Neighbourhoods

El Terreno
A party central that once lost its groove is now being reinvented for a new generation.

From the 1930s, El Terreno was the place to stay and party in Palma. It kept its cool allure after the Second World War when the likes of Errol Flynn (who had a house near Palma in the 1950s) and Marlene Dietrich frequented its clubs and bars. But its reputation took a fall by the 1970s and the area declined. Today, however, the neighbourhood is going through a vivid revival.

Plaza Gomila, the fulcrum for the glory days, has been reimagined by architecture studios MVRDV and Gras Reynès Arquitectos. In a series of colourfully painted buildings, you will now find Italian restaurant Brutus and Bar Bellver, a great spot to sit with a coffee and the newspaper in the morning. Just steps away is the Can Pa bakery, the space designed by British designer Jasper Morrison. Its red-and-white façade looks straight out of a Wes Anderson film.

The main road – Avenida Joan Miró – is still a bit grim in certain corners. But meander up the hill and you will find charming narrow streets with both grand and humble houses, along with some notable architecture including Hotel Can Quetglas – a fine example of Catalan modernisme. Wander up high enough and you’ll find gates that lead you into the parkland that surrounds Bellver Castle (a gentle hike brings you straight to its doors). Meanwhile, Lio, the celebrated cabaret club, is keeping the tradition of fun El Terreno nights alive. If you’re searching for something less nocturnal, consider a game of padel at the Terreno Club. And, finally, let’s hear it for the young businesses, such as lighting brand Contain, that have made this an entrepreneurial hotspot.

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Passeig de Mallorca
Walk this way for a glance at the city’s architectural history.

Palma was a wall-enclosed city until the late 19th century, when a decision was taken to knock most of the ramparts down and let the city breathe out. For a piece of history, let’s begin alongside the Es Baluard art museum, where a portion of the stones that once contained the city remains in situ. If you find yourself wanting for a morning coffee, look for the small park that houses Café Poupette. Otherwise, amble north along the river and take note of some bars and restaurants for later: Mambo for elevated tapas and fine cocktails, Ginbo Bar for more cocktails and Vermutería San Jaime, a good tapas venue with shaded alfresco seating.

The neighbourhood is also home to a series of architectural head turners such as Ohlab’s Passivhaus timber apartment building Paseo Mallorca 15, and Edificio Última Hora by Josep Alcocer, with an expansive façade covered in cooling wooden shutters.          

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Santa Catalina
A district packed with the city’s insider eats.

This former fishing community once sat just outside the city walls but is now at the heart of the action. The neighbourhood is home to dozens of bars and restaurants at every price point, as well as the buzzy Mercat de Santa Catalina, which is fringed by coffee bars, bakers and breakfast spots. The barrio is lively on a hot summer’s night – the fishermen of yore have now been replaced by crews from the hundreds of yachts that are docked in the nearby marinas.

For a premier dining experience, head to Spot, a restaurant run by Spanish hospitality company Grupo Tragaluz, which pulls a chic crowd with its handsome dining room and a menu inspired by Mexican, Japanese and Spanish cuisine. Patrón Lunares, named after a famed fishing skipper, is a fun-loving diner on Carrer de la Fàbrica serving Spanish recipes with a focus on seafood, while Giromatto is a go-to for a plate of pasta. Tuck in to tapas at La Rosa Catalina and neighbouring Ultramarinos de Santa Catalina.          

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