Peacocks on safari and other observations from this year’s Pitti Immagine Uomo
Monocle reports back from the biannual menswear fair, with learnings from the runway and the trade floor.
The 110th edition of biannual menswear trade fair Pitti Immagine Uomo comes to a close today. Monocle has been on the ground at Florence’s Fortezza da Basso to take the industry’s temperature. Here are five observations from the fair.
1.
Whether or not it’s worth the time or money to set up a booth at Pitti is a frequent topic of discussion among brands. “We hadn’t been at Pitti for a few years but we decided to return to see how it has changed,” says Marin Corti, co-founder of St-Tropez-based resortwear brand Baindemer. “We make T-shirts out of wood and shorts out of superfine silk but it’s hard to stand out and to tell our story when all the booths look the same.” Some exhibitors professed frustration at the old-school Italian business mentality that pervades Pitti – namely, a reliance on putting pen to paper to make orders instead of using digital systems. But other exhibitors say that the trek to the Tuscan capital is worthwhile. “For us, this is always an important moment to make sales and meet new buyers,” a sales rep at London-based sunglasses brand Oscar Deen tells Monocle. “It’s a no-brainer to return year on year.”
2.
If the lovingly (or perhaps derisively) named “Pitti peacocks” are anything to go by, it’s time to invest in a safari jacket. This summer the men preening for attention at the Fortezza da Basso and on the narrow streets of Florence have leaned into pocket-forward numbers, cinched in just so at the waist. We have our eye on a navy linen version by Manhattan-based menswear label J Mueser or Armani’s classic beige take. For those prepared to take their Pitti-inspired look to the next level, a straw boater hat by Herno, paired with a leather briefcase, is strongly encouraged.
3.
The guest designer slot is always a highlight of the Pitti programme. This year, Irish designer Simone Rocha presents her first independent menswear collection at the event, following in the footsteps of Giorgio Armani, Jean Paul Gaultier and Yohji Yamamoto. Rocha’s work is best known for its whimsy, oversized proportions and intricate embellishments. Bringing this identity to menswear is an opportunity for Rocha to rise to a new challenge.
4.
Away from the fashion capitals of Paris and Milan, there is talent brewing in Florence. On Monday evening, 20 graduates of Polimoda (the city’s highly regarded fashion school) presented the culmination of four years of studies at the Manifattura Tabbacchi. As with any student showcase, there were a variety of ideas on the runway. Ukrainian student Evelina Kryvopust’s collection was inspired by the archetype of the piano teacher. For Thai graduate Jirat Jitdee, the experience of moving from the countryside to Bangkok influenced shirts with loud prints and sarongs. Whether these students go on to start their own brands or find placements at luxury fashion houses, the next generation is coming prepared with fresh ideas.
5.
In Florence, the undisputed master of ceremonies remains Brunello Cucinelli. The Italian septuagenarian’s Pitti dinners are a masterclass in the power of a great venue and generous portions of pasta. On Tuesday night, guests gathered in the cloisters of the Santa Maria Novella church (steps away from frescoes by Domenico Ghirlandaio and a Giotto crucifix) to toast his brand’s summer collection.
