Bars and restaurants

Souen, Shoin Jinja
There’s a casual air to Souen, tea master Shinya Sakurai’s latest opening in the Shoin Jinja area. The shop specialises in original blends combining Japanese teas with fruits, flowers and more. Wagashi (traditional confectionery) and desserts also feature, while tea-based cocktails are served after dark.

Parklet, Nihonbashi Kobunacho
Freshly baked goods are at the heart of Parklet, an all-day bakery and café designed to feel like a natural extension of the neighbouring Horidome Children’s Park. Its sourdough bread, prepared in-house, is deservedly popular, while the rosemary scones and pastries go well with a hot brew made from beans roasted by Japan’s Overview Coffee.
Songbook, Daita
At this intimate 15-seat restaurant, Kyoto-born chef Kyohei Nishi applies his deep knowledge of European cuisines to the ever-changing Japanese menu. Expect high-quality domestic ingredients, from Kagoshima capon to kinkan citrus, prepared with the aid of a wood fire. The pizzas, cooked to perfection, are another draw.

Good Good Not Bad, Shibuya
Tucked away among the record shops and music venues of Udagawacho, Good Good Not Bad is an all-day coffee stand that’s clearly in tune with its surroundings. The menu, overseen by Camelback’s Keitaro Suzuki, includes all the espresso classics, as well as a mean matcha latte.
Take-chan, Ginza
Yakitori restaurant Take-chan started as a food cart in 1953, before opening its Mihara Dori space in 1957. Behind the U-shaped counter, seasoned hands prepare skewers over a binchōtan (white charcoal) grill. Two courses are on offer – eight pieces or five – pairing various chicken cuts with simple condiments and duck with homemade miso sauce.

Brillant, Nishi Shinjuku
Launched in 1980, Brillant is the main bar of the Keio Plaza Hotel. The colour-saturated interiors, which were crafted by pioneering designer Riki Watanabe, exude warmth and comfort. Soak up the bar’s atmosphere as the award-winning bartenders prepare signature cocktails such as the akitasugi gin gimlet with precision.
Ginza Swiss, Ginza
This classic grill has specialised in curries and yōshoku dishes (the Japanese take on Western food) since its opening in 1947. The centrepiece is Chiba’s curry cutlet, a fixture on the menu ever since Hall-of-Famer baseball player Shigeru Chiba requested it.

Gohanya Isshin, Daikanyama
Just across the road from Daikanyama Hillside Terrace, Isshin has gained a loyal following with its traditional Japanese fare. The lunch menu centres on teishoku set meals, while izakaya-style dining is the focus after dark. Another highlight is the rice – an original blend cooked to perfection and served in a wooden ohitsu container.
Kyoraku, Ginza
Founded in 1956, Kyoraku is well known for its delicious ramen, made by second-generation owner Kikuo Nakano and his son Kazuhiko. The simple yet powerful shoyu (soy-sauce) broth and thick handmade noodles are key to its appeal, while the wontons, also made in-house, have a delightfully supple, chewy texture.

Horaiya, Ueno
Dating back to 1912, Horaiya is one of Ueno’s “big three” tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) shops. The historic restaurant is the originator of the hirekatsu (pork fillet cutlet), which it has offered exclusively since its opening. The lightly battered meat has a refined, soft texture, perfectly complementing the tang of the Worcestershire sauce.