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How an elevated experience moved a Catalan concert hall to tears

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In last December’s issue of Monocle we ran a story about a Catalan tradition: the building of castells, or human towers. We sent our writer Julia Webster Ayuso to the city of Tarragona to attend a vast gathering of castellers, who were participating in a biannual competition in which groups of up to 300 people erect these crazy, gravity-defying towers. She was joined on her mission by photographer Julia Sellmann and together they delivered a story that really hit the mark. Because this was not just about acrobatics or Catalonian pride; these towers were a vibrant, universal, living example of what happens when we support each other, have each other’s backs.

It was a story that sat with me and continued to make me think about what happens when the strongest take the most weight, when we elevate the young. So when it was confirmed that the Monocle Quality of Life Conference would be in Barcelona, I had a rare clever idea – let’s ask a group of castellers to come to the conference and show off their skills. Hannah, who runs all of our events, somehow went with the commission and contacted Julia, who in turn set off to find our conference’s climactic moment.

That’s why, last week, as the conference day was concluding at the Palau de la Música Catalana in Barcelona, we ran a short film that we had made about this tradition. Even watching this began to catch my emotions. And then, as a surprise – it wasn’t listed in the programme, not even all our staff knew what was about to happen – the back doors of the auditorium opened and in marched 70 castellers, members of the Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia, beautifully attired in white trousers and blue shirts, with red sashes around their waists. The crowd stood and turned.

Now it just so happens that 70 castellers are a lot of people but, in the small space that we had kept clear at the front of the stage, they assembled and began to build the first tower, initially in silence, then to the rhythm of their musicians – the changing beat allowing those on the ground floor and in the centre, unable to see, to know what stage the tower had progressed. The group then made a second tower, atop of which clambered a young girl who unfurled a flag emblazoned with our Quality of Life symbol and the words, “Thank you! Gràcies!”. By the end of the day, when the presenters were assembling to take a Monocle equivalent of the final curtain, I looked over at Rob and Sophie to see tears on cheeks. I peered out across the roaring audience and saw person after person wiping away their tears too. Me? Almost sobbing. 

One of the castellers, Rafa, came up on stage to talk to Rob and I about this emblematic and emotional Catalan pastime. He explained how his three children had signed up; how they practised with the community twice a week; how people who were not originally from the region had been welcomed in; and why this giver of identity was flourishing.

But why had the building of a human tower had such a powerful effect on a room filled with Monocle readers and listeners, people who between them know so much, have seen so much? My colleague Josh suggested that these men, women and children had somehow demonstrated all of the things we had been debating on stage all day without saying a word  – how to make better cities, give people dignity through design, finding new sources of inspiration. And he was right.

Later, at the amazing gala dinner at La Paloma – an old dance hall – I spoke to our delegates about the day, about what they had come to Barcelona for, about their connection to Monocle. And, for a moment, I allowed myself to feel a little proud of what we have created at the heart of our brand. Why? Because in the stories that they told me about the connections they had made through the magazine, through meeting other delegates at events like this one over the years, and in looking around this humming, buzzing, joyful room, I could see that we have made something of our own castell. Our readers care, offer each other and their own communities support, strive to elevate their families, employees and neighbours. They are people who know what’s possible if you work in harmony with like-minded people. How the seemingly impossible can become reality.

Click here to explore the full collection of Andrew’s past columns.

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