Bars and restaurants
La Zucca, Santa Croce
This restaurant (whose name means “the pumpkin”) serves comforting dishes that lean heavily on vegetables – the pumpkin flan, as you would expect, is a standout. The slatted oak boiserie gives the space a contemporary nautical feel and makes for a cosy after-dark spot.
Vino Vero, Cannaregio
This establishment serves natural wine made by excellent independent producers, many of which are based in the fertile Veneto region. Since opening in 2014, Vino Vero has easily become one of the most popular wine bars in town and you’ll find curators and artists kicking back here after a day at the Biennale. Not sure what to order? Follow the team’s recommendations – you’re in safe hands.
Corte Sconta, Castello
Lunch in Corte Sconta’s sun-dappled, vine-covered courtyard is the ideal way to refuel after a visit to the nearby Arsenale. The long tables, wicker chairs and paper placemats give this place a down-to-earth feel and the seafood is accomplished and refined.
Alle Testiere, Castello
Apart from a cascade of stickers pointing to the restaurant’s many accolades, the signage marking the entrance to Alle Testiere is discreet, so it’s easy to miss. This is one of the city’s best seafood spots, serving the catch of the day from the Rialto fish market in a small space with terrazzo floors. There are only a handful of tables, so make sure to book ahead.
Anice Stellato, Cannaregio
The rustic tables of Anice Stellato are a great place from which to understand the spirit of Venice. Dishes – such as carrots with coriander seeds and paprika, and anchovies with focaccia and vanilla butter – experiment with flavour combinations in a nod towards the city’s spice-trade heritage (the restaurant name translates to “star anise”).
Ai Artisti, Dorsoduro
This brick-lined restaurant between the Ca’ Rezzonico museum and Accademia Bridge in Dorsoduro might be small but it has a mighty wine list. Owners Francesca Ciancio and Vincenzo Buonfiglio established the canal-side bistro more than two decades ago to pay homage to the city’s cuisine and have been gently reinventing it since, with dishes such as cuttlefish spaghetti with fermented kiwi, and grilled lamb with oyster sauce and bergamot mayonnaise.
Alla Frasca, Cannaregio
Stumble across this osteria on a summer’s evening, when the tables spill out onto the square it’s set on, and you might feel as though you’ve entered the perfect vignette of Venetian life. The food is traditional – try the tomatoey seafood tagliatelle and the grilled tuna steak – and the atmosphere is charming.
Rosa Salva, Castello
This patisserie was founded in 1870. While there are four shops in Venice, we recommend the one near the Basilica di Santi Giovanni e Paolo (known as San Zanipolo) in Castello. Seeing its sign’s vintage typography is well worth the trip alone. Grab a coffee and a croissant (or a tramezzino) at the marble counter.
All’Arco, San Polo
Bàcari – wine bars where drinks come accompanied by cicchetti, little tartines slathered with anything from cod to salame and sardines – are a Venetian staple and All’Arco is arguably the finest of the lot. Stop by for a snack and a glass of prosecco.
Il Mercante, San Polo
There are many ornate hotel bars in town but for a moody nightcap somewhere secluded, head to this former 1870s café, which has been turned into a sleek, two-level cocktail spot. The drinks list is inventive and sharp, featuring ingredients from kombucha to fennel-seed cordial.
