As summer fades in the northern hemisphere, Bangkok is hitting its stride. The Thai capital is unveiling new restaurants and bars at a pace that can leave returning Europeans and Americans unsure of what’s worth their time. The simplest solution? Follow the locals. By that measure, one restaurant has clearly taken the city’s crown in recent months.

Soma, a modern Thai kitchen located on the ground floor of Siam Patumwan House (a new office tower next to the Bangkok Arts & Culture Centre in downtown Siam), has quickly become the city’s go-to. The 45-seat restaurant is headed by veteran chef Chalee Kader and chef Weerawat “Num” Triyasenawat, who co-founded Samuay & Sons in Udon Thani. “We wanted to open a place that’s relatable,” says Kader. “New Thai restaurants are either focused on delivering a homely experience or going the other way and becoming too complicated. We’re centred on creating a contemporary atmosphere that has been missing in the market.” 

The menu is familiar but fresh. Must-tries include khao klook kapi (shrimp-paste rice with sweet braised pork), green curry with tenderloin and massaman beef cheek. “Our menu is straightforward and follows a structure,” says Kader. “If we take out a curry, we replace it with a different kind of soup and the same goes for a rice dish.” 

Plates are precise without being precious. Bite-sized starters – such as fish tartare with rice crackers or stir-fried crab with curry powder in a coconut tuile – are presented on mismatched crockery. This isn’t a white-tablecloth destination but a convivial canteen, proven by the tables of colleagues and friends ordering generously from the sharing menu. “We designed Soma with cosiness in mind,” says Kader. “It’s a social kitchen – a place for wine and easy conversation.”

Soma is the latest restaurant from the Phornprapha family, owners of Siam Motors and Siam Patumwan House. Their hospitality venture, the Kaleido Lifestyle Group, is looking to transform Siam Patumwan House into a dining destination. A new Japanese restaurant will soon open next to Soma, though the latter continues to create its own buzz. Months after opening, it has become a regular fixture for a weekday dinner.

Contemporary sculptures by artists such as Yayoi Kusama and Pinaree Sanpitak are a hallmark of Siam Patumwan House, and the creative thread continues inside Soma. The artworks on display belong to the private collection of a Phornprapha family member and Kaleido Lifestyle co-founder. Highlights include revered Thai street artist Alex Face, contemporary Thai artist Korakrit Arunanondchai and Japanese painter Tomoo Gokita. The interior walls, along with the artworks, can be rotated to create different settings and a fresh experience for returning diners. “The vibe and the walls are my favourite things,” says Kader. “You don’t see Thai restaurants like this in Bangkok.” 

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Three more Bangkok restaurants on our rotation: 

1.
Somsak
Somsak is the latest establishment by the colourful team behind Fatboy Izakaya. The restaurant offers cuisine from Thailand’s northeastern Isan region to the international crowd in Bangkok’s Ekkamai district. Raw meat and papaya salad (somtum) are served up under the glow of neon signs and brightly hued bulbs – a contemporary homage to Isan culture.  

2.
Khao San Sek
Khao San Sek is a Thai restaurant from Michelin-star chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij of Potong fame. The menu at this renovated Chinatown shophouse reinterprets classic dishes, such as pork ribs with salted egg; crispy golden chicken wing with stuffed chilli; and pineapple and grilled pomfret with a splash of chilli garlic relish. 

3.
Maru Maru Pizza 
A stylish take on an urban pizza joint, Maru Maru Pizza is well worth travelling to the east end of Sukhumvit Road. A sprawling open kitchen serves up crispy, thin slices of pizza in a dimly lit setting. The anchovy-laden, cheeseless signature Burro Rosso pizza can be enjoyed with a cocktail inside a hidden lounge bar.

Tap here to enjoy Monocle’s full city guide to Bangkok, including a downloadable Google Map.