Monocle’s Style Top 25: the best designers, makers and retailers redefining luxury
The luxury industry is slowing down, with a growing focus on timelessness and craft. We present our survey of style experts who create designs with quality at its core.
1.
H-O-R-S-E, USA
Fit for purpose
The perfectly executed basics and minimal silhouettes of California-based activewear brand H-O-R-S-E are made with the gym in mind. Inspired by PE uniforms and vintage sports clothing, the kits – including shorts, matching sweatshirts and T-shirts – are made using 100 per cent cotton fabrics. The results are light, breathable and practical, harking back to a time when going to the gym was a straightforward affair.
“Fitness has become increasingly regimented,” says the brand’s founder, Sue Williamson. “You might have to spend €35 on a class, schedule around it and commute. But real fitness is about moving your body, picking up something heavy, squatting and running. We’re making clothes for that.” In the future, Williamson hopes to launch new styles, explore other natural materials such as hemp and wool, and expand into accessories. For now, the brand is taking it slow. “We’re going at our own pace,” she says.
h-o-r-s-e.net
2.
Nitty Gritty, Sweden
Best in store
Tucked away in Krukmakargatan, a quiet street south of central Stockholm, multi-brand boutique Nitty Gritty was among the first to put the city on the fashion map. “We always try to find the most interesting brands around the world to present to Stockholm – and, through our website, to the world,” says Marcus Söderlind, the shop’s owner. His approach to curation prioritises labels that pay attention to the details and aren’t distributed too widely. Silhouettes tend to be loose, with oversized shirts, parkas and barrel-leg trousers in the mix.
For this autumn, Söderlind has picked up fellow Swedish label Salon C Lundman and Norlha, a yak khullu wool atelier from the Tibetan plateau. There’s also an in-house line, Nitty Gritty Worldwide, whose collections are built on a simple idea: every item should be made by the artisans with the most expertise, wherever they might be.
Nitty Gritty’s success is also down to the sense of community that it fosters in-store – every visit is an experience and there’s always something new to discover, including art exhibitions of emerging and established talent. Music is just as central: DJs and musicians perform there most weeks, reinforcing the shop’s status as a cultural hub.
nittygrittystore.com
3.
Nami, France
New to market
Every season, Paris-based Philippine Namy looks to Scotland to inspire her label Nami’s collections. References can vary from the architecture of Charles Rennie Mackintosh to golf or the uniform of a lighthouse keeper. As a child, Namy spent many family holidays in the Highlands, where her grandfather owned a house. “I find the folklore of Scotland fascinating,” she tells Monocle. “Every collection tells a story of the country, though I avoid gimmicks such as kilts.”
Instead, details carry a narrative. A side pocket on a pair of suit trousers is a reference to where golfers store their tees. A broderie-anglaise light cotton dress evokes Celtic tunics. The tailoring of wool trousers, flannel shirts and waterproof cotton-canvas jackets is kept sharp and a little oversized.
With extensive experience in the fashion industry, notably at French label Isabel Marant, Namy was well placed to build a sustainable supply chain. She began by sourcing deadstock fabric from LVMH brands when she launched the business in 2024. When demand picked up, she forged partnerships with Italian and Scottish mills, where she sources materials such as silk-and-cashmere blends, herringbone twills and angora mohair wool. “I want Nami customers to feel like they’re wearing clothes that have been passed down through generations,” says Namy. “It’s a homage to my family and our time spent in Scotland.”
namiofficiel.com
4.
Kiivu, Japan
The atelier brand
Tokyo might be Japan’s fashion capital but new brand Kiivu is making a name for itself in the small coastal town of Onomichi in Hiroshima prefecture. Its proposition is simple: unisex garments made with fabrics produced by Sanyo Senko, a century-old dyeing house from nearby Fukuyama, and sewn by a team of female seamstresses who migrated here from a nearby sewing factory that recently shut down. Sanyo Senko wanted to offer the women a space where they could continue their craft and the combination makes perfect sense – the women’s peerless sewing skills have been preserved and the dyeing factory can now produce fully fledged collections and show off its craft to the broader industry.
Everything at Kiivu begins with the fabric and continues in-house, from textile development to dyeing and sewing. Clean lines allow the fabrics to shine in corduroy shirt-jackets, pigment-dyed chinos and the softest indigo denim – the kind that could only be produced by an atelier brand.
kiivu.jp
Belt by Giorgio Armani
Shoes by Paraboot X Sunspel
Scarf by Bigi Cravatte for Trunk
5.
Burberry, UK
The comeback
For autumn/winter, Burberry is returning to its roots: checks, rainwear and plenty of British charm. The brand’s creative director, Daniel Lee, has put particular emphasis on outerwear, including signature trenches (updated with embossed leather), intricate shearling and jacquard-weave floor-length coats – that he imagines Londoners slipping into before boarding the train and escaping to the countryside for the weekend.
“It’s that Friday-night exodus from London – long, rainy walks in the great outdoors and day trips to stately homes,” says Lee. Alongside the CEO, Joshua Schulman, he has been helping to put Burberry back on the map by turning every collection and brand campaign into a celebration of the city of London and all things British. “We’ve been looking at tropes of classic British film and television and all their deeply layered social observations,” says the designer.
burberry.com
Shoes by Paraboot
6.
Fendi, Italy
Fit for collectors
Edoardo and Adele Casagrande Fendi founded their eponymous brand a century ago. This year, Silvia Fendi pays homage to her family’s business with a collection that evokes Roman refinement: think A-line leather dresses, boiled-wool coats and oversized leather trenches. For her first womenswear collection, she wanted to relive her memories of growing up in the Fendi atelier and seeing Hollywood movie stars passing through.
fendi.com
7.
Luca Ferreira, Switzerland
Menswear maverick
Luca Hasler established Luca Ferreira in his hometown of Zürich in 2022. “I wanted to show people that Switzerland can produce some amazing clothes,” says the founder and creative director.
Before launching his label, Hasler worked in a bespoke-suit shop, where he developed a sharp eye for made-to-measure tailoring. Those influences have helped to shape his brand’s signature two-piece wool sets. Working primarily with Swiss mill Schoeller Textil, the label’s bestselling knits are crafted from fibres such as merino wool, cotton and silk blends. Other pieces are produced in small factories in Italy and Portugal, where Hasler frequently visits to delve into textile archives and gather inspiration for his designs. “I call my clients first movers,” says Hasler. “They’re willing to try new things and have an instinct for well-made clothes.”
lucaferreira.com
8.
Olga Basha, USA
Best denim
Celine Eriksen, the founder of New York denim brand Olga Basha, understands that there’s such a thing as having too much choice. It’s why her label offers jeans in two made-to-order unisex styles: low-rise and mid-rise, both straight cut with a button fly. “Our focus might seem narrow but we find joy in obsessing over the details,” says Eriksen.
olga-basha.com
Pocket square by Bigi Cravatte for Trunk
9.
Bottega Veneta, Italy
Must-visit
This autumn is a pivotal season for Bottega Veneta. The Italian luxury label is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its signature intrecciato (interwoven) leather, while preparing to unveil the first collection by its new creative director, Louise Trotter. To celebrate this milestone, the house has launched the “Craft Is Our Language” campaign, paying homage to Italian graphic designer Bruno Munari and highlighting the house’s commitment to handwork: intrecciato clothing and accessories require the expertise of artisans who weave the leather by hand. “For 50 years, intrecciato has embodied Bottega Veneta’s craft and creativity,” Leo Rongone, the brand’s CEO, tells Monocle. “From the start, the house was defined by the softness of its leather and the excellence of its craftsmanship.”
A pop-up space in London’s Harrods is in the works for September. The interiors will feature interlocking wood and concrete structures – another nod to the label’s signature style.
bottegaveneta.com
10.
Aimé, UK
London’s best-kept secret
When French-Cambodian sisters Val and Vanda Heng-Vong moved to London from Paris in 1999, they found themselves missing the quintessential French brands that they knew back home. They took a big bet on Notting Hill’s Ledbury Road – there was little but antiques shops in the area at the time – and opened Aimé, stocking Parisian favourites from Repetto ballerina flats to APC denim and Isabel Marant’s breezy dresses. Twenty-five years later, the boutique is still in its original spot. It still stocks seasonal pieces by Isabel Marant, alongside elegant cotton shirts by Spain’s Masscob, woven Dragon Diffusion bags and tailored trousers by Los Angeles-based Jesse Kamm.
The business’s focus is firmly on the boutique. It’s why the duo recently joined forces with a local architect to refresh its interiors. “We take it personally,” adds Vanda. “It’s almost like opening the door to our house.” The duo have also begun developing an in-house line of seasonless staples – cashmere jumpers, ruffled shirts, waterproof trench coats – following research trips to India, Italy and Scotland. “We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel,” says Val. “We want products that don’t need to change every season. It’s a project that we want to keep small, luxurious and authentic.”
aimelondon.com
11.
Hitting the big time
In the bag
Autumn/winter is the season of the super-sized tote. Designers are leaving minaudières and compact crossbody bags behind and replacing them with extra-large totes that can double as elegant weekender bags. Prada has oversized, vintage-inspired bowling bags on offer, while Celine’s new artistic director, Michael Rider, has relaunched the label’s roomy Phantom bags. Meanwhile, Véronique Nichanian, the artistic director of men’s fashion at Hermès, generated enthusiasm for her large Birkin bags on her autumn/winter 2025 runway. “People joke that, despite my height, I’m designing such big bags,” she says.
12.
Sturlini, Italy
Tuscan touch
“I’m proud to be Tuscan,” says Alessio Sturlini, Florentine shoe brand Sturlini’s CEO. “We manufacture everything in Tuscany so that we can have control over every step.” Sturlini’s approach to dyeing leather consists of immersing shoes in tanning drums, using natural dyes and pigments. The result is a softer, more comfortable shoe that would befit a Florentine dandy.
sturlini.com
13.
Colin Meredith, Canada
Best performance
Having grown up on Vancouver Island and studied visual arts and technical apparel design in Montréal, Colin Meredith’s eponymous brand naturally takes its cues from the Canadian outdoors. “I also take inspiration from vintage sportswear and then combine it with newer technical fabrics,” he says. Since the brand launched in 2023, Meredith’s output has focused on base layers, insulated vests and sturdy shell jackets – ideal for cold-weather adventures.
colinmeredith.com
14.
Chopard, Switzerland
Stirling idea
A passionate car enthusiast, Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has forged a longstanding partnership between the Swiss watchmaker and the 1000 Miglia, the iconic Italian motor race first held in 1927. The eponymous collection of timepieces has become a cornerstone of Chopard’s expanding offering of men’s watches. Pictured here is a stainless-steel model with a brown calfskin strap, created in tribute to Stirling Moss, who set a record in the 1955 Mille Miglia by winning the race at an average speed of 158km/h – a feat that remains unmatched.
chopard.com
15.
Celine, France
Best debut
Celine’s new artistic director, Michael Rider, presented his debut collection in July at the brand’s HQ, Vivienne. It was a masterclass of rebranding, a vision of modern-day dressing marrying past and present, reality and fantasy. “Celine stands for quality, timelessness and style – ideals that are difficult to grasp,” he says.
celine.com
16.
Unlikely, Japan
New from Japan
Shinsuke Nakada joined Japanese fashion giant Beams straight from college: he started on the shop floor and worked his way up to creative director over a period of 22 years. “After years of collaborating with different companies and manufacturers, I felt a growing urge to challenge myself [and create] something that was truly my own,” he says. Nakada took the leap in 2023, starting menswear brand Unlikely, which he envisions as a blend of US and Japanese styles, old-school workwear and menswear staples, all woven into something fresh. Some of its most popular garments include reversible outerwear, patched sweatshirts and sweaters inspired by natural landscapes. Its autumn/winter offering is looking particularly sharp, with a corduroy-cuffed, washed-canvas hunter jacket and twill trousers in faded navy. Unlikely is stocked in Japanese shops including Beams Plus and, with growing interest from overseas, it is officially going international this autumn.
17.
Mohawk General Store, USA
Best curation
Bo and Kevin Carney’s Mohawk General Store in Los Angeles’ Silver Lake neighbourhood stocks seasonal ready-to-wear clothing, jewellery, home goods, books, apothecary items and its in-house menswear line, Smock. What these items have in common is that they evoke a sense of Californian cool, be it flax-coloured linen shirts or olive oil from the Big Sur.
This is especially true of Smock, whose breezy trousers, Velcro back cap and canvas jackets look as though they were made for sauntering underneath palm trees. Mohawk has an event space nearby and also partners with brands to host gatherings at its stores – a strategy that serves as a good reminder that fashion is often at its best when it’s rooted in a sense of place.
mohawkgeneralstore.com
18.
James Purdey & Sons, UK
Heritage revival
UK brand James Purdey & Sons is starting a new chapter in its 200-year history. Now owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, it has tapped London-based designer Giles Deacon as its new creative director. His first full collection makes its debut in autumn 2025 and introduces the Tom Purdey House Tweed, inspired by the family’s chief salesman, who carried the Purdey name across the UK and US from the 1920s to the 1950s. The tweed uses 21 yarns and 16 twists to capture the colours of the Highlands. “We want to make timeless, elegant countrywear – clothes that you’ll wear for life,” says Deacon.
purdey.com
19.
Grey’s, USA
New talent
Los Angeles-born designer Emily Grey had spent a decade in London, studying fashion and planning the launch of her brand, Grey’s. But last February, New York came calling. From her Manhattan studio, she tells Monocle how being in England drew her attention to the singularity of US fashion. “It’s a little bit more real, designed for everyday life, without compromising on quality.”
Grey imagines her customers wearing her designs to attend soirées but also to lounge around at home. Her shapes are voluminous and comforting: a knitted wool sack coat has a drawstring hem that can be pulled into a bubble shape or left to fall naturally, while a coat is cinched by internal ties. “It’s all about ease,” she says. “Those details make [every piece] more functional and less precious.”
greys.studio
20.
Best in scents
Autumnal fragrances
This season we’re adopting perfumes that offer complexity and freshness in equal measure. London-based perfumer Vyrao’s Verdant does exactly that, with notes of moss, Italian bergamot, frankincense and cyclamen that vibrate in unison. Meanwhile, New York- and Paris-based brand Régime des Fleurs’s Green Vanille eschews the cloying sweetness typically associated with vanilla perfumes by combining it with notes of coriander, sandalwood and vetiver – a compelling reinterpretation that might change your mind about what a vanilla scent can be. Bottega Veneta is expanding its range of perfumes with Mezzanotte, a collection of three new fragrances presented on marble bases. Our pick is Hinoki, a scent that harmoniously blends Japanese hinoki, fir and patchouli. Finally, US perfume house Maison d’Etto’s Noisette leaves lingering notes of French lavender, magnolia and orris wrapped in a grounding mix of musk and amber leaves.
21.
The Decorum, Thailand
Sharpest fit
Bangkok-based menswear retailer The Decorum has been growing its label. The third season of the Decorum Continuum Collection continues a collaboration with Yasuto Kamoshita, co-founder of Japan’s United Arrows, who has led all three collaborations. “The collection takes its name from the way that we like to evolve,” says Sirapol Ridhiprasart, co-founder of The Decorum. “Our styles evolve season by season but they stay true to their roots.” Highlights from the new autumn collection include a stripped-back Harrington jacket and corduroy suits in forest green. “Fabrics and textures take centre stage,” says Ridhiprasart.
thedecorumbkk.com
22.
K-Way & Soeur, France
Collaboration to know
In this collaboration between French brands K-Way and Soeur, the former’s expertise in outerwear meets the latter’s Parisian flair. K-Way’s expansion plans have been turbo-charged by investment from private-equity firm Permira. “We believe that we sell products that are high quality and at a reasonable price,” says co-CEO Lorenzo Boglione. “And we have a strong narrative to tell.”
k-way.com; soeur.fr
23.
Begg x Co, UK
New beginnings
Buenos Aires-born and Paris-based designer Vanessa Seward is taking the reins as creative director of Scottish cashmere brand Begg x Co. As a preview, Seward – who has worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Tom Ford at Yves Saint Laurent – launched a capsule collection. It features striped cardigans, elegant polo sweatshirts, a cape and marle jumpers, all made from cashmere.
beggxco.com
Begg x Co represents a slice of Scottish manufacturing history. What does it mean to become the new custodian of the brand?
I have always admired Scottish culture and heritage from afar. So I can dare to go further in [highlighting] this Scottish identity: when you’re approaching it from the outside, you can bring freshness. As creative director, I want to help make Begg x Co the go-to Scottish cashmere brand.
Where did you turn to for inspiration when creating your first capsule collection?
I started with the idea of what my ideal cashmere wardrobe would look like. I designed staples for men and women, with a Scottish touch that comes through in the knits, particularly in the stitching. And the colours are to die for. We created a bespoke marle inspired by the moors.
What’s your philosophy around clothing?
Clothes have to enhance a personality. They need to be flattering and give you confidence. I never design something that can’t be worn – that’s absurd. I believe in clothes, rather than fashion.
24.
Morrow, Australia
Sydney’s finest
After working for Sydney-based brands Jac + Jack and P Johnson, Ryan Morrow launched his own label in May. “I spent my weekends escaping from the city to the country to go camping and couldn’t find clothes that were able to seamlessly transition between the two,” says Morrow. “I realised that I needed to build this brand myself.” Colour palettes are usually neutral, allowing the construction of the garments to take centre stage. “Silhouette makes the difference between something looking sharp or falling completely flat,” he adds.
morrowaustralia.com
25.
Kilentar, Nigeria
Rethinking craft
Up-and-coming designer Michelle Adepoju had no intention of working in fashion – let alone launching her own brand. After a year spent travelling around West Africa, from Senegal to Burkina Faso and Nigeria, she was captivated by the textiles that she discovered in markets and started asking more about how they were made. In Burkina Faso, for instance, she learnt about faso dan fani, which translates to “woven cloth of the homeland” and is usually hand-woven on looms, while in Nigeria, she began building relationships with artisans weaving the region’s traditional aso-oke fabric. “I fell in love with the ways in which these fabrics are made and knew that I could use them to create styles that are more wearable for the women of today,” says Adepoju, who began to learn Mossi (Burkina Faso’s most widely spoken language) to convince local artisans to work with her. “It was through that sense of curiosity and experiencing the beauty of craftsmanship that I got inspired to start a fashion brand.”
Kilentar – which translates to “What are you selling?” in Yoruba and is often heard in the markets of Nigeria) now offers one-of-a-kind garments that are hand-woven, hand-dyed and hand-finished, from tweed suiting to patchwork column dresses for the evening. “We only make two collections per year because of how time-consuming the process is,” adds Adepoju, pictured here wearing her brand’s clothes. “We want to respect the process and educate our audience about how each garment is made.” This involves holding workshops at which people can try their hand at weaving and meet artisans. “Craft is about more than just techniques,” says Adepoju. “It’s a language that unites communities.”
kilentar.com
Stylist: Kyoko Tamoto
Hair: Hiroki Kojima
Make-up: Irina Cajvaneanu
Models: Amalie G, Antonio Pinto