The quiet luxury of Keurbooms, South Africa’s chic coastal retreat

As the northern hemisphere cools and leaves fall, it’s worth remembering that it’s summer somewhere – specifically in Keurboomstrand, a small, unpretentious beach town along South Africa’s coastal Garden Route. A few hours east of Cape Town, where mid-December temperatures linger near 26C, the town remains a well-kept secret among those who return year after year for its long, lazy days by the water and evenings spent barbecuing with friends and family.

Until recently, most holidaymakers in Keurboomstrand would rent houses or stay in a hotel in the nearby town of Plettenberg Bay. That changed with the stylish arrival of Blou in Keurbooms, a collection of eight whitewashed beachside cottages from the team behind The Newt in Somerset and Babylonstoren in the Cape Winelands. Only visible from a small bay, the cottage selection boasts ocean views and bright, open spaces. The self-catering bungalows mimic Cape Dutch-style architecture, which features white walls, pitched ceilings and glass-walled kitchens along with neutral living rooms and patios (complete with those aforementioned BBQs). The best choices for booking are the ocean-facing suites with decks looking out to dolphins surfing the wild Indian Ocean. In the leafy courtyards, you’ll find a swimming pool, sauna and steam room. 

There isn’t an overwhelming number of places to eat and shop in this neck of the woods but that’s precisely the charm. The town’s only restaurant, Enrico Ristorante, is worth the visit to enjoy exquisite views of the beach, teamed with its fresh, flavourful dinner offerings. On busy nights, patrons waiting for a table can sip on crisp gin and tonics while overlooking the sand. Once seated, Monocle recommends an order of the daily catch with lemon butter and a glass of chilled wine. 

Twenty minutes east, you’ll find a handful of farms producing stellar sparkling wine. Small wineries such as Kay & Monty and Newstead Lund Family Vineyards are making a name for themselves, not only for their fizz but also thanks to their picturesque dining spots. At Newstead, its restaurant is situated in a farmhouse-style building that tumbles onto a wide green lawn fringed with grapevines. Gathered around long tables, patrons can enjoy locally-sourced food with a glass of chenin or sparkling wine. Nearby, Kay & Monty is set in a giant glass-walled barn, offering a menu featuring cured meats, local cheeses and flatbread topped with lamb and yoghurt dressing. 

On the western side of Keurboomstrand is the busier town of Plettenberg Bay, where sunseekers flock for their fix of pilates, green juices and sea air. Days begin with a dip in the sea before a perfectly balanced coffee at Seakrit Spot, where tables spill out onto a lush green patio. The main drag is decorated with boutiques inviting a leisurely browse: stop by the The Village Bookshop, which delivers a robust collection of work by African authors, and Pezula for coastal-living furnishings including coffee-table books, glassware, throws and hand-painted ceramics. Just a 10-minute drive away is Ice Dream Land – an Italian-owned gem whose theme-park-like name belies its credentials. Expect wood-fired pizzas, silky gelato and even homemade burrata to take away.

This stretch of the coast is to South Africans what the Riviera and Amalfi Coast are to Europeans in summer – but decidedly more laid-back. Don’t forget to stock up on cheese, preserves and bread at Thyme and Again, just five minutes from Blou. Back at base, uncork a bottle of local wine and fire up the braai as the waves crash below. Staying here is a gentle reminder that somewhere far north it’s boot season but here, it’s most certainly not.