Skip to main content
Currently being edited in London

Click here to discover more from Monocle

Pullman Hotels & Resorts

The Monocle Weekend Edition – Sunday 25 May 2025

Monocle

Slice of life

This week we’re taking a tour of Charleston’s standout hospitality addresses and getting in line for the pizza that has Parisians in a frenzy. Plus: we bed down in a former sailors’ hangout in Tasmania and pop into the new design shop in Alvar Aalto’s refreshed Finlandia Hall. Getting us off to a swift start is our editorial director, Tyler Brûlé.


The Faster Lane

Portugal’s talents are many – its time in the spotlight overdue 

By Tyler Brûlé
<em>By Tyler Brûlé</em>

Bom dia from Zürich, where the sun is shining, the white port is flowing and our HQ on Dufourstrasse is bustling with visitors from across town, Switzerland and around the world. Off the back of our Portuguese market in London, some of the country’s most interesting craftspeople and brands have set up their stalls to not only dispense olive oil, woven rugs, ceramics, jewellery and garments but also to tell the contemporary story of “Made in Portugal”.

To kick things off on Friday eve we were joined by Portugal’s ambassadors to Switzerland and the UN mission in Geneva, along with the Swiss director for Visit Portugal. After a brief discussion about the Iberian nation’s role in the world, its manufacturing dynamism and a few travel tips, the conversation shifted, as it often does, to why a country that makes everything from cars to ships and drones to sweatshirts has not yet managed to produce a global retail powerhouse or fashion brand? How could it be that a country that manufactures so many implements for the Swiss-watch industry (not to mention the provision of manpower to staff factories up and down the Jura) has not managed to produce its own homegrown watch brand? Unsurprisingly, the answers were varied. So too the solutions for getting Portuguese brands on more shelves and spinning in showrooms across the globe. 

“We’re makers, not marketers,” suggested a Portuguese Monocle subscriber based in Zürich. “That’s the problem. We’re solid Catholics but we never inherited any of the brand flair of the Vatican.” After a few more glasses of white from the Algarve I overheard a small group of Portuguese from Geneva suggesting that bureaucracy and taxes stifle entrepreneurship, while a diplomat said that there’s too much focus on the making and not enough on the power and margins that come with intellectual property.

If you pick up the June issue of Monocle, you’ll encounter a new Portuguese player who just might be on the runway (literally) to becoming a global brand in the defence-and-security space. While Tekever didn’t take a stand at our market (wouldn’t have been a bad idea as we had enough military types in attendance), they are fast making a name as the drone supplier of choice to forces around the world – while proving that ingenuity mixed with some PR clout can not only raise a brand’s profile but also create a beacon to inspire other upstarts across Portugal. Should you not be in the market for high-altitude surveillance over the Atlantic, then you might want to check out a few of the following brands for your larder, beach tote, wardrobe or dining table. There’ll be much more from Portugal over the coming weeks and months as new issues land on newsstands, stories hit screens and interviews go out on Monocle Radio. Obrigado.

Badi Market in full swing (on left) and menswear label La Paz

Colourful carpets (on left) and a fine Portuguese tipple

Fundamento olive oil (on left) and everyday essentials from Isto


Eating out: Oobatz, Paris

Pizza de résistance

Dan Pearson moved to Paris from the US to study international relations but learned that there were other ways to win hearts and minds (writes Adrian Moore). The chef first made mouths water with a pizza pop-up at the Michelin-starred Le Rigmarole. Today he’s back with Oobatz in the 11th arrondissement.

The line-up features six pizzas, each made with market-fresh ingredients before being baked for 90 seconds in a Swedish pizza oven at 480C. Monocle’s favourite has a marinara base with pork and veal polpette and creamy caciocavallo. Ring ahead as tables are tough to snag.
oobatz.fr

For more hospitality roundups and top tables, pick up a copy of Monocle’s June issue on newsstands now.


 

Pullman Hotels & Resorts  MONOCLE

Traversing the unexpected path with David Hieatt

In a new episode of Pullman Voices, Monocle Radio’s Tom Edwards meets David Hieatt, founder of Hiut Denim Co and The Do Lectures. From getting kicked out of college to building cult brands, Hieatt shares how a love of learning – and lessons from unlikely places – have shaped his journey. Tune in for a story of resilience, reinvention and doing things differently.

This episode is also available on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.


SUNDAY ROAST: Kate Towill

Southern charm

Charleston-based Kate Towill is the creative director of design studio Basic Projects, which focuses on hospitality, including Basic Kitchen and The Post House Inn. Here, Towill shares where she finds her cheese fix and gives us a tour of the southern city’s best hangouts.

Where do we find you this weekend? 
At home in Charleston with my family. I’m always inspired by this city’s rich history and the coastal beauty that surrounds it. It also has some of the best independent restaurants and bars – right now I’m loving Chubby Fish and Babas on Cannon for cocktails. 

Ideal start to a Sunday? Gentle start or a jolt?
A gentle start with coffee and pancakes, followed by a walk to the harbour with the kids. I love walking along Church Street down to The Battery, soaking up the historical architecture and stopping for a coffee at Harken Cafe. 

What’s for breakfast? 
On a school morning: toast, yogurt, fruit and Cheerios. On weekends: pancakes or eggs and bacon.

Lunch in or out? 
Usually in but on Saturdays I love grabbing a sandwich from Goat Sheep Cow, Charleston’s best fromagerie. 

A Sunday soundtrack?  
Ella Fitzgerald or, more recently, The Greatest Showman soundtrack. The kids love it and honestly the songs are amazing.

What’s on the menu?  
For our Sunday early supper, it’s usually either a cosy pasta recipe or a classic roast chicken with potatoes, carrots and green beans. 

Sunday evening routine? 
My husband and my son play backgammon while my daughter and I prep for dinner and dance in the kitchen.


Recipe: Aya Nishimura

Coronation egg sando

Monocle’s Japanese recipe writer proposes a flavoursome twist on the British egg-mayo sandwich. Add curry powder, mango chutney and fresh coriander for a flavourful Japanese-style sando that packs a punch.

Serves 2

Ingredients

For the egg salad
3 medium-sized eggs
30g raisins, soaked in warm water
30g almonds, roughly chopped
3 tbsps Japanese mayonnaise
2 tsps mild curry powder
1½ tbsps mango chutney
1 stick celery, diced (1cm pieces)
10g fresh coriander, chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste

For the sandwich
4 slices of white bread (ideally Japanese shokupan)
4 tbsps unsalted butter, softened

Method

1
Place the eggs in a pot of boiling water and simmer for 8 minutes. Drain and cool them immediately in cold water.

2
While the eggs cool, soak the raisins in warm water until softened. Toast the chopped almonds in a dry pan until golden brown.

3
Peel and dice the eggs into 1cm pieces. In a bowl, combine the eggs, Japanese mayonnaise, curry powder, mango chutney, celery, coriander, raisins and toasted almonds. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4
Lightly toast and butter the bread. Spoon half of the egg salad onto one slice of bread per sandwich. Top with the remaining slices, press gently, remove crusts and cut in half to serve.


 

Sponsored by Pullman Hotels & Resorts


Weekend plans? The Ship Inn, Tasmania

Gone fishing

In the remote fishing town of Stanley on Tasmania’s northwest coast, three hours’ drive from the city of Launceston, the local delicacies are crayfish and abalone (writes Carli Ratcliff).

When The Shamrock Inn opened in 1849 it was a popular drinking haunt for sailors and whalers, at one time it even served as the morgue and later as a roller-skating rink. Now it’s The Ship Inn, a nine-key hotel that adds a touch of luxury to a typically charming and laid-back Tasmanian town.

In 2018 Kerry and Alastair Houston bought the historic address, moved from Hobart and transformed it with the help of Melbourne-based designers Belle Hemming and Lynda Gardener. Alastair is a landscape gardener and stone mason; Kerry looks after the guests. A guest lounge and billiard room lead onto beautiful gardens and easy access to The Nut, an ancient volcanic headland that’s perfect for a casual hike. 
shipinnstanley.com.au


top of the shops: Finlandia Hall, Helsinki

Living museum

Though a central part of Helsinki’s cityscape, Alvar Aalto’s 1971 Finlandia Hall always felt remote to the city’s residents – until now (writes Petri Burtsoff). Finnish design studio Fyra has opened up the conference centre to the public with a new bistro, café and boutique featuring an intriguing selection of Aalto pieces, as well as items from contemporary local designers.

“When you design for a protected building – and an Aalto one, no less – you’re a custodian of heritage,” says Eva-Marie Eriksson, Fyra’s co-founder. “But this building isn’t a museum. Ensuring that it’s used is the best way of honouring Aalto’s legacy.”
fyra.fi; finlandiatalo.fi

For more architectural insights, pick up a copy of Monocle’s design special, on newsstands now. Or subscribe today and support our independent journalism. Have a super Sunday.


The Monocle Weekend Edition – Sunday 18 May 2025

Monocle

Seeds of success

This week we’re dining late at an Anglo-Indian establishment in Sydney, then we’re dishing up Japanese savoury pancakes with a gardening entrepreneur and bedding down in a reimagined Mexican bolthole that’s immersed in nature. Plus: a Basque cheesecake with a twist and the Swiss micro brewery that’s shaking things up. Taking the lead from the off is our editorial director, Tyler Brûlé.


The Faster Lane

I went looking for the weekend papers but found a gap in the market instead 

By Tyler Brûlé
<em>By Tyler Brûlé</em>

Stockholm 
It’s Sunday morning and we’re heading out for a stride around the city. The route is generally the same every visit and takes in sturdy embassies, funkis-style apartment buildings, a local shopping mall for a coffee and a spin around the grocery store, a few large parks and then more fine residences and diplomatic compounds. 

Before heading out I ask the gentleman running reception if the weekend papers have arrived and he says that The New York Times in print is a thing of the past in Sweden and that he doesn’t know when the FT Weekend will show up. “It should have been here by now but you never know these days,” he says with a frown. “Everyone wants a newspaper on the weekend and we’d like some alternatives but there aren’t any.” We exchange a few more words on the topic and as I head for the door he says: “Maybe time for you to launch one, Tyler.” 

The idea occupies my thoughts for the rest of the walk, the weekend and the past week. It’s not the first time that I’ve considered the idea but 18 months ago, with other projects on the go, I took it off the back burner, put it in an airtight container and placed it at the rear of the fridge. Now I feel that it needs to thaw out and get some air. Would you buy an English-language paper or are you happy with your current offer? Do you even need paper with so much available on screen? Does it need to be delivered or would you make the trip to the kiosk to secure a copy? On my way back to the hotel I pass the newsstand on Karlaplan plaza and there’s a healthy stack of the FT Weekend piled up at the cashier. I grab two copies (one for Mom too) and head back to the hotel. I’m happy to tuck it into my tote for the trip to Bahrain but something is missing.
 
Dubai International Airport 
It’s just after midnight on Monday morning and I’m waiting for my connection to Bahrain. The Emirates First Class lounge is sprawling and not a thing of beauty. It’s too bright for the hour, it’s understaffed and there are few places to properly recline. One thing the carrier does well is support its local printers by offering an array of editions from all corners of the world – but there’s something missing here, too. What is the English-language news outlet for the Gulf in print and digi that’s best in business, culture, style and more? Is it Abu Dhabi’s The National? Supposedly things are happening at the Khaleej Times but I can’t find a copy. Is this another media opportunity?
 
Bahrain 
What a gentle landing – in more ways than one. The airport is human scale and I’m off the plane, through customs and into the car in about five minutes. It’s around 03.00 and the football pitches are full of young men kicking balls around but the route to the hotel is reasonably quiet. I’m greeted by Mohammed, a well-groomed Bahraini, who shows me up to the room and tells me that all is prepped for what promises to be a busy day ahead. I snatch about five hours of sleep, meet my colleagues Davy and Mikey and off we go. Bahrain is not Qatar or the UAE or Oman – it’s tiny, easy to manage and by midday I’m starting to like it. 

Down some streets I feel like I might be in Beirut’s Hamra and then there are flashes of glitz and the Gulf as we know it. The working day ends with a few hours at the barber and then shifts to dinner at the just-opened Brasero Atlántico and rolls onto an impromptu house party at a wonderful 1980s villa in Yateem Gardens complete with 02.00 shawarma delivery. 

Bahrain is generous, welcoming, dense in parts and wide open in others, scruffy in some corners while perfectly polished elsewhere. I like it, I want to see more, meet more Bahrainis and explore more modernist compounds – but the flight to Dubai, then on to Paris, is boarding. More soon.


Eating out: Derrel’s, Sydney

Curry and chips off the old block 

Grandpa Derrel was the chief cook in chef Brendan King’s family (writes Carli Ratcliff). Hence why the sign at the door of King’s Anglo-Indian diner in Sydney’s Camperdown reads: “Derrel’s, Nana never cooked.” Known with fondness by the residents of this inner-western suburb, Derrel’s is busy from its 17.00 opening time – often with a queue out the door – and serves until midnight (on Fridays and Saturdays). For staff from the nearby hospital and the local University of Sydney students, it’s a bastion of hope in a city that rarely has kitchens open past 21.00.

Make sure you don’t miss the samosa chaat: smashed samosas on a spicy chickpea curry, minty yoghurt, coriander, chilli and a tamarind chutney. Follow it with a half tandoori chicken plate with a side of chips (a bowl of butter chicken gravy to dip them in can be added to your order) and a bright tomato and cucumber salad laced with cumin. Or why not try a simple tray of butter chicken with roti and rice, washed down with a mango lassi? And it’s not just the food that’s refreshing at Derrel’s – the service is lively and fresh too.
89 Parramatta Rd, Camperdown


 

PULLMAN HOTELS & RESORTS  MONOCLE

How to be present with Dumi Oburota

In the latest episode of Pullman Voices, Monocle Radio’s Tom Edwards sits down with serial entrepreneur Dumi Oburota. From guiding British rapper Tinie Tempah’s rise to launching drinks brand Severan, Oburota shares the lessons that he has learned along the way, as well as why being truly present might just be the secret to lasting success.

This episode is also available on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.


SUNDAY ROAST: Jake Hobson

Garden variety

Landscaper and entrepreneur Jake Hobson is the founder and CEO of Niwaki, which offers Japanese gardening tools on London’s Chiltern Street. Here he talks to The Monocle Minute Weekend Edition about homemade okonomiyaki, his reggae soundtrack and the Japanese ingredient that jumpstarts his day.

Where do we find you this weekend?
At home in Shaftesbury with my wife Keiko and our 16-year-old son. We’re gearing up for our busy season, which kicks off with the Chelsea Flower Show.

What’s for breakfast?
Always croissants on a Sunday. Whenever I visit Japan, I bring back lots of anko (sweet red-bean paste), so we’ve been having that on our croissants recently. It’s good on toast too.

Lunch in or out?
In. Somehow okonomiyaki has ended up as our standard Sunday lunch, cooked right on the table. 

A Sunday soundtrack?
One of my new year’s resolutions was to listen to more reggae and I’ve come across a Beatles tribute album called Hemp! (a play on “Help!”), which is great fun and gets lots of airtime. Our son plays the piano and if we’re lucky he’ll launch into one of his jazz improvs at some point in the day, which makes me as happy as anything.

Sunday culture must?
Gardening – the highest form of culture.

News or not?
Not really but I have The Times Magazine and Financial Times on my phone, mostly for the “Life & Arts” section

Sunday evening routine?
Very predictable: an hour or so in my office to get a head start on the week. I try to finish bottles of wine rather than open new ones, and wind down with TV.

Do you lay out an outfit for Monday?
No. Monday is usually a day in the office at Niwaki HQ in Semley, and I pretty much always wear the same thing.


Recipe: Aya Nishimura

Miso cheesecake

Monocle’s Japanese recipe writer puts an umami twist on the classic burnt Basque cheesecake, originally from San Sebastián.

Serves 8

Equipment
20cm (8-inch) loose-bottomed springform tin 

Ingredients
560g cream cheese
45g white miso 
175g granulated sugar
4 large eggs
2 tbsps plain flour
450ml double cream 
Zest of 1 organic lemon

Method
1
Remove the cream cheese from the fridge and allow it to reach room temperature.

2
Preheat your oven to 200C.

3
To prepare the tin, cut a large sheet of baking paper to cover the base and sides. Crumple the paper, dampen it with water, then squeeze out the excess. Line the cake tin with the damp paper, allowing it to come up over the edges.

4 
In a large bowl, combine the cream cheese, miso and sugar. Beat with an electric whisk until smooth and lump-free.

5 
Switch to a hand whisk. Beat the eggs in a separate bowl, then gradually whisk them into the cream cheese mixture until well incorporated. Sift in the flour and whisk to combine.

6 
Gently pour in the double cream and mix with the whisk until just incorporated, not whipped. If the mixture still has lumps, strain it through a sieve for a smooth texture.

7 
Add the lemon zest and mix briefly. Pour the batter into the prepared tin. Tap the tin on the counter to release any air bubbles

8 
As the cheesecake will puff up significantly, place the tin on the lower shelf of the oven. Bake for 35 minutes.

9 
Remove from the oven. It will be very wobbly in the centre but will deflate and set as it cools. Leave it to set for a couple of hours. Once cooled, let it sit in the fridge overnight before serving.


 

Sponsored by PULLMAN HOTELS & RESORTS


Weekend plans? Boca de Agua, Yucatán Peninsula

Treehouse retreat

Sitting beside the Laguna de los Siete Colores on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula is Boca de Agua (writes Sarah Rowland). Owner Rodrigo Juárez and architect Frida Escobedo used salvaged building materials to create the panelling, furniture and structure.

“We sought to reinterpret traditional architecture, such as stilts that lift the buildings off the ground to enable vegetation to grow underneath and wildlife to move freely,” says Escobedo. The site is split into three generous treehouses and the on-site restaurant, Flora. Everything here, from the breakfast to the bedding, is Mexican-made. “We draw inspiration from the surroundings, to allow the space to speak for itself.”
bocadeagua.com

Monocle’s May issue is packed with an enviable selection of beachside boltholes. Pick up a copy today.


Bottoms up: Chien Bleu brewery

Gut reaction 

When Julien Manetti realised the gut benefits of natural fermentation, he decided to set up a micro brewery in Geneva in 2016 (writes Claudia Jacob). A medical student at the time, Manetti was keen to introduce homemade yeasts and barrel-ageing techniques to shake up the strait-laced Swiss beer market.

Brewed in barrels in premises adjacent to the Rhône, the result is a smart selection of craft beers blended with notes of apple, pear, orange and peaches. Manetti’s most recent concoction is a highly quaffable cider that’s blended with elderflowers, a cherry wine and a muscat. Easy does it.

Thirsty for more? Subscribe today and support our independent journalism. Have a super Sunday.


The Monocle Weekend Edition – Sunday 11 May 2025

Monocle

Setting the scene 

This week we find convivial Basque fare at a Belgian brasserie, eat sour-and-spicy noodles in Hong Kong with Taiwanese bag designer An Chieh Chiang and bed down in a charming converted farmstead in the Algarve. There’s also a recipe that puts a rice-paper twist on the Japanese savoury pancake and a new book that serves up some of the world’s most beautiful tennis courts. Taking the serve is our editorial director, Tyler Brûlé.


The Faster Lane

Want to build a European powerhouse? Think more like Zara than Zuckerberg 

By Tyler Brûlé
<em>By Tyler Brûlé</em>

Is it better to be late to the party or stay in your comfy, cosy place? On a flight to Stockholm this week, I read an interview with restaurateur Keith McNally that was pegged to his just released memoir, I Regret Almost Everything. I’ve spent many an evening at Odeon (when it was under his watch) and plenty of meandering lunches and lingering dinners at his buzzy Balthazar, and while I don’t gravitate to the biographies corner at Daunt Books, there’s something about McNally’s knack for running a hospitality operation that makes me want to dive in. I was intrigued to read about how, after a stroke that has impaired his voice and forced him to shift from being right-handed to left-handed (fun fact: I went in the other direction), he found that Instagram gave him a whole new voice. As Insta-avoidance is a running theme in both my life and the life of Monocle, I want to read about how he’s done it. That said, I won’t be jumping onto Meta channels any time soon. It’s more fun tapping this out for a Sunday morning and messaging on the Swiss-made, ultra-exclusive Threema. Number of chat friends? Two.

Speaking of Meta, it’s been hilarious to watch all of these “boycott Made in America” Facebook groups spring up in well-meaning nations like Denmark and the Netherlands. Where do these people think Meta comes from? Do they think it might be European? Mark Zuckerberg a German living in a large villa on Hamburg’s Alster? Come on people, Guten Morgen! For starters, real “Made in the USA” products should be heartily supported. Talk to any company that still makes shoes in the US and you will hear a story of pain and suffering as it’s difficult to find apprentices – the concept is foreign in the US and the customer doesn’t place a premium on a product made within the 50 states. In the meantime, Europe should work harder at building its own digital powerhouses. Why don’t all Monocle readers set up a mass chat on Threema?

Fear not, Europe does have a few powerhouses in its arsenal and, in case you missed it, Zara just turned 50. While I’ve never purchased anything from the Spanish retailer, I am a big fan of Zara Home (they need to make more products in Europe though) and its upmarket cousin Massimo Dutti. While many cite logistics and supply-chain mastery as being crucial to the company’s success, one particular attribute struck me as being even more integral to its dazzling growth while on a recent tour around its exceptional HQ outside A Coruña – it’s a monoculture. Sit in meetings, wander the halls and chat to staffers working in various parts of the business and you soon realise that the company is not so much Spanish as Galician. Instead of meeting talented people drawn from Madrid or Valencia, many are from Pontevedra, Vigo and Ferrol. “Much of our success comes down to the fact that we’re all from the same place, so people understand the codes and there’s no such thing as ‘lost in translation,’” explained someone from the housewares business. It’s an interesting case study in the power of efficiency driven by shared cultural capital.

And before I leave you to connect with my next flight (destination Manama), a small thanks to the maître de cabine in charge of my Swiss flight up to Stockholm Arlanda. Despite a two-hour delay and multiple gate changes, here was a woman (initials SK), who turned everything around with humour, warmth and a general sense of levity – useful at 38,000 feet above the Baltic. She was also a stunning example of why you need people in charge who have life experience and the confidence to interact with young and old. 

Happy Sunday dear reader. 


Eating out: Taberna Bask, Ghent

Basque in glory 

In a fast-evolving corner of Ghent’s green belt, Belgian restaurateurs Sam D’Huyvetter and Nina De Cuyper have channelled the spirit of San Sebastián’s pintxos bars into Taberna Bask (writes Femke Vandevelde).

The couple serve homemade morcilla, chorizo and coppa from family-owned pigs, fresh sourdough and imaginative creations including guinea-fowl croquetas and red mullet with chipirón squid.

Furnished with vintage finds, this corner spot strikes a balance between urban cool and Belgian conviviality, while soft ochre walls and warm lighting evoke a Spanish late afternoon.
tabernabask.be

For more hospitality roundups and top tables, pick up a copy of Monocle’s May issue on newsstands now.


 

PULLMAN HOTELS & RESORTS  MONOCLE

The power of resilience with Pallavi Dean

In the first episode of Pullman Voices, Monocle Radio’s Tom Edwards meets architect Pallavi Dean in Dubai. As founder of design studio Roar, Dean shares insights about navigating change, building resilience and embracing new beginnings. Tune in for a thoughtful conversation on how shifting perspectives can spark growth, wherever you are in the world.

This episode is also available on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.


SUNDAY ROAST: An Chieh Chiang

Spicing it up

An Chieh Chiang is the CEO of Hong Kong-based travelling essentials brand Lojel, which manufactures carry-ons, cross-body bags and phone straps for when you’re on the move (writes Valentina Venelli). Here, Chiang tells The Monocle Minute Weekend Edition about Hong Kong’s Nam Kee noodles and Taiwanese rock.

Ideal start to a Sunday? Gentle or a jolt?
Anything that doesn’t activate my brain. I usually start with 30 minutes of high-intensity interval training, then a bit of reading.

What’s for breakfast?
A fast-food breakfast is our family ritual on Sunday mornings.

Lunch in or out?
When I first moved from Japan to Hong Kong just over 10 years ago, I tried sour-and-spicy noodles from Nam Kee Noodle [restaurant chain]. It’s now one of my favourite lunch dishes.

A Sunday culture must?
Both the M+ and Hong Kong Palace Museum are great to visit on the weekend. Conveniently, they’re right next to each other in the West Kowloon Cultural District.

News or no news?
Nowadays you don’t need to look for news. It will come to you. 

What’s on the menu?
Hotpot or Japanese curry rice.

A Sunday soundtrack?
“Ghost in the Machine” by SZA or “Wayfarer” by No Party for Cao Dong.

Do you lay out an outfit for Monday?
Everything matches, so I don’t need to put much thought into it.


Recipe: Aya Nishimura

Rice-paper ‘okonomiyaki’

Monocle’s Japanese recipe writer, Aya Nishimura, has created an alternative to the much-loved Japanese savoury pancake using rice paper rather than flour. This traditional form of Japanese street food can be customised with a creative supply of toppings. We’ve recommended some options to get you started.

Makes 1 pancake

Ingredients
150g cabbage, finely shredded 
10g pickled ginger, finely shredded 
100g unsmoked bacon, sliced into 2cm strips
½ tsp vegetable oil
2 rice papers (22cm in diameter)
1 large egg, lightly beaten

Suggested toppings
Okonomiyaki sauce 
Mayonnaise 
1 spring onion, thinly sliced, kept in cold water and patted dry with a kitchen towel 
Katsuobushi flakes (dried tuna flakes) 
Shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven-spice mixture)

Method
1.
Finely shred the cabbage and pickled ginger and combine in a bowl. Thinly slice the spring onion and soak in cold water to keep crisp. Slice the bacon into 2cm pieces.

2.
Before turning on the heat, drizzle half a teaspoon of oil into a non-stick pan. Place one layer of rice paper in the pan. Pour half of the beaten egg and spread lightly. Layer the cabbage and ginger mixture on top. Place the bacon over the cabbage, then drizzle the remaining egg on top. Place the second rice paper over it and press gently.

3.
Cook at a medium-high heat (keep pressing the rice paper if the top piece begins to peel off). When it sizzles, reduce the heat to medium, cover with a lid and cook for 3 minutes.

4.
Flip the okonomiyaki using a wide spatula. Press gently, cover and cook for 3 minutes.

5.
Transfer the okonomiyaki to a plate. Use scissors to cut into six wedges. Drizzle with the okonomiyaki sauce and mayonnaise. Top with spring onion, katsuobushi flakes and shichimi togarashi


Sponsored by PULLMAN HOTELS & RESORTS


Weekend plans? Quinta do Pinheiro, Algarve

Into the grove

It’s becoming increasingly difficult to find somewhere off the beaten track in Portugal’s popular Algarve region (writes Ivan Carvalho). But Quinta do Pinheiro, a converted 19th-century farmstead, is a good example. Located near the Ria Formosa Park and its sandy dunes, this property is made up of five terracotta-tiled cottages.

Lisbon-born architect Frederico Valsassina preserved key features of the buildings, including the prominent Algarvian chimneys, and used traditional local materials such as cane strips on the ceiling to create cosy, rustic living quarters. Views over vineyards and avocado groves await those who venture out in search of beaches and local birdlife, while a large water-storage tank once used by farmhands now serves as the pool.

Every cottage comes equipped with a kitchen but the restaurant Noélia, a Monocle favourite, is a short drive away should you have a hankering for superb seafood.
quintapinheiro.com


The Stack: ‘Courtship: For The Love of Tennis’

Supreme courts

Is tennis the most glamorous sport (asks Rory Jones)? Vogue writer and longtime tennis fan Laura Bailey certainly thinks so and she sets out to prove it in Courtship: For the Love of Tennis, published by New York-based Rizzoli. Featuring photos by Maltese-British filmmaker Mark Arrigo, Courtship serves up the photographic splendour of some of the world’s most desirable courts, from the white-lined grass lawns in Positano to the handsome terracotta-clay arenas in the Swiss village of Grindelwald. It’s the kind of book that will have you reaching for a racquet this summer. Now the ball’s in your court. 
rizzoliusa.com

If you’re hungry for an extra serving of Monocle, subscribe today and support our independent journalism. Have a super Sunday.


The Monocle Weekend Edition – Sunday 4 May 2025

Monocle

The high table

This week we’re sitting down to some fulsome Gallic fare in Helsinki and an airy Austrian soufflé courtesy of Monocle’s Swiss chef and recipe writer. We’ll also meet a Bangkok-based Italian architect at the city’s bustling street-food markets and bed down in a revamped Swiss hospitality stalwart in the Bernese Oberland. Plus: we toast the Australian aperitifs spicing up the alcohol-free market. Getting us under way is our editorial director, Tyler Brûlé.


The Faster Lane

Want to unsubscribe from common sense? There’s an email for that

By Tyler Brûlé
<em>By Tyler Brûlé</em>

I was about to wish you a “good morning” but stopped for sensitivity reasons. I then decided “happy Sunday” might be better but, for sensitivity reasons, I held back. “Sunny greetings” seemed like a good idea too but, for reasons of sensitivity, this wasn’t appropriate either. So here we are at a feelings stand-off because just when we thought it was safe to venture back out into the world and say what you want, we’re being bombarded with the most perverse marketing nonsense to ever be deployed by a send button.

To be fair, this is not a global phenomenon (thank heavens!) but something that has taken hold in the sensitivity departments of companies up and down the UK. If you’re not up to speed on this new form of e-blast, it’s meant to make the recipient feel like their personal history is at the core of a fragrance, fashion or hospitality company’s every concern as you’re asked to opt out of correspondence for Mother’s Day, Easter, Father’s Day and any other day that is important for sales but might somehow cause offence, bring back bad family episodes and demand a week or two off work. What a lot of insincere, stupid nonsense!

For starters, if you’re a brand that is so concerned about the words “Mother’s Day” causing offence, then why bring it up in the first place? If you don’t want to encourage your customers to buy something for their mum then get your clever marketing team to cook up a better idea to flog your new scent or sell your discounted suites – and don’t send out an email that might already cause extreme pain by mentioning “mother” as a starter. Second, what does it say about your marketing department and brand in general when you send out something so half-baked and kneejerk? I received such a drippy email from a company I like(d) very much but I’m now wondering: who on earth is running the show over there? Do they really think that they’re going to win loyalty with such correspondence? And third, where do you draw the line? Do you stop at “good morning” because some customers might have woken up with extreme diarrhea at 07.00 and are forever traumatised because they narrowly missed the toilet bowl? Should a company stop sending email correspondence after sundown because some people might be scared of the dark? And what about seriously offensive words such as “wishing” or “kindest” in a sign off? I might be in therapy because not all of my wishes have so far come true and people haven’t always been at their kindest over the past five decades. 

That managers and business owners allow this behaviour to pass, and even flourish, is at the core of the ongoing collapse of common sense and the erosion of resilience. At a time when companies should be concerned with their bottom line and embracing as many customers as possible, the idea that there are sensitivity gains to be made by attempting to be a “feeling brand” is most offensive. We have been through a solid six to seven years of this type of behaviour and it’s not working. UK retail is in crisis and brands are presenting seemingly perfect worlds in their campaigns that are completely removed from the reality of demographic data – they need to get back to running customer-service training programmes that attract talent and retain passionate employees. They must park their politics and focus on selling better products and creating environments where people feel good and want to consume.

So far, I’ve not received any of these opt-out-of-daily-life emails from Sweden, France, Switzerland or the US. Hopefully this is one of those British curiosities that remains on the islands. Wishing you the sunniest, happiest, motherly week ahead.


House News: Monocle x Visit Portugal

The Monocle spring market in London with Visit Portugal

Monocle invites you to our spring market with the support of Visit Portugal. Join us in Midori House’s courtyard to celebrate the diverse gastronomy, culture and design Portugal has to offer. Browse Portuguese guest brands including Claus Porto, La Paz, Util, Torres Novas, A Vida Portuguesa and the latest seasonal collections from The Monocle Shop and Trunk. Expect great Portuguese coffee, pastéis de nata, afternoon port tonics and delicious bites.

No ticket required.

Saturday 10 May, 10.00 – 18.00
Midori House, 1 Dorset Street, London


Eating out: Bouchon Carême, Helsinki

From Lyon with love 

Since establishing the now-shuttered Chez Dominique in 1998, chef Hans Välimäki has been the flag bearer of French cuisine in Finland (writes Petri Burtsoff). “Lyon is the cradle of French gastronomy,” says Välimäki. “Its rich dishes are rooted in the region’s agrarian past and incredible fresh produce.” Bouchon Carême is Välimäki’s newest opening, offering cognac-flambéed duck liver, roasted bone marrow and snails gratinated in parsley and garlic butter.

The dark-green hues, ample use of natural wood and soft lighting lend the restaurant a certain warmth – an ode to the unpretentious bouchon (traditional Lyonnais restaurant). Set in a charming art-nouveau building dating back to 1900, Bouchon Carême’s large windows offer great views of Helsinki’s busiest commercial streets.
bouchoncareme.fi

For more hospitality roundups and top tables, pick up a copy of Monocle’s May issue on newsstands now.


 

Pullman Hotels & Resorts  MONOCLE

Unlock new ideas with Pullman Voices

Pullman Voices, Monocle Radio’s new series in collaboration with Pullman Hotels & Resorts, is a lively meeting point for bold ideas and global perspectives. Recorded in studios around the world, each of the 12 episode sparks a dynamic conversation with a cultural pioneer, business leader or creative visionary. Tune in and be part of an exchange where ideas connect and innovation ignites.

This programme is also available on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.


SUNDAY ROAST: Stefano Rabolli Pansera

Suit and Thai 

Bangkok-based architect Stefano Rabolli Pansera is the former director of Hauser & Wirth in St Moritz and currently directs the Bangkok Kunsthalle, a multidisciplinary art space in the Thai capital’s Chinatown district (writes Maria Papakleanthous). Here, Pansera tells us where he finds his fix of duck-noodle soup, why he sleeps with his curtains open and how smart tailoring keeps things simple.

Where do we find you this weekend?
People-watching at the Kunsthalle while sipping coffee.
  
Ideal start to a Sunday? Gentle start or a jolt?
I sleep with the curtains open, so I wake up with the sun every morning.

What’s for breakfast?
All that my Italian DNA craves is a double espresso. 

Lunch in or out?
Bangkok has an extraordinary street-food scene. My favourite is an amazing duck-noodle soup that I get from a stall at the corner of the Kunsthalle in Chinatown. 

Walk the dog or downward dog?
I walk around Chinatown and have conversations with my Thai teacher Khun Airada Coker, who educates me on everything from the language to the culture. 

A Sunday soundtrack?
I love traditional Thai background music. It features a wonderful instrumental performance that’s not distracting to listen to. 

Sunday culture must? 
Watching films at the Kunsthalle’s cinema. We recently showed a special series of screenings including Chinatown by Roman Polanski and Big Trouble in Little China starring Kurt Russell. Sampeng (The Chinatown Montage), filmed in 1982 by Thai director Surapong Pinijkhar, is also incredibly special to me. 

News or not?
Not. The benefit of living in Bangkok is that life here feels as though I am on another planet. Sometimes there is no news and that, in itself, is good news. 

Sunday evening routine?
You’ll find me at my favourite bar, Ku Bar. Everything is so carefully selected there, from the atmosphere to the art and music.
 
Do you lay out an outfit for Monday?
No need for that. I wear the same outfit every day: a bespoke double-breasted black suit by Milan-based tailor Caraceni paired with a sleek black tie.


Recipe: Ralph Schelling

‘Salzburger nockerl’

This sweet soufflé is Monocle chef and recipe writer Ralph Schelling’s reinterpretation of the version that he would make when working in a Salzburg restaurant.

Serves 4 

Ingredients
4 egg yolks
4 tbsps powdered sugar
Zest of lemon
Pulp of 1 vanilla pod
4 heaped tbsps quark
4 egg whites
4 tbsps flour
250g wild-berry mix
Powdered sugar for sprinkling

Method

1
Preheat the oven to 200C.

2
Mix the egg yolks with the powdered sugar, lemon zest, vanilla and quark until creamy. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until they’re semi-stiff and then carefully fold into the first mixture, adding the flour bit by bit.

3
Cover a porcelain dish or tray with the berries and spread the egg mixture over it so that it takes the shape of soft peaks.

4
Bake for around 10 minutes.

5
Remove from the oven, sprinkle with a little powdered sugar and serve warm.
ralphschelling.com


Sponsored by Pullman Hotels & Resorts


Weekend plans? Grand Hotel Belvédère, Wengen

High and mighty

Life moved at a slower pace in the high reaches of Switzerland until the country’s railway line brought skiers to the Bernese Oberland (writes Florian Siebeck). A golden age of Alpine hospitality ignited and majestic hotels such as the Grand Hotel Belvédère in Wengen soon crowned the mountaintops.

French hospitality brand Beaumier acquired the sleepy belle-époque gem in 2022 alongside its sister property next door, bringing new momentum to the small Alpine village. “We’ve spent a great deal of time undoing 120 years of so-called improvements to uncover the buildings’ original splendour,” says the hotel’s general manager, Lorenz Maurer.

Columns smothered under coats of paint were sandblasted to their natural timber, chandeliers journeyed to the vale for a dazzling revival and original frescoes were brought back to life. As of next week, guests will be able to ascend above the valley’s bustle into the Grand Hotel Belvédère’s tranquil world once more. 
beaumier.com


BOTTOMs UP: Non

Getting fizzy with it

Melbourne-based aperitifs brand Non was founded in 2017 by Aaron Trotman, who was thirsty for still and sparkling wine alternatives that didn’t leave a disappointing taste in the mouth (writes Valentina Venelli).

Non focuses on using natural ingredients including cherries, chamomile and yuzu, combined with the juice of unripe grapes and spices such as cinnamon, pink peppercorn and garam masala. A team of food scientists and winemakers balance these punchy notes to create delicate flavour profiles that will have you saying “Non” to your traditional tipple. 
non.world

Thirsty for more? Subscribe today and support our independent journalism. Have a super Sunday.


Monocle Cart

You currently have no items in your cart.
  • Subtotal:
  • Shipping:
  • Total:
Checkout

Shipping will be calculated at checkout.

Shipping to the USA? Due to import regulations, we are currently unable to ship orders valued over USD 800 to addresses in the United States.

Not ready to checkout? Continue Shopping