A pharaoh eagle-owl named Shamsa flicked her amber eyes upwards towards the rafters of the Sheikh Saeed Hall 3 in the Dubai Convention Centre. Had she spotted a rogue dove or a gate-crashing white-eared bulbul hiding from the oppressive heat outside? Whatever she had seen, the bird from Al Ain Zoo was, for the briefest of moments, the only thing that was motionless at the Arabian Travel Market (ATM), which concluded yesterday.  
Amid the 2,800 exhibitors and 55,000 visitors – from tourism boards and destination marketers to hotel groups, airlines and delegations from 166 nations – there were retinues of basket weavers, oud players and Malaysian dancers. Here are some of the things that Monocle learned at (and beyond) the fair:

Next stop: Future Street?
The UAE literally changes faster than satnavs and apps can track. Old place names reveal past priorities. One busy thoroughfare – already once re-named Happiness Street and moved – has now been re-dubbed Al Mustaqbal (“Future Street”). That’s one way to signal the nation’s direction of travel, I suppose.
 
Viva Ras Vegas?
Less well-known Emirates such as Ras Al-Khaimah have plenty to offer. Sometimes, their appeal lies in the fact that they are exactly what more boisterous neighbours such as Dubai aren’t: think a quieter coastline, closeness to nature and mountain views. That said, Ras Al-Khaimah’s plans to open a casino are a gamble that many are watching closely. 

Away with the tides
The word “old” can feel like an overstatement in a city as young as Dubai (its first high-rise landed in the late 1970s) but there’s a growing sense that some things need to be preserved for posterity. An anonymous photography project started in 2021 is chronicling details of traditional villas and abandoned sites along its coastal residential stretch. “Goodbye Old Jumeirah” shows what is lost when we move fast.
 
A new chapter for UAE publishing?
Japanese bookseller Kinokinoya in Dubai Mall is, forgive the cliché, an oasis in what’s otherwise a desert for print and newsstands. The vast space is piled high with hard-to-find books and excellent magazines, Monocle and Konfekt included. Doesn’t the absence of a homegrown alternative present an opportunity for a great UAE firm to take the lead with a great bookshop brand and kiosk concept? 
 
Trump this
Potus progeny Eric Trump was in town on Tuesday to mark the inauguration of two new Trump-branded towers with developer Dar Global in Dubai (see you in the 2030s). Will they one day house casinos too? Don’t bet against it.
 
Think of the children
Abu Dhabi’s summer campaign is all about children and what they make of the Emirate. A trip to the new Teamlab Phenomena museum on Saadiyat Island with our publisher, Luke, confirmed some suspicions: it takes a mature destination to confidently market to kids. The museum is also genuinely wonderful. Go. It’s a hoot.
 
Forever changes
There’s an article in Gulf News showcasing exhibitions from previous iterations of the Arabian Travel Market from the past three decades. Some a little dated, the pictures reveal the rapid progress and increasing sophistication of Dubai’s brand and how the city has evolved from hopeful beach resort to booming business hub. But I do wonder whether we’ll look back and ask: was it really necessary to drag that poor eagle-owl into the conference hall? The Emirates are turning heads without it.
 
Fehnert is Monocle’s editor. For more on-the-ground reporting and comment, subscribe today.

Canada’s newly minted prime minister, Mark Carney, will host the G7 next month and a crucial question remains unanswered: what should be done with the $300bn (€265bn) of frozen Russian assets held by Western nations (asks Aaron Burnett)? This will be high on the agenda in mid-June when world leaders land in Kananaskis, Alberta. Carney will need to decide whether or not he will urge colleagues to seize these assets and prevent an effective bailout for Vladimir Putin if countries such as Hungary or Slovakia veto a freeze extension in July. In an open letter published in Canada’s National Post in April, more than 70 signatories, including former prime minister Stephen Harper, ex-cabinet ministers, lawyers, economists and security experts, warned that there’s no ducking this decision and that the country needs to show leadership on the issue.

It’s murky legal territory. Critics of the idea say that it sets a dangerous precedent. But Canada could move quickly, seizing the CA$22bn (€14bn) in funds and transferring them into a compensation trust for Ukraine. Carney is, after all, well positioned to make that happen as both the country’s main parties support the measure, along with more than 80 per cent of Canadians. Despite being home to a Ukrainian diaspora of 1.4 million people, Canada has been accused of not giving enough support to the besieged nation. As the Great White North curbs its economic reliance on the US and looks to establish a fresh footing in the world, now is the time to lead.

New Delhi has inked a €6.7bn contract with Dassault Aviation for 26 Rafale fighter jets (writes Rory Jones). When delivered, the aircraft will add to India’s current 36-strong Rafale fleet, bolstering the aerial assets of the rising power. Given the strained relations on the subcontinent, this purchase seems significant: tensions have escalated since a terror attack in India-controlled Kashmir on 22 April killed 26 people – an attack that India says had Pakistani support.

Threats and concerns of cross-border violence have followed. But the acquisition is also part of India’s long-term strategy of countering China’s naval build-up in the Indian Ocean and establishing its own independence as a military power. “From New Delhi’s perspective, this is about modernising its air power and reducing dependence on Russian equipment,” says Monocle’s security correspondent, Gorana Grgic. “The deal is a boon for France too, helping to achieve its ambitions of bolstering industrial and defence ties across the Indo-Pacific.”

Grocery shopping often feels like a chore. But across the globe, smart retailers are showing that it can offer far more than just loud packaging, harsh strip lighting and busy, unappealing displays. In Monocle’s May issue, we meet a few entrepreneurs who are going the extra mile to entice and excite their customers. From a Danish supermarket brand encouraging healthier eating habits to a taste of luxury in Ho Chi Minh City, grocery shops are evolving. First up is a delightful family-run business in Australia.

LoSurdo’s has been trading fruits and vegetables in Sydney for two generations. Earlier this year, it opened a vast new flagship shop in Chatswood Chase, featuring a dazzling array of fresh produce from across Australasia, as well as a delicatessen, a fishmonger and a section for dry goods. “Consideration of customer flow was key – how a patron moves through the space,” says Mark Landini, the founder of Landini Associates. His practice worked on every facet of the new shop, from the signage to the uniforms making use of the brand’s signature colours: green and white. “Efficiency was the starting point,” says Landini. “The look of the space was the last part we considered.”
 
To see Monocle’s rundown of grocery shops, click here.

Massimiliano Lorenzelli founded art gallery Lorenzelli Upcoming Projects Organisation (Lupo) in 2021 to champion emerging artists such as Italy’s Giuditta Branconi and Seoul-based Seongjin Jeong. As well as operating a gallery in Milan’s Porta Venezia, he is now launching a second space in the city’s Isola neighbourhood. Here, he tells us about building a creative network and why it’s crucial to engage with younger audiences.

How did the idea for Lupo come about?
My dream was to work with artists who were close to my age and grow with them. I’m 30 now and most of the people who I work with are younger. When we started in 2021, there weren’t many galleries in Milan selling contemporary art by young people. We now host six or seven exhibitions a year and are moving to a bigger space. We’re showing in Brussels and Miami too.
 
Why was there a lack of galleries showcasing younger talent?
In Italy collectors are often old – and the galleries are even older. We’re trying to create a new generation of collectors but it’s difficult. All of my friends in London or the US regularly go to shows but people here feel distanced from art. That’s why I want to encourage younger people to get involved.
 
How do you want visitors to feel in your gallery?
Lupo is a place for people to meet. It’s not only about selling art, it’s also about creating a network. Italian creatives encounter their international peers here and organise trips to London or Paris. We also put together dinners and events.
 
For more on Lupo and other art organisations, pick up a copy of our Salone del Mobile special newspaper.

We recap some of the most exciting city-focused conversations from Monocle’s The Chiefs conference in Jakarta.

It’s still mostly the best of times for Donald Trump as his second administration reaches the 100-day mark. Since returning to the White House on 20 January, the president has mostly delivered on the slash-and-burn agenda that he laid out on the campaign trail. The US’s southern border has been closed, contentious DEI and “gender ideology” policies are being dismantled and billions – if not trillions – of dollars in governmental waste is slated to be accounted for. So what happens next? Most likely it’ll be more of the same, albeit with even more intention, precision and bombast.

Hundreds of thousands of protestors formed a viable and vocal resistance at the beginning of Trump’s first term. This time around, despite a late-hour protest surge this month, that resistance has been largely silent. Even amid the upheaval of Trump’s tariffs and sliding approval numbers, his mandate remains rock solid. This means more pressure on Ukrainian president Volodymyr Zelensky to concede territory and a more direct attitude towards Israel’s neighbours and enemies, even if we may yet see a new nuclear deal between the US and Iran, and a framework that would bring Saudi Arabia into the Abraham Accords with Israel. The Gaza crisis, meanwhile, will not be settled by midsummer. But Gazans themselves might be resettled in meaningful numbers if Trump enacts his plan to transfer Palestinians – at least those who desire to leave – out of the embattled enclave.  
 
Back in the US, Trump’s mass deportation strategy – though at times craven if not cruel – has managed to skirt the limits of legality and is likely to continue and probably widen its net. Just this week the president issued yet another immigration-related executive order, this time targeting the so-called “sanctuary cities” that have attempted to resist federal efforts to arrest undocumented migrants. Such increasingly punitive actions are almost certain to continue and intensify. Again, it’s all about an undeterred sense of mandate. One thing that is assured to continue unabated for the next 100 days and beyond is the murky business deals between the Trump family and the private sector. Perhaps the great symbol of all this is Trump’s crypto operation, World Liberty Financial, which has secured more than $550m in sales since the election season. Like Donald Trump himself, no one appears able – or perhaps willing – to slow it down.  

Kaufman is an editor and columnist at ‘The New York Post’. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.

When the power went out across mainland Portugal and Spain this week, something quite magical happened (writes Carlota Rebelo). With screens dark, inboxes inaccessible and transit brought to a halt, life quietly spilled back onto the streets. From across Portugal, I heard stories of ice-cream vendors handing out free scoops to delighted passers-by, restaurants putting their barbecues outside on the cobblestones and children reclaiming the roadsides for games of football. Portuguese media outlets showed images of neighbours gathering on balconies around battery-powered radios, people playing cards aboard stranded trams and parks filled with blankets topped with friends clinking glasses.

While the power has since returned, this blackout became a candlelit masterclass in coming together. It showed that when deprived of digital distractions, people could more easily gather, chat and laugh – a kind of buzz that felt as rare as it did analogue. Over the coming days and weeks, the infrastructural fragilities this event exposed will be investigated. But for now, it’s worth pausing to savour what emerged when things went dark: community, spontaneity and the quiet joy of simply being together – a reminder that connection doesn’t always require wi-fi.

Spanish beauty-and-fashion group Puig has reported a sales increase of 7.5 per cent in the first quarter of 2025, with revenues reaching €1.2bn (writes Natalie Theodosi). Its continued strength mirrors the boom in the fragrance industry, which is taking place across both prestige and niche categories. In a statement, the group name-checked the success of fragrances by Carolina Herrera, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Byredo. Skincare and fashion categories are also proving resilient, with makeup being the only outlier.

“We’re continuing to stay ahead of the premium beauty market,” says CEO Marc Puig. “We’re pleased to see growth across all regions, with the Americas outperforming [other locations].” Puig remains one of the few luxury groups that’s maintaining its growth outlook for the rest of the year, while still accounting for US tariffs and regional price increases.

When Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022, one primary school teacher in the town of Karabash initiated his own, quiet counter-offensive (writes Tomos Lewis). Pavel Talankin, known as Pasha, rebelled against the Kremlin’s imposition of a school curriculum that propagandised the country’s motives for war. His efforts are chronicled in a new offbeat documentary, Mr Nobody Against Putin, which Talankin co-directed with US filmmaker David Borenstein.

The documentary is one of 113 screening at Hot Docs festival in Toronto, which runs until 4 May. The event has long been a premier showcase for international, non-fiction films. This year’s edition features documentaries from 47 countries, including Ai Weiwei’s Turandot, which chronicles the Chinese artist’s production of Puccini’s famous opera, and Spreadsheet Champions, an irreverent look at the world’s elite Excel users as they compete at the 2023 Microsoft Office Specialist World Championship in Florida. It’s better than it sounds – director Kristina Kraskov might just have found a winning formula.

After textile-to-textile recycling firm Renewcell went bankrupt last year, Stockholm-based private equity company Altor stepped in, acquiring the remaining assets and appointing former H&M CEO Helena Helmersson as chair. Her aim is to revive the venture under the name of its flagship product, Circulose.

What is Circulose?
It’s a cellulosic pulp made from cotton-rich textiles. We shred them, remove dyes and eliminate contaminants such as polyester. What remains is cellulose, a biodegradable polymer that we dry into sheets and supply to fibre producers, who use it as a sustainable alternative to virgin wood pulp and cotton. It’s the first and only chemical textile-to-textile recycling at scale and we have both the technology and an established factory.
 
You were at H&M, an investor in Renewcell, before the recycling firm’s collapse. What will you do differently?
We’re focusing on making the product more accessible. For many brands, integrating a pulp such as Circulose into supply chains while maintaining competitive pricing isn’t easy. Our goal is to remove these barriers and create a seamless transition.
 
Why is the process complex?
The textile supply chain involves fibre producers, spinners, weavers and garment manufacturers. While larger brands might have a clear view of their supply chains, understanding and tracking every stage remains difficult for smaller ones. We aim to reopen the factory next year but only once we’re confident that demand is stable.
circulo.se

The William Morris Gallery celebrates the versatility and popularity of the designer’s patterns in its latest exhibition.

When my grandmother left the UK on a ship bound for Australia after the Second World War, she took with her a rose-tinted vision of her birth country that revolved around Cornishware, wisteria in bloom and afternoons browsing the Liberty haberdashery. Since moving to London, I have found that this nostalgic perception of the UK largely fails to hold up. The Liberty department store, however, remains a beacon of considered retail in the city’s West End, where international conglomerates otherwise dominate.

There’s a time and a place for mass-market retail and denying this often sounds out of touch. Department stores have an important role to play when it comes to championing smaller, high-quality brands that might not be able to cut through the noise. I was at Liberty yesterday morning to preview a new atrium installation that celebrates a range from To My Ships, the personal-care brand founded by ex-Aesop entrepreneur Daniel Bense. Launched in September 2024, the brand is a newcomer to the beauty market but its deodorants, soaps and perfumes are a cut above anything that I have tested in recent years. The opportunity to take centre stage in one of London’s most storied department stores will help the company increase visibility and convince customers to take a punt after thorough in-person sniffing and swatching.
 
At their best, department stores such as Paris’s Le Bon Marché and Tokyo’s Isetan are tastemakers. When I spoke to Liberty employees over coffee, the process of vetting new products – from beauty to leather goods – often came up as the most rewarding part of their jobs. Before the doors swung open at 10.00, a team of shop-floor workers gathered in the haberdashery for a speedy morning run-through about available stock. It was a welcome reminder that good bricks-and-mortar retail depends on knowledgeable staff who take care of customers by curating offerings and putting novelty on show. London might not always live up to my grandmother’s descriptions – except during the two weeks of summer – but there’s always Liberty.

Charlton is Monocle’s associate editor of design and fashion. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.

For more about the power of department stores, read about their golden age in the US here. 

With the papal conclave that will select the next pontiff set to begin next week, all eyes are on nations with large Catholic populations and the cardinals who could succeed the late Pope Francis. Here, we get the view from the Philippines, Ghana and Brazil, three countries where the next Vicar of Christ could potentially come from.

The Philippines
The liberal pick: Cardinal Luis Antonio Tagle
By Richard Heydarian, academic and columnist

As many as six million Filipinos showed up for Pope Francis’s visit to the Philippines in 2015, a world record that reflects the profundity of the country’s devotion to Catholicism. This is one of the world’s most devout nations and there’s an informal public understanding among Catholics here that it would be disrespectful to talk about succession during the nine-day grieving period for Pope Francis. Deep down, however, many Filipinos hope that the next pontiff will bring the same spirit of openness and inclusiveness to the Vatican. There are three Filipino cardinals heading into the conclave; among them, Cardinal Luis Antonio Tagle is seen as the most progressive. He has made strong statements about discrimination and prejudice against the LGBTQ community and those who are going through divorce. But during my visit to the Vatican, I sensed that Italy’s Pietro Parolin is the favourite among cardinals who are invested in the continuity of Pope Francis’s legacy. Still, history tells us that early favourites are not necessarily the one who is chosen.

To read the full story from Ghana and Brazil, see here.

It has been a short two weeks since the lively opening party at Kaptain Sunshine’s new Tokyo flagship and business is brisk. Designer Shinsuke Kojima is on the shop floor as a trio of young South Korean tourists, a dapper Japanese gent and a pair of well-dressed Tokyo friends are all browsing and buying. Clearly the word is out that the brand has opened its first standalone shop. “We’re happy with how it’s going,” says Kojima, surveying the throng. “A third of the customers are coming from overseas.”

To read the full article, click here.

Following its merger in late 2024 with Asiana Airlines, one of South Korea’s dominant carriers, Korean Air is planning to build Asia’s largest flight-training school (writes Julia Lasica). Part of a larger investment of 1.2 trillion won (€741.9m), the centre will be one section of the new aviation research and training hub that Korean Air announced this week.

Based in the southern city of Bucheon, the hub will train more than 20,000 pilots a year and employ 1,000 personnel, including researchers and flight instructors. It’s an ambitious project in a nation that is itself a rising star of aviation and will make use of AI-powered software to train commercial and defence-orientated unmanned aerial vehicles. With the sector struggling with a dearth of skilled, flight-ready workers, the announcement of the flight-training school – which is expected to be completed in 2030 – comes as welcome news.

New York-based novelist, journalist and critic Katie Kitamura was longlisted for the National Book Award and the Pen/Faulkner Award for her 2021 novel, Intimacies. Her fifth book, Audition, tells the story of an actress who meets a compelling yet troubling young man. Here, Kitamura discusses her favourite writers and moral ambiguity in fiction.

The protagonist of ‘Audition’ is an actress. What drew you to this profession as a subject?      
I have always been interested in performance. She is someone who plays many roles in her life. That’s something that all of us can relate to.

Your books often explore questions of moral and narrative ambiguity. Why?
I’m rarely drawn to stories in which things are cut and dried. I prefer books that are open to interpretation. In a lot of ways, the work of a novel is to make the reader a little uncomfortable. I wouldn’t want to write a book that felt cosy.

Who are some of your favourite writers?
I love Marguerite Duras and Javier Marías. The latter was a Spanish writer who set up situations with impossible ethical questions and made the reader live in those spaces. Kenzaburō Ōe is also important to me.
‘Audition’ is published by Riverhead Books.

An ode to Italian hospitality. Two brothers from Bologna discuss the global expansion of their pizza chain Berberè. Then: we raise a glass with the long-time friends from Cosenza leading London’s Bar 45.