Neighbourhoods
Ginza
Bright lights, big city and department store heaven
The grid-like streets of Ginza are lined with luxury labels – but explore the neighbourhood on foot and you’ll discover plenty of history. Emerge from the station at Ginza Sony Park and take in Sony’s bold new building; don’t miss Hermès, designed by Renzo Piano, nextdoor. Now take in the famous department stores, stopping by the craft space in the newly refurbished basement of Wako – it was founded as a watch shop in 1881 and went on to become Seiko.
Don’t miss the depachika food hall of Mitsukoshi and the furniture and homeware at Matsuya’s Design Collection, which has been promoting Japanese design since 1955. Stop in at the multistorey Itoya, which has been selling stationery since 1904, and stock up on staples at Ginza Muji, the brand’s global flagship (which also has a hotel). Enjoy a Japanese lunch and green tea at Higashiya. Feeling revived, take in some traditional kabuki at Kabuki-za. Stroll along Chuo Dori and take in the shops (including a 12-storey Uniqlo). Beauty giant Shiseido started out as a Western-style pharmacy in Ginza in 1872 and is still here.
Tomigaya
Park life, a cosy atmosphere and Monocle’s Tokyo home
Monocle’s Tokyo shop and bureau are in Tomigaya, a friendly neighbourhood that sits behind Shibuya, close to Yoyogi Park. Start with a coffee at Little Nap and head out for some food and shopping. Make a quick stop at Onigily Café for an onigiri rice ball made from Niigata rice. Kenji and Eriko Suzuki stock an eclectic selection of illustrated books at Rhythm & Books. Cross over the road, passing Blue Lug bikes, and pop into Cut Salon Ban for a sharp cut and a shave. This area has coffee galore – we love Oslo outpost Fuglen and the two Camelbacks but take your pick.
For home goods and Japan-made dinnerware, head to Lost and Found; the plates are by Nikko, which has been making ceramics in Ishikawa since 1908. For lunch you could try Reikyo (Taiwanese) or Kakan (for spicy mapo tofu). The Monocle Shop is close at hand for all Monocle titles and collaborations with some of our favourite brands. Keep strolling along and you’ll find Shibuya Publishing & Booksellers and Provenance, a treasure trove of vintage pieces. Before you know it, you’ll be in Shibuya.
Aoyama
Impressive brand showcases and the perfect museum
Starting from Omotesando crossing, call in at Sanyodo Shoten, a family bookshop that has been serving the literati on this corner since 1931. Cross the road, passing an ikebana supplies shop and you will soon be in Issey Miyake territory; there are several iterations of the brand here. The Comme des Garçons flagship is a reminder why Rei Kawakubo continues to be such a creative force; next, swing by the Prada shop, a glass landmark designed by Herzog & de Meuron, and look across the road to see the small concrete Noh theatre.
Yoku Moku is good for a reviving cup of tea. Soon you’ll pass by the From 1st Building – don’t miss Hakusan for reasonably priced Kyushu-made tableware or the Imabari Towel Shop for towels made in Ehime. Keijiro Komori’s Comoli offers contemporary Japan-made fashion inside a building designed by Tadao Ando. Call in at Miyakawa for a tempura lunch before visiting the Nezu Museum, home to a fine collection of Japanese and Chinese art, set in an exquisite garden designed by Kengo Kuma.
