Issues

The Agenda: Ancient Greek

It is difficult to find a place to rent in Moda, Istanbul’s most fashionable neighbourhood. Yet right in the heart of the Asian-side district – where people are cool, bars are full and demand for flats is sky-high – stands a pair of abandoned historic houses: a totem of political tensions that have stalked Turkish-Greek relations for a century.

Several storeys tall, built of wood and sometimes masonry, these residences, like thousands of others scattered around the city, were home to members of Istanbul’s Greek community, which once numbered more than 200,000. Their inhabitants stayed in the country while Greeks elsewhere in Anatolia were deported following the collapse of the Ottoman empire but then fled amid pogroms in the 1950s and 1960s and the Cypriot war of 1974. Their houses were either sold at bargain-basement prices, seized or, like these two, left to crumble.

Political antagonism between Turkey and Greece continues. President Recep Tayyip Erdogan is threatening to seize part of the Aegean and the Greek islands in it; Athens is vowing to defend its sovereignty. Such rows flare cyclically, often when Erdogan needs to bolster his domestic support. In 2020 he infuriated Greece by converting Hagia Sophia, once the seat of Orthodox Christianity, into a mosque. But for the Turks who are saving the old houses and other Greek heritage buildings in Turkey, the spats matter little: friendships and co-operation endure.

“Whenever we have meetings in Europe, Greeks and Turks somehow gravitate to the same place,” says Banu Pekol, a Turkish architectural historian and co-founder of the Association for the Protection of Cultural Heritage. She worked with a Greek researcher to survey historic houses on islands in the Sea of Marmara and organised an exhibition on the Greek history of Istanbul’s Kurtulus neighbourhood, which also showed in Athens. “There was a lot of hugging and crying,” she says of the Istanbullus – Turks and Greeks – who came to see it.

Greeks who once fled Turkey are finding ways back. Nikolaos Uzunoglu, who was born in Moda, left Istanbul with his family after a nationalist mob attacked his home on the first night of the Cypriot war. He has lived in Athens since but reclaimed his citizenship of Turkey in 2019. Now he runs a cultural exchange project bringing young expatriated Greeks to Istanbul to learn about their heritage in the city. “The problem was never with ordinary Turkish people,” says Uzunoglu. “Many understood that what was happening was deeply unjust. Today relations between Greece and Turkey have no effect on what I do.”

The empty houses are such a part of Istanbul’s fabric that most locals hardly give them a thought. Pekol says that tour guides in Balat, the gritty neighbourhood around Orthodox cathedral the Patriarchate of Constantinople, often just say that they were built by Greeks, without expanding on what happened to that community. But a small number of Turks, including Pekol, are buying and restoring houses, preserving their original features and researching their histories.

“In the past 10 to 15 years many Greek buildings were bought and restored by people from big cities like Istanbul, Izmir and Ankara,” says Murat Demirli, a Turkish architect specialising in historic structures, who is part of a project training craftsmen in restoration techniques. “Old photos and plan drawings are important,” he says. “Sometimes even an interview with a previous resident helps in understanding the original story of a building.”

Virtuous cycle

Spirits are high when Monocle visits the newly completed Amsterdam headquarters of electric-bike manufacturer VanMoof on a Friday afternoon. Ice lollies are being tossed around, talk of weekend plans is flowing and, in a far-off corner of the room, a table football game kicks off. “It’s the best club in the city,” says Taco Carlier, the company’s co-founder and CEO, laughing.

Dutch firm VanMoof was founded in 2009 by Taco and his brother, Ties, who now runs the company’s Taipei r&d base operation. Its goal was to get more people out of their cars and onto bikes. “In Amsterdam about 50 per cent of all commutes are on bikes,” says Taco. “I’m convinced that in the next 10 to 20 years, we’ll see just as many cyclists on the streets of Paris, London, New York and San Francisco.”

The brothers have created what they believe is the ultimate city bike, with inbuilt wide-beam lights, keyless locking and anti-theft technology with gps tracking. VanMoof keeps everything in-house with its own 700-strong team of engineers, designers and “brand store staff”.

Teamwork and understanding are key, says Taco. “I want to create the perfect conditions for people to work together so they can get to the next level.” There are challenges, of course, in cultural differences and working across time zones; VanMoof has shops in more than 50 cities throughout Europe, the US and Japan. “If you overcome those, you can create beautiful products and change the world a bit,” he says. “That’s what we’re trying to do.”

The Cabinet
(From left to right)

Nenah Bonarius, Brand store manager, Amsterdam, “Runs the Amsterdam shop.”

Wren White, Head of operations, “Keeps everything functioning in an efficient manner.”

Job Stehmann, Chief product design and technology, “Unlocks VanMoof’s designers’ and engineers’ ideas.”

Marjolein Deun, Industrial design lead, “Designs and develops everything you can see and touch.”

Anissa Jaffery, Global vip and brand partnerships manager, “Manages the ambassador programme and oversees all brand partnerships.”

Jonathan Hum, Chief marketing officer, “Grows the brand and grows the business.”

Jean-Paul Niellissen, Lead innovation manager, “Links separate interdisciplinary teams to develop the bike as a whole.”

Heidi Powell-Biney, Retail marketing specialist, “Conceptualises the in-store experience across the globe.”

Shannon E Thomas, Head of experience design, “Ensures a practical and fun experience for VanMoof’s riders.”

Sarah Florander, Social media and content manager, “Is in the middle of everything, whether that’s writing a creative brief or getting VanMoof’s next global ambassador on a bike.”

Aurelia Grajdieru, Media lead, “Helps to put the brand in front of millions of people every day.”

Nino Loupatty, Scrum master, “Helps teams to work together better.”

Holly Minnes, Senior bike doctor, “Builds the customers’ bikes, fits accessories and fixes any problems.”

Florian Minco, Team lead, technical support, “Ensures that his team knows pretty much everything there is to know about every bike.”

Mila de Randamie, PR manager, Benelux, “Ensures that VanMoof is seen in a good way.”

Setting the tempo

Angélique Kidjo has won more awards than any other African musician. With 16 studio albums to her name, the singer is known for fusing musical traditions and enjoys a global reach unparalleled on the continent. Born in Benin in west Africa during French colonial rule, her childhood was spent absorbing music from her home country and beyond.

“I grew up in a family of 10 kids and I was number seven,” Kidjo tells Monocle from the Grieghallen concert hall in Bergen, Norway, where she’s performing as part of a European tour. “Music was always the centre of everything. Even now it can be played somewhere far from my house but as soon as I hear drums, I’m out.”

Her household fostered Kidjo’s creativity, with a musician father, a choreographer and theatre director mother, and siblings with whom she would perform in a rock, rhythm and blues band. From a young age, she demonstrated a talent for picking up languages such as Fon, Yoruba, French, Gen, English and Mina just by listening to music. “It’s funny, whenever I come to the Western world, they ask me which language I dream in and which language I write in,” says Kidjo. “But I don’t know; whatever comes is what you’re getting.”

At 23, Kidjo left Benin for Paris and, after flirting with the idea of being a human-rights lawyer, enrolled at prestigious Parisian jazz school cim to study singing. “I wanted to set the bar and jazz felt closer to the music I’d grown up with in Benin,” she says. “It’s familiar because it’s improvisation: everyone is invited to grab something and show off their skills. It’s conversational.”

In 1981, she released her first album, Pretty, in collaboration with Cameroonian producer Ekambi Brillant. But it was her 1989 follow-up Parakou, recorded after graduating with the help of her now-husband, Jean Hébrail, that launched Kidjo into the mainstream. Countless awards have followed: her 2021 record Mother Nature earnt Kidjo a fifth Grammy for best global music album. But when asked about the significance of this recognition, Kidjo remains unfazed.

“It means your work is acknowledged,” she says, although she admits that it makes her happy to know her music has appeal. “For me, winning awards is a responsibility. It puts pressure on me to continue trying my best.”

For Kidjo, trying her best means using her position as the doyenne of African music to rally people behind the causes of climate change and racial equality. Mother Nature features a wealth of young west African musicians, including Earthgang, Burna Boy and Sampa the Great. It was recorded during a period of police brutality in Nigeria and features Afro-house influences. Ultimately, Mother Nature demands respect and speaks of betterment and dignity.

“I want to give a platform to the youth of Africa to voice their concerns,” says Kidjo, explaining that spotlighting the next generation of musicians is something that comes naturally. “I come from a tradition of transmission. My elders told me the story of my ancestors, and of my identity and my culture. That’s my legacy.”

So sharing the stage with Kidjo on her current tour are Yemi Alade and Blue Lab Beats. She expects to continue this trend – of touring and collaborating with emerging artists – to create African music with a global reach. “It’s inevitable that it goes everywhere because it already is everywhere; Africanity is in everyone’s dna,” she says. “Its spread is not up to me, though. I just want to be authentic and happy.”

Push the envelope

“Welcome aboard,” says captain Ray Ames over the Tannoy of the US Mailboat Walworth, as the final passengers board his vessel. The horn atop the boat blasts through the hot morning air as we edge away from the dock on Wisconsin’s Lake Geneva, engines whirring and propellers churning the clear water. For some of us on board, the nerves begin to churn too: I, along with a handful of teenagers from the surrounding area, have joined this voyage for the annual try-outs for one of the least conventional but most athletic jobs the US Postal Service (USPS) has to offer – that of the mailboat-jumper.

Since 1916, postal workers on board the Walworth have delivered mail to the dozens of houses nestled along the rim of the lake, whose mailboxes are stationed at the end of piers jutting into the water. The task is deceptively simple: take a recipient’s letters, packages or newspapers in hand, leap from the moving mailboat onto the pier, deliver the mail and then jump back onto the still-moving boat as it forges forward to the next pier and mailbox. Ellen Burling has been involved in running the mail-jump for 40 years and is in charge of today’s try-outs. “Remember,” she says, running through tips for a successful delivery. “In the battle between you and this big boat, you’re gonna lose.”

I turn pale. “Try not to fall in the water,” says Sid Pearl, sitting next to me. He is 18 years old and has worked on the mailboat for five years and, as a mail-jump veteran, is here to advise those taking the trial. “Sometimes it happens but it’s all fun and games,” he adds, cheerfully. None of the piers are the same, Sid adds. Some are long, some are short, some are built lengthways into the water parallel to the boat’s path, others are perpendicular to it. And, of course, there are the elements to contend with – icy piers, rain-soaked wood, windy days and choppy waters. That all means that every jump is close to unique. “On the shorter piers, you should shuffle your feet,” says Sid, “On the longer ones, make sure you’re running down the pier pretty quickly – because you definitely want to make sure that you make it back onto the boat in time.”

We make our approach to the first pier on our route. It is famous among the mail-jumpers because its carved, wooden mailbox is shaped like a goose. “It’s a tradition for the jumpers to kiss the goose after they make the delivery and before they jump back onto the boat,” Captain Ames announces over the sound of the water. Freshly armed with that important information, I clamber out of the window next to the captain, sit on the ledge and await my impending leap of faith.

The moment comes. I jump from the moving vessel – but overshoot. I stumble briefly and realise how close I am to the edge of the pier as the rippling lake water soars up towards me. I regain my balance, dash towards the wooden goose, plant a smacker on its beak and whirl around to see the Walworth sailing on. I have, in every sense, missed the boat.

“Jumping off, you were very hesitant,” says Angie Johns, one of the judges of today’s mail-jumping try-out, evaluating my attempt once the Walworth has returned to collect me. “You went way past the goose and then it was like you saw the boat whizzing past and thought: ‘I just can’t do it’. There’s room for improvement.” Then she adds, laughing. “And there’s always next year.”

The Opener

How to live: the way forward
The Opener
The list

Tyler Brûlé shares some wisdom for those seeking opportunities after a sunny summer break.

There’s a reasonable chance that you’re reading this issue as you’re finding some definition in your tanline and you’ve managed to leave your phone in the villa for an afternoon. If so, bravo! There’s also a chance that you’re excited about getting back to the office and seeing what opportunities emerge as your plot your way into 2023. At a recent breakfast in Munich, a leader from a large German firm warned of pitfalls ahead but also hinted at fresh frontiers. Here’s my take.

1.
Get out in the world, on your own terms

If people suggest that you might be travelling too much or doing it in the wrong fashion, ignore them. Chances are that you’re running your own show and know what’s best for your company.

2.
ESG has often become lazy shorthand

esg has often become lazy shorthand not to do things or, often, do the wrong things. The intentions might be correct but it can’t be the only guiding force.

3.
Are you asking the difficult questions?

And often enough? There are some big, glaring questions facing all of us – and they need confronting.

4.
Argentina, a leader at the start of the 20th century

Argentina, a leader at the start of the 20th century, is no longer a player. Why? There’s some summer reading for you.

5.
Social capital is underrated

Social capital is underrated and people need to move in the right direction, at speed. States within states should not be considered an appropriate direction.

Clean living

If cleanliness is next to godliness, Zürich could be considered a deity. The Swiss city has long held a reputation for immaculately kept parks and clean waterways. To understand how these high standards are maintained, one has to get up at 06.30 and join the likes of Samir Asadullaev on an inspection of the city’s public spaces.

Asadullaev is part of a team of independent waste auditors employed by Zürich’s recycling department, touring the city daily from April to October to check the cleanliness of 320 public spaces. They look for the likes of overfilled bins, shards of glass or cigarette butt build-ups and grade the space on a scale of zero to three (the higher the number, the dirtier the location). Scores are then sent to the city and used to prioritise cleaning.When Monocle joins the rounds, we meet Asadullaev on his bike at Kasernenareal, a public garden in a former army barracks. Cycling around the site he notices a few beer bottles discreetly dumped next to a building. “That will be a one,” he says, entering the score in the reporting system on his phone. “A bit harsh but it has to be noted.” It’s an outlook that ensures Zürich is able to maintain its godlike status – other cities looking for a similar spot in the heavens would be wise to follow Zürich’s lead.

Reporting from…

Monocle’s global team of writers round-up news of South Korean cultural influence in Hong Kong, a neighbourhood revival in Los Angeles and Zürich’s solution to those pesky electronic scooters.

Hong Kong
K-drama school

Korean will be introduced as an elective subject in Hong Kong’s public schools, reflecting a growing interest in Hallyu media. And, given that watching foreign-language TV is a great way to learn languages, expect K-drama viewing to be on the curriculum.

Los Angeles
Near and deer

The MacArthur Park neighbourhood is crying out for investment. Enter art patron Nicolas Berggruen, who has restored a dilapidated 1920s building, creating space for retail and offices, and is sprucing up an old Elks Lodge (a social club) making space for studios.

Zurich
Smart scootering

In a bid to curb inconsiderate e-scooter use, Zürich is now offering financial credit to riders when the two-wheelers are parked in designated areas. Short of banning e-scooters outright, it’s a smart way to ensure the city’s streets work well for everyone.

Correspondent’s view: Vienna
Reining it in

When I first moved to Vienna, the idea of taking a ride on one of its famous Fiaker horse-drawn carriages seemed strange and unwarranted, like eating schnitzel with my feet. Above all, it seemed too touristy. “I’m not a tourist here,” I would tell myself. “I don’t need this.” But when, this summer, Austria’s health minister raised the question of whether the Fiaker were in step with the times, I felt obliged to rein back my snobbishness. As a special privilege, I was allowed to sit in the front with the coachman. All the children waved.

Anti-Fiaker arguments usually centre around issues of animal welfare. The minister, Johannes Rauch, also invoked technology: in this day and age, wouldn’t it make more sense to replace the horses with some kind of electric engine? For the tourists, nothing would change but the horses wouldn’t have to endure, pollute and congest our streets. Naturally, Vienna’s 21 Fiaker companies didn’t like the sound of that. Quite apart from their cultural significance, one of them explained to me, the horses are cared for to the highest standards. But then again, they would say that, wouldn’t they? The debate came to nothing in the end but this was an extremely close shave.

Another icon of Vienna’s transport wasn’t so lucky. The E1, the city’s oldest tram, has been retired after more than 50 years in operation. As an acknowledgement of what they meant to the city, Vienna’s transit authority Wiener Linien has put some of the remaining seven cars up for sale. Transportation is not included, however, and should be arranged privately. I wonder if you could use the horses for that.

Fishy business

Last year a Taiwanese sushi chain promised a free all-you-can-eat feast to anyone who legally changed their name to include the Chinese characters for salmon. At least 331 hungry and/or tight-fisted Taiwanese took up Sashiro’s offer but neglected to think matters all the way through. Under Taiwanese law, you may change your name three times but then you’re stuck with it. Some participants in Sushiro’s promotion had already reached that limit and are now theoretically doomed to a lifetime of being called such things as Dancing Salmon and Salmon Dream (sadly, nobody seems to have gone full Salmon-chanted-evening).

Taiwan’s lawmakers are currently debating tweaking the rules to free the newly-anointed salmons from this net. They could perhaps learn a lesson from Australian Rules football. In 1999, Geelong Football Club player Garry Hocking agreed to change his name to Whiskas, as part of a sponsorship tie-in with the cat food of the same name (Geelong are known as “the Cats”). However, it was for one game only – and Hocking had checked he could change it back afterwards.

Not-so-dedicated followers of fashion

When reporting at the summer fashion weeks, Monocle noticed plenty of action off the runway. On a train to the Kenzo show in Paris, a group of stylists recalled their scooter accident earlier in the week: near the Louvre a car had knocked them off the road, causing them to spend the night in hospital. “But did you make sure to email Givenchy and explain why the review was late?” asked their stressed editor sitting nearby. Meanwhile, when K-Pop star Lalisa Manobal arrived at a show, it wasn’t just teenage fans who raced to see her but senior fashion professionals too. “I thought we were here for the clothes,” quipped the only guest who stayed put at her seat.

Lost in translation

Ryanair introduced a compulsory pre-flight quiz this summer to help identify people using forged South African passports. Written in Afrikaans, the quiz asked simple questions about the country’s capital city and dialling code. However, given that only 13 per cent of South Africans speak Afrikaans, there was instant backlash and the quiz was removed. Rightfully so: knowing how to dial internationally isn’t a marker of citizenship. Might we suggest leaving it to border control in future?

Is that a fact?

Some fast facts picked up by our editors and correspondents while reporting stories for this issue.

1.
Wine
Ukrainian wine importer Sabotage has partnered with vintners from around the world to create special-edition labels, with proceeds going towards Ukraine’s armed forces. Our team was happy to spot La Bandita, by Italy’s Barbera d’Asti, on shelves in Kyiv.
See here

2.
Media
Staff numbers at some media firms have grown with coverage of the pandemic. So Jyllands-Posten isn’t alone when it comes to setting up a new HQ, with the likes of Bauer Media and Industry Dive also on the move.
See here

3.
Investments
Over the past decade, fashion holding groups have rushed to buy independent fashion labels. Spain’s Puig purchased Dries Van Noten’s namesake brand in 2018 to expand its €1.94bn portfolio beyond fragrance and cosmetics.
See here

Changing seasons

In the northern hemisphere, September is a month for getting back to work, putting into action at least some of the better ideas cooked up while lazing in the sun. (After carefully checking with yourself, of course, that it wasn’t the rosé making a change in direction seem like a good idea.)

It’s a mindset that kicks in not just at an individual level – companies, media players, cities and nations all like to reveal their latest ambitions and plans as a fresh season hits. This appetite for new directions is also the thread running through this issue of Monocle. Strangely, one of the places where we discovered this future-focused ambition in spades was during a recent reporting trip to Ukraine.

In the run-up to the war, and in the months that have painfully followed, we have sent our own staff to Ukraine and built up a network of Ukrainian correspondents and writers on the ground, including Olga Tokariuk and Artem Chekh. For this issue, however, we dispatched two of the team from Midori House, Carlota Rebelo and Christopher Cermak. Over 10 days they travelled from the Polish border to Lviv, Kyiv, Chernihiv and Chernivtsi to look at how civil society has dug in for the long haul and to get a sense of what people thought could happen next.

While Chris and Carlota saw the devastating effect of the Russian bombardments and visited the sites of massacres, what hits you is how people are full of ambition and, in between the air-raid sirens, lead oddly normal lives. Sunny Sunday? Well, then the joggers will be out, the parks packed. Their report shows the extraordinary strength of Ukraine and its leaders, who are still planning for, and dreaming about, the renaissance of their battered cities. Indeed, many have already rolled up their sleeves and started getting on with the job. It’s not to deny the enduring hardships or numbing exhaustion but instead to say that life endures and pushes onwards, even now.

In our business pages, we look at how the various scattered elements of the health and wellness industry are also getting back to work. Our Europe editor at large, Ed Stocker, travelled to Lille to meet some of the health start-ups trying to make France a leader in medical innovation. It’s a push that has Emmanuel Macron’s backing – when coronavirus hit and no French company could speedily create a new vaccine, the country realised that it was lagging behind some of its European neighbours. Not a place the president likes to be in.

Our US editor, Christopher Lord, unpacks a very different notion of wellness and getting back to work in his dispatch from Baja, Mexico. Chris went to stay at the Modern Elder Academy, which runs courses for senior executives and older serial entrepreneurs who have a new idea that they want to get off the ground. While the courses may sound a little too hip for some, they help people overcome the idea that age is a barrier to starting over. Yes, the participants have a habit of calling each other “compadre” but if it works, who’s judging.

You should also have a look at our story on the expansion of Stockholm’s Ett Hem hotel by designer Ilse Crawford and the property’s owner, Jeanette Mix. We have covered the story of this hotel before but keep coming back to it because it’s such a well done, against-the-grain, outpost of hospitality. A place that shows how design can transform the way you feel. It’s the sort of establishment we would like to see more of on the horizon.

There’s also plenty happening beyond the pages of the magazine for Monocle. Our paperback, The Monocle Companion: Fifty Ideas to Improve Your Life is out now (you can order one online at Monocle.com/shop) and we have events coming up in the US and Spain (keep up to date by subscribing to our free newsletters at Monocle.com/minute). We also have a pop-up shop at Zürich Airport, so if you’re there and in need of supplies or good gifts, come and say hello to the team.

In the meantime, we hope your September turns out to be a moment when plans play out to perfection. If you have stories to share or need any information about Monocle’s late-summer plans, feel free to drop me an email at at@Monocle.com.

Monocle’s Quality of Life Survey 2022

As Monocle’s editors met to pore over the research that underpins our annual ranking of the world’s most liveable cities the mood was rosier than it had been for a while. Let’s be clear: all of that guff about the death of cities was wildly overstated. The more we read, the more we were cheered by our correspondents’ reports on the optimistic turns that their cities had taken: Zürich is extending opening hours and street-side dining, and Stockholm is putting the brakes on its scooter problem, while most places fessed up to the need to recycle more, add bike lanes and prioritise pedestrians. Kyoto and Barcelona have had time to reflect on how to balance the interests of tourists and local residents, while Vancouver and Vienna were reconnecting with their leafy fringes. Lisbon’s plan to put 48,000 empty city homes to better use was a good example of a fix that should give other cities pause for thought.

Cities are here to stay. They drive the national economy even in countries whose leaders appear to be asleep at the wheel. What’s more, they remain exciting places where people rub shoulders, shop, eat, live and seek out surprises. The Bored souls who moved out to the sticks and work from home might disapprove but that won’t stop cities housing two-thirds of the world’s population by 2050.

Some of the challenges facing cities today have been around for decades: crime, transport, housing, ambulance response times. We faithfully factor these into our metrics, as we have done since our first annual survey in 2007. We have also added newer nudges, criteria and considerations. How suitable is your city to the newer rhythms of work? Can you take a lunchtime dip, travel abroad easily or saunter down a high street filled with independent businesses, rather than “to let” signs? Is your city working to make cycling and walking more pleasurable? Is it creating public spaces to mingle? Is your mayor seeking carbon neutrality or giving gas guzzlers the right of way? It all matters more than ever. Finally, did your city trust you when the pandemic hit or overly threaten you if you broke the rules?

This year’s shakedown takes into account retail and hospitality, access to green spaces and fresh air. We have added weight to better weather, a city’s cultural clout, the cost of living and access to affordable housing. Cities should be for everyone after all.

This year’s survey is the most qualitatively informed rundown that we have ever published. We scrutinised employment figures, population numbers and Gini coefficients but found ourselves needing to rely more heavily than ever on feedback from our correspondents on the ground. Living in cities is an experience, not a series of graphs to decode.

As such, Lisbon shoots up our ranking just as some long-closed-off Asian and Australian cities needed to be adjusted down. The Nordics have got the mix right and there are reasons to be hopeful about Tokyo’s reopening, Seoul’s urban investments and Milan’s mammoth ambitions. We have also included ideas from Dakar, Buenos Aires, Istanbul and other cities.

What follows here is the product of months of data-gathering, long discussions and the sincerely held belief that understanding cities is crucial to how we live and build a better future. Whichever way the political, cultural or economic winds are blowing, we have sought out reasons to be optimistic about how they’re run and where they’re heading. Read on for our 2022 ranking.

1.
Copenhagen
The best – and getting better.

Copenhagen’s decision to gear its city planning towards cyclists and pedestrians has resulted in cleaner air and reduced congestion, and has helped to improve the health and wellbeing of its residents. But there’s always more ground to cover: Nordic weather also demands a public transport system for days when the sleet feels like needles. So the Copenhagen Metro is still expanding, connecting previously distant neighbourhoods.

And the C-word? It’s as if the dreaded virus never happened. The Danish capital’s residents reverted to normality without a fuss, which reflects the sense of collective responsibility and togetherness that the city has fostered. Great new restaurants are opening almost every week (most have moved beyond the New Nordic dogma), culture has never been more vibrant and the economy is booming.

The city also scores well on safety, runs smoothly and has a generous welfare system and support for new parents (though inequality is nudging up). The whole country is under­taking the move towards carbon neutrality by 2050 but there are shorter-term advantages to living here – the proximity of the harbour for a lunchtime swim, for one.

A significant challenge for the city is finding space for all those who want to move here. The current solution – the artificial island of Lynetteholm at the southeastern harbour entrance, planned to house 35,000 people – is not without its critics.

2.
Zürich
The convivial all-rounder.

The cafés are full and if the lack of space for towels at the Letten lido is anything to go by, the city is bustling and ready to enjoy the summer sun. Zürich is back in full swing and the population is ticking up. The city’s pull is also evident in the packed pavement cafés, the competition for apartments and the low unemployment rate (2 per cent).

It is also doing its best to tempt people to linger. Parliament recently decided to allow restaurants and bars to permanently occupy the public spaces that they temporarily took over during the pandemic. Bravo. Along with plans to make 30km/h the maximum speed and add more bike lanes, Zürich is moving ahead in cutting emissions and making the city a more pleasant place to be (though in true Swiss fashion, these things will take time).

With the return of events such as Street Parade and the Sechseläuten festival – in which a snowman-like figure is filled with explosives and burned – and restrictions shelved, hoteliers are seeing a bump in guests. Overnight stays are rebounding, rising by more than 200 per cent from January to March 2022 compared to the same period last year.

Overall, Zürich continues to offer great food, drink, culture and retail. To make sure that it stays on top, it might have to reckon with the cost of living, which remains resolutely high, and graffiti is a problem that needs to be scrubbed out fast.

3.
Lisbon
The taste of life’s sunny side.

The Portuguese capital knows how to welcome newcomers: there’s nice weather, the airport serves an ever-increasing number of international destinations and there’s a sense of community that’s attracting people, businesses and opportunities.

Couple that with comparatively low levels of pollution, as well as mayor Carlos Moedas’s efforts to re-green the city, and its growth is beginning to look rather sustainable too. The city plans to slash its carbon emissions by 60 per cent by 2030 and a third of the mayoral budget has been dedicated to making this lofty rhetoric a reality.

It has been a good year for businesses. As tourism numbers creep back up towards pre-pandemic levels, spending has increased and helped the city’s many independent shops and restaurants. There has also been a boom in entrepreneurship. There was a 39 per cent increase in new businesses in the year to April 2022.

Despite Lisbon’s good looks, lustre and charm, there are challenges and housing is the most pressing. A new law limiting what types of building can be rented as short-term lets will help residents, while there’s also a programme to make use of the estimated 48,000 homes that are now empty.

Talent continues to be tempted by being able to go from desk to beach in less than 30 minutes. The city’s rise has been impressive, especially after the recent financial crisis. The next challenge? Making sure that the rising tide raises all boats.

4.
Helsinki
The flourishing outdoor city.

Helsinki is a city that somehow balances functionality and fun – two words that almost never belong in the same sentence. It’s among the safest capitals in the world, where the city’s proactive public-housing policy has managed to avoid the segregation that troubles its Nordic neighbours. As well as free healthcare and education to university level, there’s a vibrant start-up scene, thanks to a city hall that helps with office space and advice on financing. This generates an equality of opportunity that pushes many people to try something new, though more could be done to help high-street and home-grown businesses.

Surrounded by the sea and hundreds of islands, and criss-crossed with verdant parks and forests, Helsinki is an outdoor city where nature and fresh air are never far away. In the summer months, its residents flock to the outdoor pools, seaside saunas and squares filled with restaurants to frolic in the sun. In the winter months, you can ski in the city itself and you’ll find children building snowmen and riding sledges in parks. Music festivals such as Flow and art museums, including Amos Rex, attract visitors from around the world and the plans for a new architecture museum are promising.

The city administration is transparent and approachable and allocates almost €10m a year to citizen-led initiatives, from a simple bench to new parks and swimming jetties. Come to see the success for yourself.

5.
Stockholm
The Swedish sweet spot.

Stockholm has struggled with integration outside its pretty and polished city centre but over the past decade its outlook has become much more international. There’s more to do but you can feel that the city is alive and thriving, from café terraces to museums and the leafy Djurgården. There have been plenty of openings, thanks to the city’s lenient take on lockdowns.

Fortunately, measures have been taken to cut the number of pesky electric scooters and longer-term infrastructure upgrades in areas such as Slussen in Södermalm are continuing. There is also great public healthcare and a top-notch free education system, alongside enlightened policies regarding time off when it comes to having (then raising) children.

The population is ticking up and city authorities are doing their best to keep up the supply of housing stock to meet demand, even if it seems as though those apartments can’t be built fast enough. So what’s the draw for newcomers? First, there’s Stockholm’s natural beauty: picture thousands of sailboats headed from Lake Mälaren out to the Baltic Sea, the pristine islands that make up the archipelago surrounding Stockholm, the city’s beaches and forests both in the centre of town as well as its easily-reachable outskirts.

And then there are Stockholm’s progressive policies and a tradition of putting equality at the top of the agenda. That makes it a (nearly) perfect place to put down roots.

6.
Tokyo
The ever-surprising megacity.

The pandemic shifted the discussion around work-life balance here more significantly than years of legislation. Working from home wasn’t a serious proposition for many in Tokyo but the pausing of the commuter treadmill prompted a rethink of office life.

As a more relaxed Tokyo opens up to visitors and hits its stride again, good restaurants are as busy as ever and queues form for whatever brand that young shoppers deem worthy of their money. But the pandemic has altered the rhythm of the city in subtle ways. While retail is as immaculate as ever and Ginza cocktail bars just as precise, dinners now start and end earlier. Hospitality soldiered on in the absence of overseas tourists (and, for long stretches, domestic travel too). Some places didn’t make it, but other hotels opened and more are planned.

A city the scale of Tokyo has its own life with or without tourists and development is at its usual relentless pace. There is no lack of ambition: Tokyu Corporation’s complex reconfiguration of Shibuya continues, Mori Building is working on its giant Toranomon-Azabudai Project, opening next year, and Mitsubishi Jisho Sekkei is building the enormous Torch Tower near Tokyo Station. At 390 metres, the soaring skyscraper will be the tallest in Japan by 2027.

Meanwhile, dog walkers were cheered by the belated reopening of Yoyogi Park, which was closed for an extended period. Outdoor spaces have never been more cherished.

7.
Vienna
The well-connected capital.

Vienna had a rotten pandemic. It didn’t help itself with hair-trigger lockdowns that felt harsh and out of step with the rest of Europe. That said, Austria supported the health of its citizens and its businesses admirably. As such, most of its independent restaurants, shops and hotels survived to trade another day.

As the sun returns, there’s plenty to see and do from a world-leading line-up of 100 museums, places to swim, eat and drink – and some new overnighters too. Openings include Hotel Gilbert by Austrian architecture firm bwm, Hotel Motto (an offshoot of the restaurant of the same name) and a new Rosewood property.

About one in four houses is still owned by the municipality, making Vienna one of Europe’s biggest landlords and living here affordable. Costs are rising but from a low base.

The city has added to housing in the central 2nd district and created the new U5 subway line; plus, its cycling network of more than 1,650km is growing constantly. Vienna is an easy city to saunter around and between the U-Bahn and trams, the average length of a city commute is an enviable 26 minutes. Getting fresh air is easy too, with immaculate green spaces, such as the Volksgarten and Stadtpark, and the chance to splash out in the Alte Donau or take a short drive to the forested Wienerwald. Meanwhile öbb’s investment in overnight rail is quietly adding to the allure of this already well-connected city.

8.
Sydney
The Harbour City awaiting rebirth.

Lord mayor Clover Moore continues to reign over Sydney, which was closed for business for three and a half months in 2021 and has suffered a galling 160-plus days of rain so far this year, thanks to La Niña. That said, the year-round sun, energy and a thriving cultural scene still make the Harbour City an attractive place to live. But it’s not without its problems. Inadequate public transport to the suburbs has left residents reliant on cars, resulting in gridlock. Major road projects are under way, including a series of tunnels stretching 19km that will link the west and northwestern suburbs to the cbd; this is expected to reduce travel times by 40 minutes on major routes and help drivers avoid 52 sets of traffic lights.

Housing is an issue and many social housing complexes have been sold or repurposed. The brutalist Sirius Building and Victorian terraced housing by the Sydney Harbour Bridge have been flogged to developers or private buyers. Rents have rocketed and property values have shot up by more than 33 per cent in the past year. The average price of a three-bedroom house is au$1.6m (€1m) and the weekly rent for a one-bedroom flat in the cbd is in the region of au$2,500 (€1,666). Some 50,000 families are on the waiting list for social housing in New South Wales.

The retail landscape wasn’t helped by the 107-day citywide lockdown in mid-2021 and the high streets of many inner-city suburbs now have plenty of “For lease” signs. But could this be an opportunity?

9.
Vancouver
The west-coast wonder.

Most Canadian cities dragged their heels when it came to opening up but authorities in British Columbia were comparatively nimble. As a result, life in Vancouver resumed more swiftly than elsewhere. Pressures remain, particularly for more affordable housing. Residents also had an uncomfortable first-hand experience of the effects of climate change during last summer’s record-breaking heatwave. That said, there’s confidence in the city, whose population growth is among the fastest in the country.

The next few years promise plenty too. A landmark expansion of the Millennium Line underground railway, which will improve connections with some of Vancouver’s outer suburbs, is on schedule to be up and running by 2025. Meanwhile, consultations on an international high-speed Cascadia rail route between Vancouver, Seattle and Portland continue.

In culture, a major expansion of the Vancouver Art Gallery, designed by the Swiss firm Herzog & de Meuron, will break ground next year and open in 2028. The city is also expected to host matches in the forthcoming Fifa World Cup, staged jointly by the US, Canada and Mexico. Vancouver’s quality of life remains anchored in its proximity to nature, from the North Shore Mountains to the dramatic Pacific coastline. Recent efforts to make access to and between the city’s over 250 public parks and its vast cycling network better are a move in the right direction.

10.
Taipei
The hidden Asian gem.

Taipei is a subtropical oasis teeming with stunning hiking trails and walkable city streets. It is known for its tantalising food stalls that are open 24 hours a day, with vendors slinging out cheap bowls of rice and noodles for early commuters or night owls.

With a low crime rate and a world-class healthcare system, the city is also surprisingly affordable, given its perks. The average monthly cost of renting a one-bedroom flat is about €750 and most neighbourhoods have their own feel, charm and wet market.

Taipei’s public transport system is also an urban designer’s dream. There are more than 1,000 bike-share stations, which amount to about one station every 150 metres. Buses and trains are rarely late and the metro system continues to expand and grow, thanks to steady and far-sighted investment. Speaking of which, oma’s Taipei Performing Arts Center is finally opening too.

Nature nestles in rather nicely with the buildings. There are wild ferns hanging from the sides of many balconies and tens of thousands of trees in the city have QR codes attached, which passers-by can scan to look up their size and species. Just north of downtown Taipei is the lush Yangmingshan National Park, which is dotted with hot springs.

While borders are still closed, the government has announced its plan to slowly open up to visitors later this year. For now, residents are enjoying having the city to themselves.

11.
Munich
The dynamic alfresco city.

Munich has long enjoyed the idea of being “Italy’s northernmost city”. Its mix of sunshine, joviality and open-air attractions, ranging from beer gardens and Olympic sports grounds to a pristine Alpine river, all make for a well-run Bavarian version of la dolce vita.

The city’s love of alfresco life was boosted during the pandemic restrictions. Munich allowed bars and restaurants to temporarily set up tables on pavements and car parks – a popular development that has become a permanent feature. Today, hundreds of restaurants and cafés make use of extra seating outdoors.

Similarly flexible solutions were found for a decommissioned concrete factory and a public pool that require renovation and have temporarily been transformed into colourful locations for basketball and beach-volleyball tournaments, flea markets, concerts and merrymaking.

Munich even mustered a reply to Hamburg’s Elbphilharmonie. While that concert hall took more than 10 years and about €850m to build, Munich turned a former industrial site into a venue and cultural centre in 18 months, all for just €43m. Originally envisioned as a temporary replacement for Munich’s main classical music venue while it is under renovation, the Isarphilharmonie concert hall has been so enthusiastically embraced that it is expected to stick around. And it has given a welcome boost to discussions about future urban development. –– jsc

12.
Seoul
The resilient all-night capital.

After 566 days, Seoul lifted its outdoor mask mandate in May but many still don them. Though businesses are taking stock and tourism has yet to return, most restaurants, cafés and museums are bustling. Seoul is looking more like its old self. Curfews were eliminated in April, which means that clubs, bars and karaoke spots are fun once more. It’s easy to find 24/7 restaurants and shops; public transport is cheap and accessible; and taxis roam the streets all night.

It’s hard to say how the city will fare in the near future. Seoul has mostly kept infection numbers low since coronavirus emerged but the Omicron variant created a surge that has never felt fully under control.

Life in Seoul comes with long working hours, with people putting in 200 more hours a year on average than toilers elsewhere in the OECD. On weekends many flock to nearby mountains and streams, including the Cheonggyecheon restoration project, where fish swim in the shadow of skyscrapers. Seoul is adding more greenery: the newly renovated Gwanghwamun Square will soon reopen, while a former US military base will be transformed into a big park in the next few years.

President Yoon Suk-yeol has vowed to provide more assistance to citizens by easing finance rules and expanding housing projects to address the property crisis. Despite the hardships, the city has remained resilient, blooming this spring with verve and grit.

13.
Berlin
The reliably buzzing wonderland.

Franziska Giffey is not only Berlin’s first female mayor but also the first East German to hold the top municipality since the fall of the wall. Berliners are keen to see what she and her Green-Left coalition will do beyond guiding the city past the pandemic and the effects of the war in Ukraine. Berlin received as many as 10,000 refugees a day in the early weeks of the invasion. Despite the influx, things have gone more smoothly than past refugee crises.

Berlin is breathing easier: poring over coronavirus statistics feels passé when clubs are open, workplaces are buzzing and masks are mostly off (except on public transport). Tourists are back, arriving in Berlin’s new-ish Brandenburg airport and filling the hotels and restaurants that made it through the lean years. In the arts, two major museums (Haus der Kulturen der Welt and Gropius Bau) will have new directors starting next year. A new art museum by architects Herzog & de Meuron is under construction too.

Tesla has opened its Gigafactory near Berlin. The former site of Tegel airport is amid an ambitious revamp which will create 5,000 new homes, a university campus and space for 1,000 businesses, all aiming for net-zero energy use – sustainability is now one of the city’s top aims. Much is changing and one of Giffey’s challenges is to look after the city’s long-term interests. For now, Berliners are soaking up the sun.

14.
Amsterdam
The city of contradictions.

Amsterdam shouldn’t work as well as it does. Much of it is below sea level and its cycling success continues despite the combined dangers of loose cobbles, tram tracks and steep-sided canals – not to mention stoned tourists who don’t look where they’re going.

Thank heavens that Amsterdamers are an easy-going and circumspect crowd, eh? There’s a rejig of cycle lanes under way, as well as efforts to calm the traffic and some much-needed canal maintenance, but more affordable housing is needed. Attempts to improve connections with the Noord area, across the Ij river, would help by reducing the commute for many and provide space for the city to grow.

Amsterdam is also at last dealing with the seedy stag-dos that once blighted its streets. The plan is to confine its legal but licentious activities to select parts of the city centre. This and the pandemic-related hiatus on visitors have helped neighbourhood restaurants and shops to thrive.

In terms of business, Amsterdam is an attractive place. While a trickle of UK businesses moved here after Brexit, the city needs to do more to sell itself as a place of opportunity. You only need to wander around the 17th-century canals amid the wonky gabled houses and spot smiling neighbours clinking glasses on their stoop at 16.00 to know that you’re not in nose-to-the-grindstone London or Paris territory. The city also has a global gateway through Schiphol and swift rail links. Getting away for the weekend has never been easier.

15.
Madrid
The fearless high-flier.

Perhaps it’s all the sunshine – 2,691 hours a year, almost double that of London – but Madrid’s future is looking rather bright. Its touchy-feely side was shelved during the pandemic but kissing, hugging and hand-holding have slowly returned and helped the city become its welcoming self again.

The Spanish capital has been dubbed many things – cheerful, resilient, even raucous – but it has never felt this fearless. New openings are bolstering the confident mood, from opulent new hotels to department stores and theatres. Buoyed by some of Europe’s least restrictive lockdown measures, the restaurant sector got a head start on hospitality and groups headed by celebrated chefs have taken seats at the table.

Construction has also started on Europe’s biggest housing development to date, Madrid Nuevo Norte, set to provide more than 10,500 new homes (and much-needed social housing) in a district the size of 470 football pitches. The central area around Sol is finally getting a facelift, spurred by the Canalejas retail and hotel development. The Plaza de España took its time to open but the project is a game changer – and it will be even better once those weedy trees grow tall and links are forged to adjacent parks, plazas and the river. That said, the archaic small-business licensing regime is a barrier to entrepreneurs. For a city so bullish about the future, those with bold ideas shouldn’t be afraid to flap their wings.

16.
Auckland
The liberated metropolis.

New Zealand’s largest city has been in a deep freeze for two years of lockdowns and restrictions but it’s finally getting back to business. The borders are reopening, which is handy because tourism was the country’s biggest revenue generator before the pandemic. Many of Auckland’s retail and hospitality businesses have survived the thaw, helped by government grants, wage subsidies and targeted help. While agriculture and technology have been useful and haven’t suffered much from Auckland’s isolation, attracting people back for work and play needs to be the city’s top priority.

There’s more foot traffic in the Beaumont Quarter, with its alfresco restaurants and fun public spaces. By the harbour, the NZ$1bn (€610m) Commercial Bay redevelopment, which opened after the country’s first lockdown, is attracting crowds at last. With busy shopfronts and plenty of greenery, it reflects Auckland’s forward-thinking policy of combining businesses and public space.

House prices remain quite high but dropped to a median price of NZ$1,141,000 (€690,000) in April. Thousands of new builds are springing up on the city’s fringes, supported by road and infrastructure projects. To unclog motorways, it’s full steam ahead on the NZ$4.4bn (€2.6bn) underground City Rail Link.

Meanwhile, Auckland’s culture scene has re-emerged with plays, gigs, exhibitions and festivals. Visitors are very welcome, by the way.

Adopt: A congestion tax for drivers entering central Auckland at peak times.
Drop: Allowing cars into the cbd on and around Queen Street and instead create an appealing and useful pedestrianised area where people will enjoy spending time.
Population: 417,910 (city), 1,720,000 (metropolitan area).
Houses built in 2021: 20,500.
Trees in the city: 440,000.
Number of destinations served by Auckland airport: 57 in 21 countries.

17.
Paris
The global cultural centre.

Paris is back on form and the terraces, parks and banks of the Seine are buzzing with people – often reuniting over a bottle of wine. The French capital is still the place to be for culture, whether you’re interested in fashion, retail, craft, theatre, TV or exhibitions. An evening of world-class dance or a life-drawing class is only ever a Métro ride away, as are countless independent bookshops and more than 400 cinema screens. For those who prefer to drink and dine outside, there are thousands of terrasses at which to sit and watch the world go by. And when it comes to places to stay, new openings abound, from Cheval Blanc and Soho House to Château Voltaire and Hôtel Madame Rêve.

In addition to being fairly walkable, Paris has emerged from the pandemic as a more bike-friendly place. The authorities recently unveiled rather vaguely worded plans to make it “100 per cent cyclable”. In practical terms, that means adding a further 180km of bike lanes by 2026, bringing the total to about 1,200 km.

On the horizon are the 2024 Olympics, the biggest event ever organised in France. In addition to bringing in the world’s best athletes, the Games will leave a mark on the urban landscape, from an expansion of the Métro to a green facelift for the Champs-Élysées. Apartments in Paris are relatively small and expensive but with so much going on outside and the sun shining, many are more than happy to compromise.

Adopt: More green spaces. The Champs-Élysées is a good start but there are communities and areas that need it more.
Drop: Cars in the city centre.
Population: 2,161,000 (city), 11,142,000 (metropolitan area).
Commuters who cycle to work: 5 per cent.
Number of destinations that Charles de Gaulle airport serves: 272 in 113 countries.
Number of hospitals: 19, with a ratio of almost 400 physicians per 100,000 people.

18.
Barcelona
The coveted coastal paradise.

Barcelona arguably became too attractive to tourists, new businesses and blow-ins before the pandemic. Back then it was pulling in some 12 million visitors a year, which was overwhelming the population of about 1.6 million, creating transport snarl-ups and pricing long-term residents out of desirable neighbourhoods.

Getting back to normal is therefore bittersweet. The influx of cash is welcome but the silver lining of the past two years was that Barcelonans reclaimed their streets and liked it. All eyes are now on mayor Ada Colau to see if the activist-turned-politician can balance the city’s tourist pull with the pleasure of living in a calmer Catalan capital. She has already introduced some of the world’s tightest Airbnb restrictions and plans to invest €16m to buy empty commercial spaces and fill them with shops and businesses catering to residents.

Colau is also focusing on tactical urbanism, intended to yield practical ways of using public space and getting people around. The best example is her superille (superblock) initiative: restricting traffic and pedestrianising swaths of city streets and furnishing them with tables, chairs and playground equipment. While this looks good on paper, you’ll often hear Barcelonans complaining that it has concentrated traffic in different areas. So it’s lucky that Colau has doubled the city’s bike network during her time as mayor. It’s never been easier to pedal down to the beach for a sunset cervesa.

Adopt: A contactless payment system on public transport would convince more people to use it.
Drop: Spain’s autónomo (freelance) tax makes it difficult to be self-employed.
Population: 1,621,000 (city), 5,658,472 (metropolitan area).
Number of new restaurants opened in the past year: 104
Chain test: 18 branches of Starbucks.
Electric-car charging points: More than 500.
Beaches: 4.5km within the city.

19.
Melbourne
The growing hub of creativity.

No conversation about the Victorian capital can skirt the lockdowns that kept Melburnians isolated longer than any other city in the world. It also led to widespread business failures and to thousands leaving the city. But Melbourne is building back and its residents are looking to the attributes that made the city globally desirable before this dark chapter.

Melbourne remains progressive, artistic and cerebral; it values creativity and independence and is the place that took the fine coffee of its migrant Italian population and elevated it to an art form worthy of global export. There’s good reason why coffee chains never dominated here. The city also offers world-class culture, an exciting food scene, great architecture, sport and space to roam.

But the real indicators of its quality of life are in its communities and facilities. Here you’ll find that excellent parks, schools, hospitals and public transport make it a drawcard for migrants moving to Australia. But there’s the rub: Melbourne is now the country’s fastest-growing city and if the rate stays steady it will overtake Sydney’s population by 2030. As such people are increasingly being forced to live in the outer suburbs, which currently lack much of what draws people to live in Melbourne in the first place.

Without swift development, the city could suffer the same fate as other desirable cities worldwide: a population cleaved into haves and have-nots, divided by their postcode.

Adopt: An ambitious plan to connect the suburbs to the city centre and each other.
Drop: The obsession with construction in the central business district. Focusing beyond it will have long-term benefits.
Population: 169,860 (city), 5,096,300 (metropolitan area).
Number of cinemas: 60 (413 screens).
Amount invested in infrastructure in 2022: AU$3.5bn (€2.3bn).
Number of libraries: 53.
Average ambulance response time: About 12 minutes.

20.
Kyoto
The old city with a bright future.

In the past two years, Kyoto seems to have hurtled back decades – in an appealing way. Border closures have affected everyone in Japan but not all places felt the pinch equally. Tokyo, with a population nearly seven times that of the ancient capital, remained busy and economically self-sustaining, despite a lack of tourists. Kyoto felt abandoned at times. Before the pandemic tourism was growing at an extraordinary pace; the number of places to stay nearly quadrupled between 2014 and 2019 and hospitality businesses were geared up to welcome some 53 million domestic and foreign tourists a year before those numbers tumbled, thanks to lockdowns.

Tourism has long been crucial to the city but the heavy foot traffic was already proving unsustainable for residents’ quality of life. The battalions of taxis that once clogged traffic are gone for now and so too are the illegally parked bicycles and crowds that once beset this small city. Kyoto now has a chance to rethink its future. Its charm has always been its slower pace of life and connection to the Kamogawa river, a centre of civic and social life that many have rediscovered. The mountains in the distance offer a sense of the nature that can be enjoyed.

Meanwhile, cultural events such as the Kyotographie photography festival have reminded people that Kyoto is about more than old temples. The city should use this moment to find a healthier balance between economy and quality of life. –– jt

Adopt: A proactive way to keep people from leaving – the population is falling.
Drop: Total reliance on tourism. A rich cultural city needs more.
Population: 1,444,649 (city), 2,546,189 (metropolitan area).
Unemployment: 2.5 per cent (prefecture).
Number of museums: About 200.
Independent bookshops: About 130.
Chain test: 38 branches of Starbucks.
Average ambulance response time: Seven minutes and 18 seconds.

21.
Milan
The city on the cusp of greatness.

Milan yearns to be considered one of Europe’s great cities and it’s improving at a fast clip. A star turn in June’s flagship furniture fair bolstered the Lombard capital’s cosmopolitan credentials, while showing off its retail scene and places to eat and drink.

Beyond the fleeting annual fashion and design exhibits, there’s also a flurry of construction under way on municipal parks, as well as giant public-private initiatives ahead of the 2026 Winter Olympics. The metro is being extended and the new M4 line should ease connections to the already convenient Linate airport (the less said about the mega-hub of Malpensa, the better).

Mayor Beppe Sala was re-elected last year partly on a mandate to improve bike lanes and is looking at so-called “corridors”, with some separate from traffic. It’s a nice idea but cobbles, tram tracks and traffic can make cycling feel like an extreme sport here. Milanese are attached to their cars but new high-speed train stations and one of Europe’s largest limited-traffic zones (for which the final cameras were installed in April) might help. Air quality, among the worst in western Europe, will be much improved if the scheme is successful.

Getting around is improving but getting away is easy too. You’re never far from the Alps, lakes or seaside. Both international and provincial, Milan is thinking bigger than any other Italian city. It is on its way to greatness but it’s not quite there yet.

Adopt: More measures to address air pollution and calm traffic.
Drop: The outdoor smoking ban – or enforce it. The response is muddled.
Population: 1,386,285 (city), 3,241,813 (metropolitan area).
Average hours of work a week: 38.8.
National newspapers: 13.
Number of design schools: 15.
International destinations served by city airports: 161.
Bike lanes: 300km.

22.
Fukuoka
The balanced Japanese city.

Self-isolation has made Fukuoka’s charms shine more brightly. The city of over 1.6 million in southern Japan is a better place than most to seek an ideal mix of work and fun. Ohori Park is a draw for running or respite amid the trees, while for volleyball, stand-up paddle-boarding and windsurfing, there’s Momochi Beach, just 20 minutes by bike from the city centre.

The food scene is among the best in Japan and, in terms of shops, there are plenty of independent fashion boutiques, furniture stores, quirky little bookshops and more to balance the international names. Most have survived the pandemic in good health.

Hakata station, Fukuoka’s transport hub, connects the city with everywhere on and beyond Kyushu island, with a network of local lines and bullet trains. The international airport is five minutes away by metro from Hakata, which makes a business lunch in Tokyo (about two hours away by plane) a realistic option.

The cost of living is much lower than in the capital, which hasn’t gone unnoticed by graduates and blow-ins. Fukuoka has hosted more new businesses than any other Japanese city for the past three years. It’s also Japan’s fastest-growing city. What the numbers can’t fully explain is the sense of pride that comes from living here. Locals tend to be warm and friendly, community-minded and very open to newcomers – never a bad thing if you’re starting a business or putting down roots.

Adopt: More greenery. It has suffered as the city centre has expanded.
Drop: The ambition to compete with bigger cities. Fukuoka’s strength is that it’s not like them.
Population: 1,620,000.
Unemployment: 2.6 per cent (prefecture).
Bike-share scheme consists of: 2,600 bicycles used for an average of 320,000 monthly rides.
Hours of sunshine a year: 2,043.
Beaches: Nine in close proximity.

23.
Oslo
The compact green giant.

No Norwegian city had a longer lockdown than Oslo but it has made up for lost time. Some 70 new bars and restaurants have opened in the past 12 months and the city now has a growing street-food scene offering affordable, high-quality alternatives to the nice-but-expensive restaurants on offer.

Oslo remains one of Europe’s fastest-growing cities and now an ambitious regeneration project of abandoned industrial port areas is nearly complete after 20 years. The resulting “Fjord City”, a near-10km stretch of new urban spaces, has transformed the south-facing waterfront. Cultural giants including the Munch Museum and the new National Museum, the largest art exhibition space in the Nordics, are jostling for room among floating saunas, city beaches, about 9,000 new homes and 52 hectares of parks and urban spaces.

Next to the fjord, Oslo’s other main asset is the forest, which can be reached by underground train in 15 minutes. It offers thousands of kilometres of paths for trekking in summer and cross-country skiing in winter, as well as organised activities such as zip-lining, skiing and horse riding.

The city has never felt greener, with a near-total electrification of public transport, while six in 10 private cars are now electric. A new carbon capture and storage system is also being developed to make Oslo’s waste incinerator plant, which provides heating to a large portion of the city’s houses, almost carbon neutral.

Adopt: A system for tidying the thousands of rentable electric scooters often abandoned on pavements and in parks.
Drop: The number of cruise ships docking in front of Oslo’s Akershus Fortress. Cutting them would lop off 10 per cent of all harbour emissions too.
Population: 699,827 (city), 1,546,706 (metropolitan area).
Unemployment: 3.7 per cent.
Amount invested in public transport last year: €400m.
Newspapers: Eight (national), six (city).

24.
Singapore
The outward-looking city-state.

Singapore was at the forefront of Asia’s post-pandemic reopening. Today nightlife is back with unrestricted hours and people are thronging shopping centres, parks and riverside bars. Joo Chiat Road has blossomed into an independent retail and restaurant hub, flocked with natural wine bars, Japanese bakeries and fashion labels, signalling how government support has helped businesses to thrive. Food here remains affordable and top quality and the beaches, pools and sunshine are a draw, even if the advantages of the city’s connectivity are somewhat wasted while swaths of Asia remain closed to travel.

As part of the Singapore Green Plan 2030, which includes targets for electric vehicles and sustainable agriculture, the government has increased the city’s walking and bicycling network to 500km of paths, with a total of 1,300km expected by the end of the decade. The 24km Rail Corridor reopened last year and offers families and weekend walkers a nature trail that takes city slickers past restored bridges, forests and troupes of surprisingly placid macaques.

Singapore’s expat population shrank as lockdowns and visa uncertainties sent foreigners packing. Many have returned and new arrivals seem eager to take their place. Singapore should be a shoo-in to capitalise on Hong Kong’s talent exodus but stringent visa requirements are stopping the city-state from seizing the opportunity with both hands.

Adopt: A faster system for dealing with the arrival of eager future residents.
Drop: Capital punishment and the stone-age stance on sexuality. Both are at odds with the city-state’s otherwise fairly progressive inclinations.
Population: 5,685,800.
Proportion of nationals living in public housing: 80 per cent.
Homes built last year: 14,500.
Chain test: 130 branches of Starbucks.
Airport serves: 400 cities in more than 100 countries and territories.

25.
Brisbane
The quiet high-achiever.

Australia’s third city is subtropical Brisbane, a short flight north of Sydney in the state of Queensland. Brisbane is sunny with an ideal combination of easy-going Aussie lifestyle and plentiful job opportunities, industry and space, as well as relatively affordable housing compared to bigger cities – though more could be done in terms of social housing. Brisbane has few pressing problems but this year we found one: it is rather flood-prone. Earlier in 2022, large parts of the city suburbs were subject to torrential rain.

City authorities have swung into action, recognising the need for changes to planning laws and preventative measures to stop such crises from occuring in future. It’s a practical recognition that issues involving climate-related weather anomalies are only likely to get worse.

Sydney and Melbourne have long bickered about which is the better or more exciting city – but Brisbane is the quiet achiever of Australia’s eastern seaboard and scores high in our quality of life indicators. It’s safe, has good schools, hospitals and transport connections, as well as a growing arts and culture scene. It’s sunny for two thirds of the year and often above 20c even in winter. It has an enviable proximity to beaches and national parks, and has its own burgeoning restaurant and retail scene that has survived the pandemic largely intact. It would be splitting hairs to find elements of the city that don’t meet the needs of those in search of a better quality of life.

Adopt: A better and more tasteful approach to new buildings. Ugly towers abound.
Drop: The strictness of rules and fines. Let a little common sense prevail.
Population: 2,582,000 (metropolitan area).
Number of trees: 454,000 (across the city and suburbs).
Public tennis courts: 61.
Capacity of Brisbane Live Arena, an entertainment venue to be built by 2024: 17,000.

Local flavour

The Joule
Bank on it

The Joule hotel is credited with sparking a revival of downtown Dallas. This 1920s former bank underwent an extensive renovation and the smart lobby is filled with the art collection of owner Timothy Headington.
thejouledallas.com

Other places to rest your head:

1.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek
Rosewood hotel in a grand dame mansion.

2.
Sova
An affordable stay inspired by Japanese-hotels

3.
Hall Arts
Situated in the heart of the Arts District.

Thompson Dallas
Crowning glory

The Thompson’s suites offer the perfect perspective on the city. Located in The National, an iconic 51-storey building, much of the hotel’s interior takes its cues from the original 1960s design, conceived by architect George Dahl: brass clad walls and teak wood are emblematic of an earlier golden age. This theme continues into the lobby which is decked out with ceramics and artworks collected on international travels by Caroline Todd, whose firm Todd Interiors worked on the fitout. The hotel’s showpiece, however, can be found on the 49th floor: the Monarch restaurant dishes up some of the best views in town. Helmed by Michelin-starred chef Danny Grant, the Monarch’s wood-fired fare has made this the go-to destination for the well-heeled.
hyatt.com
monarchrestaurants.com

Department stores
Retail therapy

Department stores are intrinsic to the city’s history – they are, after all, where Texans go to shop. Founded in Dallas, Neiman Marcus is an icon of mid-century luxury and its white terracotta-fronted flagship has stood on Main Street since 1914. “We’re as much rooted in the city’s dna as Dallas is rooted in ours,” says Belgian CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck, who is returning the business to its luxury-first origins. The multibrand womenswear boutique Forty Five Ten taps into the same legacy and is a firm fixture in downtown Dallas.

The Adolphus
French fancy

Modelled on a beaux arts castle, The Adolphus hotel was built in 1912 by the German founder of the Anheuser-Busch brewery empire. This European flavour has been continued through the outpost’s redesign, which was completed in 2016. Make sure to visit The French Room, the popular onsite restaurant which serves classic French cuisine, as well as Commerce Goods + Supply, a shop stocked by local retail speci
adolphus.com

Highland Park
Suburban splendour

The grand mansions of Highland Park show the extraordinary wealth that once accumulated in Dallas’s suburbs. Southern Methodist University is the local landmark while Highland Park Village, which opened in 1931, is believed to be America’s first shopping centre. Today, there is a steady bustle about the area’s cafés and luxury retailers.

Shop
Hadleigh’s offers bespoke tailoring for men and women – its handmade slippers are a local favourite. “Everything is designed in-house, from our packaging to every last button,” says co-founder Ed Shaikh.
hadleighs.com

Dine
Stop at Sadelle’s for all-day brunch with New York-inspired dishes that’s popular post-shop.
sadelles.com

Bishop Arts District
On the make

The low-slung brick shopfronts and wide-porched bungalows of the Bishop Arts District are a respite from the bustling city centre. This walkable area has been extensively restored over the past decade and it is a haven for craft shops and cocktail bars.

Shop
Concept store Marcel Market offers an exclusive selection of French brands curated by its Parisian owners while nearby Poets Bookshop, run by local wordsmith Marco Cavazos, is also worth a browse.
marcel-market.com
poetsbookshop.com

Dine
Sleek all-day café Written By The Seasons opened in 2022. It has a quarterly menu that prides itself on its north Texas produce.
writtenbytheseasons.com

Dining destinations
All you can eat

1.
Muchacho Tex Mex
Dallas invented the frozen margarita: the first machine is at the Smithsonian Institution. Try a modern take here.
laharanch.com

2.
Terry Black’s Barbecue
They take barbecue seriously in Dallas – the mayor suggests Terry Black’s in Deep Ellum.
terryblacksbbq.com

3.
Rex’s Seafood & Market
Oysters at the farmers’ market is a Friday tradition.
rexsseafood.com

Knox-Henderson
Top of the shops

This crossroads (dubbed as Dallas’s future retail hub) is welcoming major brands and independent retailers who want to sit between downtown and the affluent suburbs.

Shop
Founded in Austin, Stag stocks a Texas-inspired menswear edit with shirts ready for the prairies by Beams Plus, Universal Works and Faherty. Shoppers will also spy a wide-brimmed hat or two here, and eyewear by California’s Garrett Leight.
stagprovisions.com

Dine
Clifton Club is a new cocktail bar on the fringe of Knox- Henderson run by South African Greg Katz. “Dallas was missing a place to go for pre-dinner drinks,” says Katz, who also runs Beverley’s Bistro & Bar nextdoor.

Katy Trail
The green miles

Before the Highline opened in New York, there was the Katy Trail in Dallas: in 2000, a stretch of abandoned Union Pacific Railroad was turned into a greenbelt stretching from Uptown to Highland Park. The path is an artery for joggers and cyclists, and acts as a respite from its concrete surrounds. Pop-up art installations have become regular features and the track now hosts an annual 5K race. As the local saying goes: “Trains don’t run here anymore, Dallas does.” Thankfully, there’s the Katy Trail Ice House on the route, where cold Texan drafts are served in the garden.

Southern style

Dallas Design District
One-stop shop

Once a collection of dusty 1950s warehouses on the banks of the Trinity River, the Dallas Design District is now one of the country’s great shopping clusters. Home to more than 500 showrooms and galleries: Moroccan rugs and lighting shops sit alongside specialists in reclaimed lumber and surfacing. Neighbourhood mainstay Sputnik Modern has been seeking out mid-century furniture for over 20 years: “Shop owners want to keep the area’s authenticity, while also building something new,” says founder Chris Thurman, whose Mies van der Rohe Barcelona stools caught our eye. The area is also home to the Dallas Decorative Center, a leafy, secluded collection of retailers that was built in 1954. Stop at Scott + Cooner for hidden gems by Poliform, Cassina and Moooi and finish up with a hearty Italian dinner at modern outpost, Carbone’s.
dallasdesigndistrict.com

Swoon the Studio
Open house

Swoon the Studio made its name while working on branding projects for the likes of Dallas Museum of Art and department store Neiman Marcus, but it has since completed interior design ventures in its signature understated style. Swoon’s co-founders Samantha Sano and Joslyn Taylor recently finished work on Charleston boutique hotel, Emeline: “We wanted to work with clients that we connect with aesthetically or philosophically,” says Taylor. “There’s a real openness to new ideas here.”
swoonthestudio.com

Mirror architecture
Time to reflect

No one has shaped the Dallas skyline as much as IM Pei, the late Chinese-American architect who conceived five major buildings in the city. In fact, urban planners took Pei’s adage that “Architecture is the mirror of life” to heart: the skyline is awash with mirror-clad high-rises. Built in the 1970s by various designers, these glitzy skyscrapers reflect the flashiness of the era’s banking boom – not least the Campbell Centre, its façade finished with a fine gold sheen. While this style of architecture is often dismissed as opaque and corporate, others see value in this school of American brutalism. “These buildings are meant to look sculptured and futuristic but were actually economical,” says architectural historian Daniel Paul. “They keep out the light and the heat but you also get something quite glitzy.”

Q&A
Creative spirit

Executive director
Carolina Alvarez-Mathies

The recently-appointed director of Dallas Contemporary, Carolina Alvarez-Mathies has a grand vision for the art museum. Originally from El Salvador, she’s pushing to make this purveyor of daring exhibitions a linchpin of the city’s creative community.

What is your vision for Dallas Contemporary?
It is our mission to present the most compelling art of this era, from both a local and international perspective. I want to establish new platforms for innovation within Dallas’s art scene itself and reimagine the role this institution plays.

How will the museum change with you at the helm?
I’ve been asking myself how we can build a stronger community of creatives here in Dallas. We also want to look at more programming that crosses disciplines as well as find ways to engage a broader audience. We’re doing our first-ever summer series this year, with day and evening events from pop-ups by local makers through to a partnership with Dallas-based label Dolfin Records, which will curate a set of performances.

Tell us about the art scene.
The level of commitment from patrons here is unparalleled. Whatever the institution – the ballet, the opera or a contemporary museum like ours – Texans are continually supportive and open. Dallas is fast becoming competitive as a major arts city in the US.
dallascontemporary.org

Ghost signs
Bricking it

Many of the hand-painted business signs that adorned the city streets in the early-20th century are still going strong today. Sean Starr, a modern-day sign painter working in Dallas, says these “ghost signs” are a record of the area’s successive boom eras from the turn of the century through to the 1950s. The colourful brickwork at the restored East Quarter Residences in downtown Dallas is particularly striking. The bricks were originally shipped to the area as cheap materials following the Great Chicago Fire in 1871, which laid waste to much of the Illinois city. The mix of hues still visible on the bricks today is from the various hand-painted signs that would have once adorned them.

Nasher Sculpture Center
On home turf

Dallas mall moguls Raymond and Patsy Nasher were the owners of an extraordinary collection of postwar and contemporary sculpture. What began as a fascination with pre-Columbian art from Latin America developed when the couple acquired pieces by Jean Arp and Henry Moore – by the time the Nasher Sculpture Center was launched in 2003 in the city’s Arts District, the pair had amassed more than 300 masterpieces. “As their collection grew, they started to envision a way to showcase their beloved pieces to the public,” says curator Jed Morse. “Lucky for us, it remained right here in Dallas.” Works by Pablo Picasso and Barbara Hepworth can be seen alongside American masters Alexander Calder, Donald Judd and Richard Serra.
nashersculpturecenter.org

Modern Electric Sound Recorders
Texans in town

Dating back to the 1960s, the Modern Electric Sound Recorders has been carefully restored over the past decade by owner Jeffrey Saenz. Today, vintage touches hark back to the great West Coast studios, such as Sunset Sound. “Dallas is a music hub and we’ve seen the city draw notable artists away from their homes in New York, Nashville and LA to record here,” says Saenz. The studio has seen homegrown talent such as Leon Bridges and The Texas Gentlemen lay down tracks at its microphones.
modernelectricsound.com

Plug into Dallas’s rich live-music scene at these stops.

1.
The Factory in Deep Ellum
Don’t be fooled by the modest exterior, this downtown venue plays host to the greats.
thefactoryindeepellum.com

2.
Granada Theatre
This art deco icon is a firm stop for touring bands – its storied stage has welcomed the likes of Adele and Dolly Parton.
granadatheater.com

3.
Club Dada
Club Dada and its neon facade has been drawing in a loyal late-night crowd since 1986.
dadadallas.com

New kids in town

Tangram
Smart move

As Dallas’s population expands, so does the infrastructure: new schools and offices are currently being built around the city. Enter Tangram. The Californian business – which designs furniture fit-outs for work and learning environments – opened a Dallas office in 2021. “We needed to be where the butts on seats are,” says Tangram’s vice president of sales Amber Jones. The company’s southern operation is its first base outside California, but being three hours from either coast helps the firm serve customers across the US. “Dallas made a lot of sense for us.”
tangraminteriors.com

Dialexa
Tech on the horizon

Dallas may not be a tech hub like Austin yet, says Scott Harper, who co-founded Dialexa in 2010 alongside Mark Haidar, but over the last two years the pair have more than doubled their coders and designers to 250 people. Most are based at the company’s head office in East Quarter. Recent projects include a tool for monitoring eye health and software for Dallas-based Parkhub, a startup that has bagged $100m (€93m) in investments. “Dallas has already got a lot of talent and is attracting more,” says Harper.
dialexa.com

The businesses Dallas needs
Calling all entrepreneurs

1.
Room to grow

With the beloved Belmont Hotel’s doors shuttered, there’s a gap in the market for an evocative boutique replacement.

2.
Not the average corn dog

A healthy street-food concept serving the new parks downtown.

3.
Breaking news

City kiosks: finding a newspaper or magazine can be a challenge. It’s time for change.

4.
Novel approach

Dallas is calling out for a central bookshop that specialises in international titles.

5.
Local sole

Residents should walk the walk with a shoe brand that shows off Made in Dallas.

Galderma
Smooth operator

Galderma has a long history of smoothing wrinkles in northern Texas. The Swiss skincare brand evolved from a company founded in Dallas in 1961 and has since developed many of its products in Fort Worth labs. In 2022, the firm moved its US headquarters – and 400-strong workforce – to the city’s downtown area.

“Dallas has always been a great marketplace for us, so moving here was a bridge to that,” says Diane Gomez-Thinnes, head of Galderma US. “There is real energy in the revitalisation of this city.”
galderma.com

Who’s new in town?
Office migration

Toyota has moved its US headquarters to Plano, a city in north Texas, while Californian infrastructure giant aecom is repositioning its global base to Dallas. Jacobs Engineering, another West Coast firm, made the move six years ago. But a major influx is coming from investment bank Goldman Sachs, with almost 4,000 employees relocating to the area. Oliver Cooke works for a recruiter that has helped 100 workers move to the state over the past year: “Dallas is in the middle of the country and, when it comes to real estate, it’s much more affordable than New York or California.”

The Dallas Morning News
Read all about it

The city’s much-loved local paper The Dallas Morning News was founded in 1885 and has nine Pulitzer prizes under its belt. Recently, the daily has seen a surge of new business as people move to the city: in 2021, the paper saw a 22 per cent rise in digital subscriptions and a bump in print sales. “When you look at who is moving to Dallas and the census projections for where we’re going to be, we have to present that with our coverage. We have to tell these stories and cover the inequities,” says executive editor Katrice Hardy, the first black journalist to take the reins of the paper. “Pulitzers are amazing but it’s the work behind these awards that benefits the community.”
dallasmorningnews.com

Lucchese Bootmaker
Best foot forward

There are few items as Texan as the cowboy boot and, despite being designed for cattle-driving ranchers at the end of the American civil war, these sturdy shoes have endured as business attire. In Dallas, you’re as likely to see them donned with a well-cut suit as a pair of Wranglers. The 130-year-old Lucchese Bootmaker has helped keep the style one step ahead. “They’ve remained a staple in Texas,” says Stephanie Saunders of Lucchese’s Dallas shop. “The cowboy hat has become more of a companion for the rodeo or a day on the ranch.”
lucchese.com

Neighborhood Services
Branching out

Chef Nick Badovinus has built an empire of restaurants across Dallas over the last 20 years and is now taking Neighborhood Services, the brand he built locally, into Arizona and Kentucky. One of his outposts, National Anthem (pictured) in East Quarter, serves classic all-American plates with a few flourishes in a restored 1920s gas station. In short, he has found his niche in the city. “Dallas is a place where all the current food fashions are represented but that’s not necessarily the reason why people are going out. Service still matters here, there’s a real spirit of hospitality.”

Originally from Seattle, Badovinus says he finds the Dallas food scene less reserved and more eager to support new ventures. “This is a city that roots for its own.”
nationalanthemdtx.com