s best Mehlspeisen and ask how the capital cornered all things confectionery.Case studies
Austria’s fresh, lower-alcohol wines are at last winning global acclaim. We meet five wine-makers across the nation and offer some suggestions on the best bottles to bring home.Dressing the nation
We always have a little room in our wardrobes for Trachten and Dirndls – but there’s more to Austrian fashion than initially meets the eye. We visit three brands that are putting a new spin on age-old manufacturing traditions.Worth its salt
Crowd-pleasing Salzburg is a city so toothsome that we’re singing its praises too.
Briefing
Politics Briefing
Austria’s new “super ministry”, a pledge to protect the Arctic and a newly oil-rich nation holds elections.Diplomacy Briefing
Austria’s UK ambassador on life after Brexit, rubbish diplomacy in Canada and Libya’s intractable conflict explained.Defence Briefing
A multi-ethnic memorial in Slovenia, India's new navy and Singapore’s growing air force.Cities Briefing
Croatia’s Kvarner Bay in the limelight, Buenos Aires’ mayor stands his ground and China’s cities experiment with recycling.Business Briefing
Business big-hitters, how Austria’s retail landscape is evolving and selling tea to coffee lovers in Italy.Food & Drink Briefing
Our editor’s global food finds from Toronto to Tokyo and beyond.Fashion Briefing
Tights titan Wolford and our pick of the jumpers to buy this spring.
Affairs
Other
More than Mozart
Who are the contemporary heirs to Austria’s artistic heroes? From darkly poetic films to specialist record shops, here’s a selection of distinctively Austrian cultural highlights.The Ten
Let there be light: Oklahoma Contemporary is clad in undulating aluminium to reflect the prairie sun and the Sydney Biennale is spotlighting overlooked stories from artists around the world. Plus: Caribou’s most personal album and a new definition of ‘bathroom reading’.Key openings
A launch in Kuala Lumpur, an art-filled guesthouse in Geneva, and an Austrian hotelier on the up – here is our selection of intriguing new places to lay your head.
Shoot
Inventory
Steely resolve
A once-overlooked industrial city, Linz has become a hub for art and architecture.South facing
How Graz marries world-class culture and architecture with a relaxed, Mediterranean vibe.Top of the shops
Too many nations have lost touch with their craft and manufacturing heritage, but Austria’s hands-on culture is clear from its products. Here we eye up a few highlights and tasteful takehomes, from ceramics to Styrian gin.
Expo
