Principles of style
We ask two fashion buyers what they look for when selecting brands for their shop and for their top picks for this season and beyond.
The first Strasburgo shop opened in 1992 in Osaka. Today there are nine in Japan and one in Shanghai. Strasburgo’s men’s department sells the latest by Maison Kitsuné, Herno, Incotex, Edward Green and the in-house Strasburgo line – all selected by Lidea’s owner Junji Tajima and his team of buyers.
How do you select the brands and garments you offer at Strasburgo?
I am fascinated with craftsmanship and I select pieces that are handmade. I like to explain to my customers how to take care of their wardrobe and to help them understand the culture of tailoring.
What brands are on your radar?
Cruciani’s sweater in cashmere and silk, Edward Green’s Top Drawer shoes, a shirt by Fray. I’d also recommend investing in jackets and suits by Lardini. For travelling, my pick is a bespoke Harris Tweed jacket by Eral 55, a denim shirt by Barba, stretch denim jeans by Siviglia and a pair of New Balance 991 trainers.
What’s typical of Japanese men’s style?
Excellent fitting. Japanese customers are starting to understand the importance of well-made garment. If people get the fit right, every style looks neat and refined.
Your favourite menswear shops?
Hollywood Ranch Market, Okura and Shinanoya in Japan. I also like shopping at Barneys in New York and Eral 55 in Milan.
strasburgo.co.jp
1.
Reversible pocketable coat
By Rvr Lardini
lardinirvr.it
2.
Cashmere and silk knit vest
By Cruciani
cruciani.net
3.
Laminar coat
By Herno
herno.it
4.
Pochettes
By Simonnot-Godard
simonnot-godard.com
5.
Glasses
By RetroSpecs & Co.
retrospecs.com
6.
Ballpoint pen
By Dolce Vita
dolcevita.com
7.
Cotton and silk ties
By Kiton
kiton.it
8.
Casquette
By General Design for Strasburgo
strasburgo.co.jp
9.
Solaro blazer
By Revival from Strasburgo
strasburgo.co.jp
10.
Shoes
By Edward Green Top Drawer
edwardgreen.co.uk
11.
Watch
By Patek Philippe
patek.com
12.
Trousers
By Incotex
slowear.com
13.
Silk scarves
By Hermès
hermes.com
14.
Dress-shirt
By Fray
frayitaly.com
15.
Socks
By Antipast
antipast.jp
16.
New Balance 991 trainers
newbalance.com
17.
Belt
By Tes
tessrl.it
18.
Jeans
By Warehouse for Strasburgo
strasburgo.co.jp
19.
Bag
By Cisei
atelierbonhomme.com/cisei
20.
Underwear
By Zimmerli
zimmerli.com
Cecilia Steiner
Nitty Gritty
Stockholm
Stockholm’s Nitty Gritty started out in 1991 offering a selection of menswear and has since become one of the capital’s most respected clothing retailers. Two decades later, Nitty Gritty’s womenswear boutique opened two doors down, on Krukmakargatan street. The new venture’s brand portfolio was entrusted to Cecilia Steiner, former visual merchandiser at PUB, one of Stockholm’s biggest department stores.
What is your approach to buying?
I use my very beloved gut feeling combined with a decent amount of brains. We work with a lot of international labels and always need to consider what would work in our market, price-wise and quality-wise. I trust a great item will speak for itself rather than letting a famous brand do all the talking.
What are the best brands to invest in right now?
I have a soft spot for Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Dries van Noten, Preen, Céline, Aspesi and Isabel Marant. What all these brands have in common is that you can find great quality pieces of excellent cuts and materials that you won’t grow tired of. Right now, men’s-style shoes are in: any brogue style by Church’s, for example. If you need to invest in a shirt, make sure its by British shirt-maker Palmer//Harding.
Top women’s wardrobe staples?
Most importantly, good shoes! Without those, all your effort is lost. Of course, a well-made blazer; as for accessories, every woman should have a handbag she loves, a statement belt and a beautiful necklace.
Best travel combo?
A pair of comfy sneakers or boots – flats, that is. Cosy, luxurious socks by Falke – a dash of cashmere in there makes all the difference. Always bring a soft, warm scarf that can double as a blanket or a pillow.
What can the rest of the world learn from Swedish women’s style?
Swedish style is pure and simple: straight cuts, not that much fuss. Scandinavian women are very practical. They want their clothes to work for everyday life.
What are your favourite womenswear retailers in Sweden?
Nitty Gritty of course, JUS in Stockholm for consistent style, and the newly opened Designers Corner in Rådhuset in Uppsala.
nittygrittystore.com
1.
Suit
By Isabel Marant
isabelmarant.tm.fr
2.
Bag
By boyy
boyybag.com
3.
Trench coat
By Barena
barenavenezia.com
4.
Leather wallet
By Tod’s
tods.com
5.
Shoulder bag
By Jérôme Dreyfuss
jerome-dreyfuss.com
6.
Top
By Preen
preen.eu
7.
Belt
By Margo
bymargo.net
8.
Dress
By A.P.C.
apc.fr
9.
T-shirt
By Helmut Lang
helmutlang.com
10.
Fragrance Pulp
By Byredo
byredo.com
11.
Enamel cuff
By Lizzie Fortunato
lizziefortunatojewels.com
12.
Gold watch
By Cartier
cartier.com
13.
Sweater
By Barena
barenavenezia.com
14.
Necklace
By Cornelia Webb
corneliawebb.com
15.
Sunglasses
By Oliver Peoples
oliverpeoples.com
16.
Glasses
By Moscot
moscot.com
17.
Cotton shirt
By Palmer//Harding
palmerharding.4ormat.com
18.
Pencil skirt
By House of Dagmar
houseofdagmar.se
19.
Jeans
By Skargorn
thekounsil.com
20.
Boots
By Church’s
church-footwear.com
21.
Shoes
By Jil Sander
jilsander.com
22.
Ballerina flats
By Chloé
chloe.com
23.
Cashmere socks
By Falke
falke.com
24.
Trainers
By Common Projects
commonprojects.com
Images: Nakashi Nishizawa, Anders Gramer
