Thursday 14 November 2024 - Monocle Minute | Monocle

Thursday. 14/11/2024

The Monocle Minute

The Opinion

Hospitality / Josh Fehnert

Being hospitable isn’t about obsequiousness; it’s about manners. A London restaurateur’s outburst exposes the tension between chefs and diners

Hospitality headlines rarely offer too much to reflect on but this week a London chef has tongues wagging for something other than his food. Hugh Corcoran, chef at the recently opened The Yellow Bittern, a 18-cover bookshop-cum-restaurant on London’s Caledonian Road, took to social media to break the golden rule of good hospitality and roundly berate his customers.

His concern? The chef has bemoaned people with the audacity to share mains, drink tap water and generally scrimp on their lunchtime repast. He wants you to arrive hungry – a fair wish and probably one with which most chefs and restaurateurs agree. But it’s the side of sneering that’s really riled the critics and assured the irate column inches.

It remains to be seen whether Corcoran’s ill-tempered outburst will be the death knell for his fledgling business or its calling card (either is possible). His brusqueness may yet make the simmering Ulsterman a martyr for the culinary cause or become a playful attraction to diners. Perhaps being scolded by a chef who tries to sneak an expensive red onto the bill or pressgang you into ordering an extra pudding might become a jovial rite of passage. This all depends on tempting fickle customers through the door in the first place. Once Bittern, twice shy? We’ll soon see.

Corcoran’s point about how some customers behave may be hard to swallow but it’s well worth considering. Good independent restaurants do need to be reframed as businesses that deserve support; as do the perennially underpaid and overworked people who ply their trade in them. In a world where many feel entitled to loaf around all day on a laptop conducting tedious meetings for the price of a coffee, it’s worth remembering the hard work and meagre margins that underpin most of the places we love to visit. We’d miss them if they went under. The bit Corcoran missed? Good manners cost nothing.

Josh Fehnert is Monocle editor. For more opinion, analysis and insights, subscribe to Monocle today.

The Briefings

On the ground: Police in Port-au-Prince

Image: Getty Images

AFFAIRS / HAITI

No end in sight for violence in Haiti as gunfire hits planes in gang-run Port-au-Prince

The US and several airlines have suspended all flights to Haiti after gunfire hit planes attempting to land in and leave Port-au-Prince. Businessman Alix Didier Fils-Aimé, who was appointed on Monday as Haiti’s new interim prime minister, has promised to wrest back control from the gangs that reportedly run more than 80 per cent of the capital.

His post follows a short and disastrous term for former UN official Garry Conille, whose appointment seems to have fuelled greater unrest among a population that is tired of interventionist governments. “At no point has Haiti been allowed to elect its own leaders,” Rosa Freedman, professor of law, conflict and global development at the University of Reading, tells The Monocle Minute. “When there have been free and fair elections, the international community has intervened and placed puppet leaders in their place.” With yet another unelected leader taking power, it is unclear how Haiti can break the cycle of violence.

Come on in: Loro Piana's Bloor Street shop

Image: Loro Piana

RETAIL / Canada

Loro Piana ends 2024 in bullish mood with Toronto openings and London takeover

Italian luxury label Loro Piana is seeing out the year with a series of ambitious retail investments, including the opening of two shops in Toronto – marking its debut in Canada. The first boutique is inside the Yorkdale Shopping Centre, while the second is on Bloor Street, a sought-after destination that hosts shops from the likes of Prada, Gucci and Brunello Cucinelli. The Bloor Street flagship is covered in the glazed ceramic tiles that are also a key feature in Loro Piana outlets in the Dubai Mall and on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles.

Earlier in the month the label’s CEO, Damien Bertrand, was in London to inaugurate a takeover of street-facing windows at department store Harrods to mark the Italian label’s 100th birthday. It’s a surprising yet welcome move by the brand, known for its logo-free designs and discreet approach to marketing. “We can be quiet but we don’t need to be silent,” Bertrand tells Monocle.

Look out for an interview with Damien Bertrand in our December/January double issue, which will be on newsstands on 28 November. Subscribe now to have the magazine sent directly to your door.

Current thinking: The X Shore Bowrider 1

Image: X SHORE

TRANSPORT / SWEDEN

Launch of zero-emission boat could be the first in a wave of sustainable water transport

With popular waterways such as Lake Como tightening regulations on polluters, boat builders are having to shift towards more environmentally friendly products. One such firm with its bow ahead of the pack is Swedish sustainable boat builder X Shore, which will launch its latest model, the Bowrider 1, this week. Made from glass fibre and carbon fibre, it boasts a modular design with adjustable deck space, flexible seating and retractable awnings. And its electricity-powered, zero-emission propulsion provides a silent and water-friendly ride that surpasses international navigation standards.

“Boat makers must play a leading role in advancing sustainable marine technology,” X Shore CEO René Hansen tells Monocle. “We demonstrate that high performance and luxury can be achieved while preserving and protecting our waters for future generations.” If the Bowrider 1 proves successful, it is sure to encourage other manufacturers to follow in X Shore’s slipstream – and consumers and governments alike might find themselves in a buoyant mood.

Beyond the Headlines

Image: Shilpika Gautam

Q&A / Shilpika Gautam

How paddleboarding in the Ganges inspired this CEO to get climate finance flowing

Shilpika Gautam is the founder and CEO of Opna, a greentech company that helps businesses with removing carbon and supporting communities. As the ongoing Cop29 conference in Baku highlights the work that needs to be done across the global climate-finance market, Monocle caught up with Gautam to talk about Opna’s origins and how everybody can do their part.

How did Opna start?
It’s a strange story. After six years working on the trading floor, I started to wonder where I wanted to place my energy. On a whim, I took up paddleboarding in London and soon decided to return to India to paddle the Ganges [where Gautam set a then-world record for the longest-recorded paddleboard journey]. However, I became concerned that despite how sacred the river is to locals, it’s one of the dirtiest on the planet. This raised the question that gave Opna its start: how do we get finances flowing through here to help?

Climate finance is an increasingly important topic in global markets. What are some improvements that can be made in this period of pre-regulation?
Lots of companies are trying to get ahead of this, and in terms of metrics, many are following science-based targets for lowering emissions. There are certainly some leaders, such as Microsoft or Google. But it’s ultimately a case of learning by doing. The actions and initiatives being started need to be scalable and they need funding. Currently, if you ask 20 companies what high-quality and high-integrity action looks like, you’ll get 15 different answers. The one thing everyone should agree on though, is no greenwashing. That’s key.

What would your message be to someone who wants to help but is unable to implement these changes by themselves?
It’s easy to feel overwhelmed and powerless when looking at climate crises on your own. Our markets have not done the right job of educating people, so scepticism is understandable. The best thing to do is to look at the companies you work for, to ask questions about actions and expenditure. Ultimately, all of this is a movement – and movements require the momentum of many little voices.

Image: Anna Nielsen

Monocle Radio / Monocle on Design

Dubai Design Week

Nic Monisse recaps highlights from the 10th iteration of Dubai Design Week, an event that continues to cement the city’s status as the region’s design hub.

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