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As the countdown to Christmas begins in earnest, we order up some hearty German fare at the new restaurant in Berlin’s Clärchens Ballhaus. Then we bed down at an Alpine escape in the Bregenzerwald and make merry with a South Tyrolean hotelier’s hot apple gin. Plus: hosting tips with a Dutch interior designer and how spiced poached pears can bring cheer to your culinary creations. First in line, Tyler Brûlé on why it’s not always better to be safe than sorry.
The Faster Lane / Tyler Brûlé
It will come as little surprise that I’m not a fan of “trigger warnings” and “safe spaces”, particularly when the audience is over 18 and we’re talking about editorial comments, lectures and generally getting out of bed and into the big wide world. Are we particularly surprised that there’s been a spike in mental-health issues in many G7 nations when various forces have chosen to treat young adults like infants and shelter them from conflict, debate, different ideas and life in general? I didn’t think so. I could go on at length about the erosion of resilience in modern society, how young men and women no longer know how to organise themselves to do simple physical tasks such as stacking boxes or loading a delivery van, and how we’re properly stuffed should there ever be a need to pick up arms and actually fight for freedom. But we’ll save that for another Sunday.
What we urgently need to do is refocus all that energy devoted to content warnings and apply them to the places that are dangerous for our mental and physical wellbeing. Yes, I’m talking about those convulsions that overcome us when we walk into a cherished restaurant, hotel, shop or villa and find that someone with too much authority and funding has commissioned someone else, evidently in way over their head, to conduct a “sympathetic and thoughtful renovation” of a space that didn’t need much more than a fresh lick of paint and maybe a new ventilation system.
I have many “safe spaces” in the cities I frequent or call home (Shiseido Parlour and Tas Yard in Tokyo, the Captain’s Bar at the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong and Kronenhalle in Zürich). But in general all those cosy, well-worn dens and dining rooms are under threat because management feels pressure from their offspring to make these places seem more open and inclusive. This is actually shorthand for turning up the lights, offering a menu for a minority that’s engineered around countering all possible dietary dislikes (rather than what the majority might heartily enjoy) and ensuring that everyone is in an environment that is aesthetically dull and unchallenging – the polar opposite of my version of safe.
Off the back of my recent world tour, I was keen to see the much-anticipated renovation of the Globus Bellevue food hall in Zürich. The Globus Delicatessa is a culinary safe space for picking up whiskeys and wine, boxes of yuzu flown in from Japan, surprises for the dinner table and cakes for dessert. Its new Thai owner, Central Group, is famous for knowing how to run a grocery store or two; what could possibly go wrong?
With my basket at the ready to find all the ingredients for a welcome-home dinner, I ventured into the new space all set to snap pics and feel proud of this perked-up emporium throwing open its doors again. The people pouring in and out gave it a certain buzz but it only took a glance at the plastic plants hanging from the ceiling of the Italian dining outlet, the ugly metalwork to the left and the even uglier signage above the food stations to know that this wasn’t going to be a long visit. Escalators down to the actual grocery part of Globus had been moved from the back and placed at the centre of the store (an obsession among the management, it seems). But rather than making the shopping experience open and airy, the renovations have created a cramped atmosphere of jostling and traffic jams around the check-out. What was once a warmly lit and chic place to shop is now a bright racetrack with little in the way of charm and no design language to speak of. Rather, it felt like the basement had been shrunk. The wine shop that was once a woody cave is now out in the open and uninspiring, and there’s not one counter with prepared items to take home. Why? The Swiss disease of renovating for the fun of it rather than restoring or leaving well enough alone has struck again.
It took a visit to Paris earlier in the week to restore my spirits. But then, on my return to Zürich, I noticed the venerable Confiserie Sprügli on Paradeplatz has also had a debilitating facelift. These are the once safe spaces that need warnings before entering. “Dear customer, we hope you like our new appearance but there’s a good chance that you might be offended. Sorry to see you go.”
House news / Christmas Markets
The holiday season is almost upon us and Monocle’s teams across the globe are getting ready to celebrate. Join us next week in Tokyo, Toronto or Zürich and later this month in London for our annual Christmas Markets. There will be handsome products from some of our favourite brands, hearty winter fare and a warming cup of Glühwein, as well as live music and a Monocle tombola. Our team is looking forward to welcoming you in:
Tokyo, 1 Chome-19-2 Tomigaya, 7 December
Toronto, 776 College Street, 7 and 8 December
Zürich, Dufourstrasse 90, 7 and 8 December
London, Midori House, 1 Dorset Street, 14 and 15 December
New opening / Luna d’Oro, Berlin
Berlin’s historic Clärchens Ballhaus, which has survived two world wars and is owned by entrepreneur Yoram Roth, has been given a fresh culinary addition (writes Ilona Marx). The lower hall of the two-storey building on Auguststrasse in the Mitte district is now home to the Luna D’Oro restaurant, which seats 146 guests on velvet-upholstered seats.
“The spirit of Clärchens Ballhaus wrote the menu for us,” says its head chef, Tobias Beck, who made a name for himself in the city with open-fire restaurant Ember. At Luna D’Oro, he presents his philosophy of straightforward German cuisine: minced meat, fried Spreewald cucumber, Königsberger Klopse (meatballs in a white sauce) and jelly with vanilla sauce. The house wine comes directly from the cask and is produced for Clärchens by Austrian winemaker Jörg Bretz. Dancing continues in the opulent mirrored ballroom on the upper floor, just as it has for more than a century.
claerchensball.haus
Sunday Roast / Klaus Alber
South Tyrolean hotelier Klaus Alber grew up watching his family run a pizzeria in the village of Laatsch, Bolzano. In 2012 he and his wife, Carmen, took the helm of the 44-key Miramonti Hotel – a Gasthaus above Merano with views of the valley and the surrounding mountains. Here, Alber tells us about his Alpine hiking trails, where to find the best Zelten (fruit bread) and his favourite Neapolitan pizza in Merano.
Where do we find you this weekend?
On a family hike with my wife and son to Leiten Alm, a lovely hut in a mountain area called Hirzergebiet. Afterwards we’ll grab a Neapolitan pizza at Vinothek Relax Pizzeria.
Your ideal way to begin a Sunday – a gentle start or a jolt?
Before my family wakes up, I’ll usually go on a 30-minute jog in the forest around Miramonti.
What’s for breakfast?
Homemade bircher muesli and fresh fruit. Then sourdough bread with butter and jam, and what I like to call the “Klaus egg” (a poached egg with herbs in a glass). Plus, some freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.
Which table are you booking this holiday season?
Gasthaus Rohrer, an Alpine farmhouse. Its strudel is legendary.
A Sunday soundtrack?
The Miramonti playlist with a mix of folk, pop, soul and jazz classics.
Your Sunday culture must?
The Christmas market in Glurns. It’s one of many lovely South Tyrolean markets.
News or not?
Digital news every day – and Monocle magazine, of course.
What’s on the menu?
Sauerkraut, venison, panettone from Andrea Tortora and Zelten (South Tyrolean fruit bread). The Bäckerei Schuster from my hometown of Laatsch does the best one.
Seasonal tipple of choice?
Hot apple gin, made using apples from Leitnerhof, mixed with our own Miramonti gin.
All I want for Christmas is…
Wine from the Manincor winery, just above Lake Caldaro.
Recipe / Ralph Schelling
This week, Swiss chef Ralph Schelling cooks up a seasonal poached-pear recipe. This spiced number is a perfect accompaniment to desserts and even meat dishes that could use a little extra sweetness. Thicken with some cornstarch to give it an appealing shine.
Ingredients
6 medium-sized pears
600ml water
300ml white wine
1 star anise
1 cinnamon stick
180g sugar
1 lemon, juice and peel
3 tbsps pear brandy
1 tsp cornstarch (optional)
Method
1
Peel the pears without cutting off the stalk and remove the core from the base with a melon baller.
2
In a large pot, bring the water, wine, anise, cinnamon, sugar, lemon juice and brandy to a boil. Add the pears, then cover and cook until just soft, preferably weighed down with a plate so that the pears are completely submerged.
3
Once the pears have softened, serve alongside dinner or dessert.
4
To preserve, use clean jars with lids and rubber rings. Place the pears in the jars, pour the boiling liquid over them up to just below the rim. Close the jars and turn them upside down.
Weekend plans? / Hotel Hirschen, Bregenzerwald
Hotel Hirschen in Schwarzenberg is run by siblings Peter and Pia Fetz, its 10th-generation family owners (writes Stella Roos). Seven years after taking over the business from their parents, the pair opened a new bathhouse and pool that complements the main building, a shingle-coated 18th-century inn. “I don’t need facilities with seven saunas and 12 pools but I want a bit of a spa,” says Peter, as he shows us around the three-level bathhouse, designed in white fir by Austrian firm Nona Architektinnen.
The companies of 37 regional craftsmen worked on the building, which was completed in eight months, exactly on schedule. This is the gentle but precise pace at which business often proceeds in Bregenzerwald, which lies a 30-minute drive from Lake Constance. The population of 32,000 has a mentality of “schaffe, schaffe, Häusle baue” (“Work, work, build a house”) – a mindset that supports a thriving construction industry. Little by little, Bregenzerwälders are developing a new crop of small but sturdy businesses that are improving the quality of life for residents and visitors alike.
After a morning massage and a swim at Hirschen, guests might head for lunch at VauLand in nearby Hittisau. There, they’ll be welcomed by Christian Vallaster, whose handmade ravioli with cheese and herbs is a testament to the impeccable quality of Alpine produce.
hotel-hirschen-bregenzerwald.at
For more Alpine addresses on our radar – and to find out why Austria means business – pick up a copy of‘Monocle: The Entrepreneurs’, available online and on newsstands now.
Cooking the Books / Cafe Cecilia
Since its launch in 2021, Cafe Cecilia in London’s Hackney has served up effortless takes on seasonal, homespun classics from chef Max Rocha’s native Ireland (writes Alex Milnes). Those who can’t get a table at the buzzing canal-side spot can now sample its cherished dishes at home. The Cafe Cecilia Cookbook, published by Phaidon, contains 100 signature recipes including the much adored onglet steak with peppercorn sauce and Guinness bread, as well as Rocha’s personal favourite: confit lamb, bitter leaves and anchovy salad.
Along with beautiful photography, readers are also treated to a heartwarming foreword by UK food writer Diana Henry. “I’d always wanted to write a book but never had the confidence,” says Rocha. Once Cafe Cecilia was well established, he decided that it was the right time. The recipes are a reminder that simple, honest dishes are often the best.
phaidon.com
Host with the Most / Esther Stam
Whether it’s creating a welcoming ambience through lighting or compiling a playlist that puts your guests at ease, there’s an art to hosting a seasonal gathering. This week, we’re guests of Esther Stam, the founder of Dutch design firm Studio Modijefsky, who has been behind some of Amsterdam’s best-loved hospitality projects.
Quirky cutlery or classic models?
Cutlery is the one thing on the table that doesn’t need to be quirky. I prefer classic designs that have proven their purpose.
Sharing plates or individual dishes?
As much as I appreciate a beautifully prepared dish, I love family-style dinners in which the food just keeps coming until the table is overflowing with plates, pans and bowls full of home-cooked recipes. The chaos and joie de vivre of a meal, and the happy mess left afterwards, are all part of the experience.
A minimalist table setting or all the frills?
All the frills. We love having little extras on the table, from flowers and candles to objets trouvés: small bronze sculptures made by Frederik Molenschot and treasures that we’ve picked up on our travels.
Good manners are…
Always showing appreciation for the cook and raising a toast whenever you’re drinking.
What rules do you stick to?
I mix my own drinks and keep a little bar stocked with everything needed for classic cocktails. Good music is essential too.
Where would you book if you could host anywhere?
Thalassaki on the Greek island of Tinos, Ponto Final in Lisbon or Oyster Bay in Inverness.
For more hosting tips, top tables and seasonal shopping guides, pick up a copy of Monocle’s bumperDecember/January issue, on newsstands now. Or better still,subscribeto always have your finger on the pulse. Have a super Sunday.
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