Paris-based designer Thibo Denis knows his way around a well-constructed shoe. From shaping the footwear vision for both haute couture and ready-to-wear collections at Christian Dior (under former menswear creative director Kim Jones) to his current role designing shoes and accessories for Louis Vuitton menswear, Denis is an instrumental figure in the world of fashion. He is now stepping into the spotlight to debut a collection under his own name as part of a partnership with Birkenstock. 

The German footwear giant has tapped Denis as the inaugural guest designer for Ensemble 1774, a new initiative inviting fashion talent to collaborate with the brand’s creative studio. The release includes three models, each available in bold colourways and finished with Birkenstock’s signature bone-pattern outsole. Here, Denis tells Monocle about his design inspirations, how he interpreted Birkenstock’s heritage and, crucially, what trousers he would pair with each of the shoe styles.

Could you walk us through your design process for this project, from concept to final silhouette?
I’m a longtime fan of Birkenstock, so this project carries a lot of personal significance. The starting point was the brand’s core elements: the cork midsole, the iconic bone pattern and of course, the black outsole. I wanted to amplify these signature details and bring them to the forefront. As a designer, I always think about the silhouette: not just of the shoe itself but also the story and visual language that led to it. For this collection, I drew inspiration from a group of rock climbers known for their bold ascents in Yosemite during the 1970s. That spirit of freedom reminds me of Birkenstock’s DNA. I really like the idea of ‘climbing’ the city.

What was the challenge in balancing trainer-style silhouettes with Birkenstock’s orthopaedic heritage?
Everything comes down to the first impression that a shoe makes. I wanted people to recognise that they are Birkenstocks but with lines that feel more dynamic. When you think of a classic Boston, the profile is quite square. So I worked with the team to soften and round out the lines to create the feeling of movement, as if the shoe is made for walking faster.

How do you see these shoes fitting into someone’s everyday wardrobe?
They are versatile pieces. This is especially true for the mule, which I imagine carrying someone through the day. It’s all about the socks that they’re paired with – think thick wool for daytime and a finer gauge for the evening. I even like the idea of wearing it with a smoking jacket. Each silhouette was designed with a particular style of trousers in mind. The mule works well with chinos, the one-strap trainer can be styled nicely with vintage jeans and the chunky double-strap model looks great with shorts.