Though there’s something to be said for the thrill of the new, Japan’s penchant for demolition over renovation has too often contributed to the demise of atmospheric buildings. But now fashion retailers are taking a stand by repurposing old structures and applying the same level of craft to their shops’ interiors as they do to their products. As an antidote to bland malls and online shopping, it’s helping to reinvigorate bricks-and-mortar retail.

Here are three recent openings in different parts of the country that celebrate the patina of older properties that have, in their own quiet ways, contributed to the stories of their respective cities. We expect to see other brands, in Japan and beyond, following in their footsteps this year, as more customers seek meaningful shopping experiences and turn away from their screens. — L

Craft is at the heart of Hiroki Nakamura’s much-loved menswear label, Visvim. His uncompromising approach to making clothes, mostly in Japan, extends to his shops too. For his Ginza flagship, he revived a 1930s building, while his Kyoto shop is full of traditional styling details. His latest retail project, located inside a pre-war British bank in the industrial city of Kobe, highlights Japanese heritage even further, making it an essential stop in design enthusiasts’ itineraries for 2025.

The solid structure sits on Kaigandori Street, which was once at the heart of the city’s Foreign Settlement that newcomers poured into in the 19th century, when Japan opened up to the outside world. The new shop makes the most of the existing interior and its revolving wooden doors, double-height ceilings and tall windows. There are also some subtle, custom-made additions, such as a pale-green Oya stone counter, glass display cabinets and fusuma sliding doors made with a traditional dyeing technique.

Customers will find a full range of pieces from Visvim and wmv, Nakamura’s womenswear offering, as well as refreshments from Little Cloud Coffee. There’s no better place to appreciate the pre-loved, artful quality that Visvim is known for.
visvim.tv

The Kyushu city of Fukuoka is where you’ll find the latest outpost of Tokyo leather shoe and accessories brand Hender Scheme. Its founder, Ryo Kashiwazaki, has already shown in Tokyo and Osaka that he favours an interior style that allows the character and history of a building to shine through. The cerebral designer prefers to layer new elements over existing features – “adding rather than renovating”, as he puts it. The new space in Fukuoka is in a former saké shop that’s refreshingly unremarkable. It’s the kind of building that makes up the fabric of this Japanese city and would usually be demolished without a second thought. But Kashiwazaki saw its potential and made it his own.

Hender Scheme has been expanding organically, both in scale and breadth. What first gained traction as a homage project, with Tokyo shoemakers reworking famous trainer models, has matured into a much larger brand. Fans wait for new releases such as the Morgan, a loafer, or the Shoes Bag, a leather tote that incorporates the sole of a shoe. The brand also has a repair workshop in Tokyo and runs a gallery space. The Fukuoka branch looks set to build on that expansive vision. With an outdoor space and a counter that serves juice and wine, it was always going to be more than just a shop.
henderscheme.com

On paper, the location of Paris-based label Lemaire’s new Tokyo flagship – a 1960s house on a residential street in Ebisu – might seem like an offbeat choice. The steady stream of people visiting it, however, suggests that opening a unique shop away from conventional retail locations can pay off. Formerly occupied by a professor, the two-storey, East-meets-West villa has proven to be the perfect fit for Lemaire, beautifully complementing co-designers Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran’s pared-back clothing.

Architect Yuichi Hashimura refreshed and gently adapted the interior without erasing the sense that this was once someone’s home. The utilitarian kitchen is still in place, as are the low doorframes; the tatami mats, however, have been replaced by soft carpet. Instead of more typical shop fittings, Lemaire and Tran chose traditional plaster walls, handmade bamboo blinds and sliding shoji paper screens. You’ll also find art books and objects, carefully selected by Makoto Kobayashi, the owner of Tokyo gallery-shop Out of Museum. These add to the residential mood. In the Japanese garden outside, a couple of chairs look inviting in the winter sun. It’s a pleasure to shop here and most visitors will want to linger.
lemaire.fr