As southern Europe swelters under increasingly hot summers, holidays spent in the north (or so-called “coolcations”) are becoming more appealing than ever. Tucked into the shores of the Baltic Sea, the Estonian town of Pärnu – located less than a two-hour drive from the capital Tallinn – offers a summer getaway with sandy beaches, crisp sea air and a relaxed lifestyle that has long been a well-kept secret among locals and neighbouring nations.
Aptly nicknamed the country’s “summer capital”, Pärnu has drawn Estonian sunseekers for more than two centuries. Now Finns, Latvians, Swedes and a growing number of Germans are also flocking to its coastline in the summer months – but the destination remains refreshingly under the radar of most international tourists. As Janeli Tehver, marketing manager at the Hedon Spa & Hotel, puts it: “We are seeing more and more global visitors but Pärnu still feels distinctly local. That means guests get a truly authentic experience.”
Authenticity is indeed one of Pärnu’s greatest charms. Unlike many overdeveloped European resorts where there are scant signs of regional culture, this town still feels lived-in and loved by its people. The rhythm is unhurried, and its scale is walkable with green parks and the sea never far away.
The main draw is its beach – a wide stretch of warm sand that wouldn’t feel out of place in the Balearic Islands. A paved promenade runs the length of the waterfront, linking some of Estonia’s most stylish seaside hangouts. At one end of the trail you’ll find Junimperium Beach Bar – run by the eponymous Tallinn gin distillery – serves crisp cocktails with a view of the dunes. Ice cream kiosks and easy-going taverns dot the path, while the shore swings from laid-back sunbathing to live-music events as the day slips into evening. For a refined dinner, Nordic restaurant Raimond at Hedon Spa & Hotel offers sea-to-table dishes with fresh, local produce. “It’s not just about a spa stay,” says Tehver. “We create an atmosphere. People come here to unplug, reconnect and eat well.”
Pärnu’s identity as a wellness destination is no accident. The town’s spa history dates back to 1838, when the first seawater bathing house opened its doors. A century later, modernist hotels and sanatoriums were added – including the iconic Rannahotell, a gleaming white functionalist building that remains a pearl against the dunes. Built in 1937, the hotel’s construction was initiated by Estonia’s then-president, Konstantin Päts, and became a symbol of the nation’s youthful modernity. “This place has soul,” says Oliver Paasik, Rannahotell’s general manager. “People say that it’s like stepping back in time but with all the comforts of today.” Though the hotel doesn’t have a spa – “We’re surrounded by them,” says Paasik – the neighbouring Hedon Spa & Hotel offers everything from serene pools to mud treatments using mineral-rich peat sourced from Estonian islands.
Events such as Pärnu Music Festival bring jazz, classical and indie acts to the town’s leafy parks and art-deco theatres, while summer nights buzz with open-air cinema screenings, food festivals and pop-up dance floors. As a sign of the resort’s vitality, on the day that Monocle visits, a €50m seaside hotel development is announced – the largest Pärnu has ever seen.
Northern summers might be short (June to August is prime time) but they’re all the sweeter for it. Temperatures hover around a pleasant 25C, and the waters of the Baltic Sea feel reinvigorating and crisp. But Pärnu’s charm goes beyond its agreeable climate. It has to do with the sense of discovery that many popular Mediterranean beach resorts lost in the wake of mass tourism. Exploration is at the heart of why people travel and in Pärnu that feeling is alive and well.
Though visitors escaping Spanish or Greek temperatures haven’t started arriving in droves (“Not yet,” says Tehver), the sentiment is growing. “As southern Europe gets hotter, people will look north. It’s only a matter of time,” she says. Paasik agrees, albeit with a chuckle. “We’ve joked that it’s Estonia’s best-kept secret. So maybe don’t tell too many people.”
Sorry about that.
At this time of year the streets of Peschiera del Garda are clogged with traffic as holidaymakers descend on the lakeside town. Alongside the Italians flocking to second homes and annual rentals, many of the number plates stuck in gridlock display the letter D – a testament to the fact that this picturesque corner of northern Italy becomes mini-Deutschland during the summer months.
The Germans are lured by the cypress trees and swimming spots, as well as the five-hour drive time from Munich. Though they head for restaurants and aperitivo bars, they’re missing out on the true dolce vita. While Garda’s lakeside establishments offer great views of the water, they completely miss out on what makes Italy such a beguiling place: the sagra.
The sagra doesn’t really have an Anglosphere equivalent. Often organised by the local parish, it’s an evening-time village party, which is usually a celebration of a patron saint or seasonal food (the annual asparagus festival is held in Cavallino-Treporti in late April). The one that we recently attended in Castion Veronese with my Italian family seemed to be entirely devoid of tourists. My sister-in-law, Annapaola, couldn’t help but wonder why foreigners didn’t partake in the experience. “The sagra is a slice of Italian life,” she told me. “And it’s authentic.”
Authentic would be one way to put it. Raw and unpretentious would be another. Take the relaxed approach to parking, for example. Naturally, no dedicated spaces have been provided, so people become intrepid. A patch of grass on a roadside hillock that leaves the car tottering at a 35-degree angle? Ideal, apparently. With the prime spots taken, we slowly drive down a bike lane and park next to it.
Though a sagra might sometimes have a religious element, this takes a back seat to the main event: feasting and drinking. “You always eat well here,” said my sister-in-law as we dined on lamb arrosticini (grilled skewers) and a traditional and thoroughly satisfying Veneto dish that you’d struggle to find on menus around the lake: risotto al Tastasal (a homely white-rice dish made with pork sausage). It’s washed down with beers for €3 and cocktails for €5 – prices that the Germans by the lake are unlikely to find.
An authentic Italian experience also means bringing the kids along, no matter the time. Children sat around the stage as a concert struck up, featuring a cover band of Italian pop group 883, cranking out 1990s hits at an ear-splitting volume. It was all rather lost on me, though after five years in Italy I did know one of their songs: the hilariously named “Hanno ucciso l’Uomo Ragno” (“They killed Spiderman”). Aside from the music, there were also plenty of giostre (rides) to keep the children entertained until the wee hours, as well as trampolines and a bouncy castle. It was all wonderfully chaotic.
In a country where so much has been constructed to appeal to what a tourist thinks is a real Italian experience, the sagra is the real deal. These village festivals are about as far away from souvenir shops and English menus as it’s possible to get. As much of Lake Garda becomes bundled up to appeal to the Aperol Spritz-laced idea of the perfect summer, the sagra is a place to revel in Italians just being Italians: family time and simple pleasures. It’s nothing special – but it’s special precisely because of that.
Ed Stocker is Monocle’s Europe editor at large. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.
There’s something about the silence that feels almost suspicious at first. A sort of soft hum that replaces the usual roar. Fewer honks, fewer screeches. Fewer Lamborghinis with loud exhausts idling outside cafés. In Dubai, this eerie hush can only mean one thing: summer has arrived.
To the untrained eye or ear, it might appear that the city has decamped entirely. Indeed, much of it has. Between the months of late June and early September, a sizeable proportion of Dubai’s residents flee for cooler climes: Lebanon’s breezy mountains, London’s mild drizzle or the Swiss lakes if you’re in the private-jet set. What they leave behind is a city that suddenly feels as though it’s exhaling.
But for those of us staying put, it’s not all that bad. In fact, it’s oddly delightful. The roads, which during the rest of the year resemble a scene from Mad Max, are now serene, forgiving stretches of tarmac. I can cruise down Sheikh Zayed Road without being cut off by a window-tinted Range Rover hurrying to brunch. And here’s a novelty: the green light doesn’t disappear before my foot touches the pedal.
Even in my apartment block, the signs of summer are unmistakable. Many of the flashy cars; Ferraris, G Wagons and Porsches are tucked under protective covers like prized race horses stabled for the season. Their owners, presumably somewhere in Saint-Tropez or sipping espressos in Milan, have gone, leaving behind a quieter car park and the dissipating scent of cologne in the elevators.
Of course, the city takes full advantage of this lull in human activity. Entire swathes of junctions are transformed into giant pits, with armies of construction workers (bless them, truly) chiselling and drilling under the scorching sun to birth a new flyover or two. If I’m unlucky, my perfectly calm route to work one morning might suddenly resemble a Formula 1 obstacle course the next. But even this has a certain rhythm to it – a kind of summer waltz between detours and diversions.
Malls, the great air-conditioned cathedrals of Dubai, are blessedly less chaotic too. No more queueing for a table at a café that insists on serving lattes with smoke machines. The luxury of browsing in peace, even lingering near a Dior window display without being elbowed by a tourist, is one of the true pleasures of the off-season.
Restaurants, meanwhile, become infinitely more accommodating. That table at Gaia? Available. A booth at LPM? Take your pick. There’s no need to drop the “Do you know who I know?” line when booking, or call in a favour via a friend who once worked PR for the joint. The city’s culinary circuit, usually booked solid from 18.00 to midnight, suddenly has space for spontaneity. And the waiters? Positively unhurried, chatty even.
Then there’s the swimming pool, the sacred refuge of sun-seeking residents. Come September, it will once again echo with the shrieks and cannonballs of excitable children. But now, in the searing summer haze, the pool is quiet. No rubber ducks. No iPads blaring cartoons. Just the soft ripple of water and maybe a business podcast in the background (this is Dubai, after all).
Evenings bring their own charm. With fewer social obligations, there’s time to stroll along the harbour without having to dodge selfie sticks or e-scooters. It might be humid and a bit sticky but the pace slows. The city, usually so obsessed with hyper-productivity, seems to grant itself permission to unwind.
Of course, this summer spell doesn’t last. The school term will soon restart, alongside Whatsapp groups pinging with flight confirmations. Instagram will once again fill with sun-kissed returnees declaring themselves “back in the sandpit”. But for now, I’m enjoying the stillness – the polite traffic, the empty malls, the peaceful swimming pools – as though it were a local secret whispered under the hum of the AC.
Summer in Dubai is sweltering but it’s also oddly soothing. For those of us who stick around, it’s a rare glimpse of the city unfiltered – quiet, comfortable and maybe even a little bit cool.
Summer isn’t merely a meteorological matter. As the temperature creeps up, the heat is on to make the most of your time off, soak up some sun and uncover a little inspiration (and why not cut a dash with some fresh trunks and a new towel, while you’re at it?). So our editors clubbed together to select 21 things to improve your summer, from the shades to have poking out of your pocket to the publications to stuff into your tote and thrillers to stack beside the lounger. We have identified the Portuguese ‘praia’ on which to host your family gathering, the nippiest set of wheels for an urban adventure and the breezy Mediterranean retailer for all of your warm-weather needs. What more do you need?
1.
Unexpected tipples
Poolside sundowners
Forget the dusty bar-cart staples and mix up your apéro this summer. For a Provençal turn, try Pastis 12/12, produced by Cristal Limiñana, one of Marseille’s oldest distilleries. Pour over ice for an anise-infused sipper with a hint of fig and sweet almond. Wermut, from Zürich restaurateur Marius Frehner and Kronenhalle alumnus Kaspar Fenkart, can add a subtly bitter but delightful spice to your negroni or goes down a treat neat on the rocks. “There hadn’t been much innovation in apéritifs in decades,” says Belgian entrepreneur Jules Delaere of his decision to found Midi Apéritifs and the thirsty new market that he discovered. Is there a better time than summer to shake things up?
pastis1212.com; wermut.ch; midiaperitifs.com
2.
Seeing through a new lens
The snapper to sling over your shoulder
The Sigma BF won “best camera” in The Monocle Design Awards 2025. This digital shooter was created by Japanese lens-maker Kazuto Yamaki, the CEO of Sigma, who set out to make a camera that would return users to the early days of photography with a product that’s little more than a lens and a body. The outcome of his deliberations is a stunning piece of stripped-back industrial design that marries beauty and function. Only people in daring swimwear will have more people turning their heads for a crafty peek.
sigma-global.com
3.
Knife in the water
Five thrillers that you’ll devour in days
It’s all too easy to nod off while reading on a scorching shoreline or a gently rocking boat. That’s where the killer thriller comes in – a dose of intrigue and murder to keep you alert on your lounger. It’s why so many holidaymakers have tracked the movements of George Smiley through the pages of John le Carré novels or revelled in Patricia Highsmith’s deliciously base and exquisitely rendered antiheroes. If you want a twist on the genre, pick up the new graphic novel adaptation of Raymond Chandler’s classic noir Trouble Is My Business.
1. Call for the Dead, John le Carré
2. Maigret Goes Home, Georges Simenon
3. Strangers on a Train, Patricia Highsmith
4. The Labyrinth House Murders, Yukito Ayatsuji
5. Trouble Is My Business, Raymond Chandler & Arvind Ethan David, illustrated by Ilias Kyriazis
4.
Family values
The setting for an overdue reunion
With its photogenic fishing villages and limestone cliffs towering above peerless beaches, Portugal’s southernmost Algarve region offers the peace required to host a family reunion. The Vilalara Grand Hotel in Praia das Gaivotas gets its name from founder George Ansliy’s granddaughter, Lara. He founded the property in 1966 before selling it two years later to the Swiss businessman Léon Levy, who helped to turn this magnificent hospitality outpost into a star-studded affair. Today its five restaurants cater to every taste and its thalassotherapy centre (back in the 1990s, it was the first to be built in Portugal) boasts relaxing treatments inspired by the Atlantic. This is one place that everyone in the family can agree on.
vilalara.com
5.
Undercover style
The best umbrella brand for beach, garden or terrace
For a parasol that suits outdoor terraces as well as Amalfi Coast beach clubs, UK company Plia has the best selection. Finding that most of the options available were poor in quality, unattractive or simply unfit for the British climate, Plia’s owner, Alex Sudron, began making her own. “We set out to make parasols that were more beautiful and interesting than usual,” she says. “But we didn’t want them to just be decorative.” Her products are colourful and fun but can withstand a storm: each umbrella is made with durable weather-resistant fabric, helped by strengthened corners, storm vents, double-sewn seams and a bamboo wood frame with rust-resistant stainless-steel fittings. They feature canopy fabric sourced from Europe and are sewn in a workshop in Cornwall.
pliaparasols.co.uk
6.
Swiss poise
The beach tote that smartens your look
The answer is surely a Monocle tote, no? Well, today we’re feeling generous and want to put in a word for the sturdy shoulder bag offered by Swiss media group NZZ. Made by Zürich-based brand Ilhement, the heavy cotton canvas shopper comes in two styles but we recommend the “blank” option, which is a crisp white and has “NZZ” emblazoned on one side and the manufacturer’s brand on the other. It will make you look considered and a little Swiss in your tastes even as you head across the sand in just your bathers. And that’s a good thing.
shop.nzz.ch
7.
Printed pages
The poolside periodicals to inspire your guests
Have an absorbing pile of print media for friends to dig into – because no matter how much we love them, we all suffer from a dose of hosting fatigue now and then.
1. Spanish homes and interiors magazine Manera. We adore Casa Brutus from Japan too.
2. The Monocle Companion: 50 Ideas on Architecture Design and Building Better is on sale from 26 June.
3. The summer edition of our sister title, Konfekt, with ideas for sunny hosting and a look at Catalan living.
4. The French Harper’s Bazaar Intérieurs for a cutting-edge look at how we live – or rather, how we should.
5. Finally, M Le Magazine du Monde, with its stellar coverage of everything from people in the news to fashion.
8.
Made in the shades
The eyewear poking from our pockets
Californian label Jacques Marie Mage has fast become the go-to eyewear brand for those in the know for its commitment to best-in-class quality: every pair is handcrafted in Japan from materials such as acetate and titanium, with the occasional addition of precious stones such as onyx and turquoise. Founder Jérôme Jacques Marie Mage is also known for his ability to make statements with his designs. He has a flair for unique coloured lenses and can seamlessly marry a medley of references, from art deco and the American West to Napoleon Bonaparte. This summer, we’ll be channelling the 1960s with the label’s amber-hued Fugue navigators.
jacquesmariemage.com
9.
Screen time
The cinema where you can enjoy a movie under the stars
Outdoor cinemas are found in almost every neighbourhood in Athens and, on a balmy evening in the city’s Exarcheia district, the Riviera theatre is buzzing with cinephiles. In the open-air courtyard, its single screen is framed by a wall of cascading greenery and hundreds of yellow canvas-backed director’s chairs fill out before the first showing at dusk. The theatre hasn’t changed much since 1969, when it was opened by Theodoros Rigas, who also owns the nearby Vox and Athinaia cinemas (today his daughter Peggy runs the operation). The Riviera shows classics by Alfred Hitchcock, Andrei Tarkovsky and Billy Wilder, as well as modern movies such as Barbie and Joker, but it’s also known throughout the neighbourhood for screening Greek movies and late-night cult classics.
46 Valtetsiou, Athens 106 81
10.
Easy does it
The slides for getting around town
Chances are that the slides in your closet are made from pvc or other synthetic materials. Make a better choice this summer by opting for a pair from Akvo, a new Parisian label by Belgo-Canadian designer Daphne Wattiez. After years of research, Wattiez resorted to using all-natural materials such as sugar-cane foam and a hemp-and-Tencel-blend for the straps. We recommend the label’s elegant Maro slides in sunny yellow – perfect for slipping on and nipping down to the beach for a sundowner or just shuffling around the cobbled streets of your favourite beach town.
akvoshop.com
Wattiez resorted to using all-natural materials such as sugar-cane foam and a hemp-and-Tencel-blend for the straps
11.
Short cuts
The trunks of choice
There might be better places in Italy to enjoy the summer than the landlocked Milan but can you name a city that you’d trust more with tailoring, even the type designed for the beach? Ripa Ripa is a Milan-based brand specialising in tailored swim shorts and clean, straight-leg cuts. That means no more parachuting trunks as you hit water or bulges – the unflattering waterlogged variety – as you step out. The sartorial nous of founders Anna Laura Hoefer and Oliviero Muzi Falconi doesn’t end there. They also added hand-stitched finishes and traditional sailing-boat cording for the ties. Mother-of-pearl buttons add the finishing touch.
riparipa.com
12.
Get on board
The trainers that’ll get you back on track
In summer, when there’s so much else to do, committing to exercise can sometimes take a little enticement. Consider getting yours in the form of New Balance’s Tom Knox trainers, with their low, sleek profile and cushioning for flexibility and comfort. Knox, one of the UK’s premier skateboarders, is behind the design and his British sensibility comes through in the style’s pragmatic elegance. These shoes will take you around town but will also hold their own on summer walks. Don’t forget to slip them into your suitcase before you jet off.
newbalance.com
13.
Sumptuous silverware
The cutest ice-cream cup and spoon
Georg Jensen shows us that silverware isn’t just meant to be displayed in a glass vitrine. Introduced this spring in Milan at its Salone pop-up ice-cream café, Gelateria Danese, this cup-and-spoon set was created in close collaboration with the brand’s Copenhagen silversmiths. It reimagines traditionally disposable items as lasting objects, crafted from Georg Jensen’s founding material: silver. The aim? To bring silver, in all of its beauty, into everyday life. “We’re challenging the perception that it’s untouchable,” says Georg Jensen’s creative director, Paula Gerbase. “What better way to do that than by introducing it into simple, everyday rituals such as having an ice-cream or a cup of coffee?”
georgjensen.com
“We’re challenging the perception that silver is untouchable”
14.
Sands of time
The watch to sport on the beach
If you’re not ready to give in entirely to holiday time fog, Swatch and Omega have come together for a playful collaboration that will keep you somewhat tethered to the real world and its rhythms. Combining luxury craftsmanship and street smarts, the Moonswatch range riffs on Omega’s iconic Speedmaster Moonwatch model. Each of the 11 styles corresponds to a different planetary body and comes in colours from pale blue to pastel pink and lemon yellow. Now, back to that snooze.
swatch.com
15.
Fresh impressions
The fragrance with a scent of summer
Sunny days call for a more laidback beauty routine but that doesn’t mean you should forgo a spritz of perfume. For Dimitra Louana Marlanti and Alexandros Kalogiros, co-founders of Greek fragrance boutique Phaon, citrus and green notes paired with floral elements such as neroli, jasmine and orange blossom are the perfect marriage for a sensual summer scent. “A good summer fragrance should feel as refreshing as a breeze or a splash,” says Marlanti. “It’s something fresh and uplifting that blends with your skin and enhances your natural scent without clashing with the heat.” Among the many brands stocked by Phaon, the pair’s picks of the season include Neroli Oranger by French perfumer Matiere Premiere, Fig by Perfumer H and 28° by Ormaie.
phaon-athens.com
“It’s something fresh and uplifting that blends with your skin and enhances your natural scent”
16.
Electric avenue
The nippiest car for urban adventures
The electric Renault 4, with an optional retractable canvas top, is the French car-maker’s newest model to hit the market. It comes after the success of the Renault 5 and is a fresh take on the classic R4, built in 1961. The latter sold in the millions over the course of more than 30 years and built the Renault brand and its reputation for laidback chic. Upgraded to a family-friendly ride with plenty of boot space, a sleek design and quick-charging lithium-ion battery, the Renault 4 is a modern equal to its beloved relative.
renault.fr
“Just in time for those breezy summer drives, it comes after the success of the Renault 5”
17.
Bold treatments
The Med fashion outlet that should kit you out
Fashion Clinic is one of Portugal’s most elegant shopping destinations, with outposts across the country. Its boutique in Comporta, a haven of sunny fashion, is well worth a visit in the summer months. “The clients in Comporta might be the same [as in Lisbon or Porto] but they are in a different mood so we always offer something special,” says Maria Pimentel, the retailer’s fashion director. “Our goal is to surprise.” Part of the surprise includes a series of artisanal brands that capture the more relaxed, bohemian spirit associated with the season: hand-embroidered men’s shirts by Paris-based Baziszt, tunics by Marrakshi Life and knit polos by Piacenza 1773. Pimentel recommends visiting with your fellow travellers. “A simple ‘This looks good on you’ from a friend will encourage you to make bolder choices.”
fashionclinic.com
18.
Soft touches
The towel brand to give you beach appeal
Relaunched in 2020, Torres Novas is one of Portugal’s top purveyor of beach towels, with a heritage that stretches back to 1845. Wherever you are in the world, a yellow-and-white striped number can evoke sun-soaked days on the sandy beaches of Cascais or tanning sessions by an aquamarine-hued pool in Comporta. Taking inspiration from 1940s designs, the towels’ vertical stripes bring a pleasingly retro flair to your beach bag. They also come in generous proportions and buttery-soft terry and cotton fabrics. You couldn’t pick a better beach companion if you tried.
torresnovas.com
“Wherever you are in the world, a yellow-and-white striped number can evoke sun-soaked days on the sandy beaches of Cascais”
19.
Case in point
The luggage label that’s under the radar
There’s no way around it: travelling in style means travelling light. This summer we’ll be bringing the Cubo Small cabin bag by Hong Kong-based Lojel on our city breaks and weekend escapes. With a nifty flat-top opening, the front compartment is designed to store laptops and documents and is easily accessible in tight spaces or in-flight, while the magnetic divider can be flipped up should you need to retrieve anything from the main body of the suitcase. The lightweight part-recycled polycarbonate shell makes it robust and reassuringly weather-proof too. And if you do pick up a few souvenirs along the way, the case can be expanded for the journey home.
lojel.com
20.
Smooth service
The perfectly formed gateway airport
We love compact airports and one of the most perfectly formed is Nice Côte d’Azur (NCE). This gateway to the south of France – whether you’re heading to Monaco (there’s a helicopter service), Antibes or your villa in the hills – somehow handles almost 15 million passengers a year. In addition to two commercial terminals, there’s a private one too. The retail offering is nicely focused, featuring Hermès and Zegna outposts. Best of all? If you’re staying in Nice and hit the traffic just right, you can be checking in to your hotel just 20 minutes after getting in the limo. Suffice to say, the people-watching at NCE is pretty good too.
21.
Ideas for a better world
The conversation starter
There’s one other thing that will really enhance your summer, leaving you inspired and with an address book full of fresh contacts, while revealing a new side of a Mediterranean city. You need a ticket for this year’s edition of Monocle’s Quality of Life Conference, which will take place in Barcelona from Thursday 4 to Saturday 6 September. There will be fun receptions, tours and a day of panels focused on making better businesses, cities and lives. Join us.
monocle.com/events
Illustrator: Antonio Sortino
